I have a 2006 4X4 that has some tire wear on the inside of both front tires. The shop today said it needs tie rods and alignment. In addition they told me that they are replacing fronts hubs on these trucks at 55-60,000 miles. I have no indication that there is a hub problem that I am aware of... What do you guys think ?
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Front Hubs
- Thread starter JNixon
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If your part number for the front hub is BCA 515101or Timken BA590032 we might be able to help if you need a great price.....
But before you put them on... you might consider greasing them with some synthetic grease through the ABS sensor hole. . You've got to remove the caliper, and rotor to get to ABS sensor but we've had the ones on one of my trucks apart and you can get a good coating of grease into the hub through this port... .
We've seen them fail usually after 80K miles...
But before you put them on... you might consider greasing them with some synthetic grease through the ABS sensor hole. . You've got to remove the caliper, and rotor to get to ABS sensor but we've had the ones on one of my trucks apart and you can get a good coating of grease into the hub through this port... .
We've seen them fail usually after 80K miles...
RBridenbaugh
TDR MEMBER
If your hubs are going, you should be able to hear them as you load them up going around a corner. If they are really bad, then you will hear them going straight. Worth a shot of grease in the sensor hole to see if the noise goes away. Certainly would beat trying to take them off, if they are rusted on. Mine were making noise by 140k. Found some Timken hubs for ~$200 each on the net.
I had a tie rod outer end fail at 140k, don't know if the previous owner had greased them every 3k or not. They are easy to replace, if you have a good puller. ~$35 each.
Since I'm going to replace the hubs and the ball joints are sloppy, I waited until the Carli lowers came out, the uppers and lowers arrived last week. Pricey at ~ $800 for a set of upper and lowers for both wheels, but super quality, vs. ~$70 each for generic ball joints that will fail again, or worse that they are notchy, as others have reported after installing Moog ball joints.
While I'm in that deep, the front axle u-joints on my 4x4 are going to be replaced as well. ~$60 each for Neapco (for comparison ~$80 each for Spicer and Precision were ~$40 ea).
I've been spraying everything with penetrating oil for a week now, so it remains to be seen whether the rotors and hubs will come right off or be the pain that others have reported in this forum.
For $1,900 you get regular parts and the dealer has to potentially deal with getting a rusted rotor off, as well as a rusted hub. Then some time in the future you will have to pay them to do it again, to do the front axle u-joints.
Alternately, you could get some high quality parts and buy yourself some nice tools for less than than amount, if you did it yourself. Even if you went with cheap parts and rented the tools, at least you could coat everything with a good anti-seize, so it would be easier next time.
I had a tie rod outer end fail at 140k, don't know if the previous owner had greased them every 3k or not. They are easy to replace, if you have a good puller. ~$35 each.
Since I'm going to replace the hubs and the ball joints are sloppy, I waited until the Carli lowers came out, the uppers and lowers arrived last week. Pricey at ~ $800 for a set of upper and lowers for both wheels, but super quality, vs. ~$70 each for generic ball joints that will fail again, or worse that they are notchy, as others have reported after installing Moog ball joints.
While I'm in that deep, the front axle u-joints on my 4x4 are going to be replaced as well. ~$60 each for Neapco (for comparison ~$80 each for Spicer and Precision were ~$40 ea).
I've been spraying everything with penetrating oil for a week now, so it remains to be seen whether the rotors and hubs will come right off or be the pain that others have reported in this forum.
For $1,900 you get regular parts and the dealer has to potentially deal with getting a rusted rotor off, as well as a rusted hub. Then some time in the future you will have to pay them to do it again, to do the front axle u-joints.
Alternately, you could get some high quality parts and buy yourself some nice tools for less than than amount, if you did it yourself. Even if you went with cheap parts and rented the tools, at least you could coat everything with a good anti-seize, so it would be easier next time.
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Jim, how does the grease affect the sensor operation? I would think packing the hub would fill the spaces between the tone wheel teeth and cause ABS problems. Does the amount of grease seem to matter?
The sensor is a hall effect type sensor... it can't see the grease. . and there's grease there anyway from the slinging action (centrifugal force) from when the bearings were packed at the factory...
I've had several apart, cleaned them, repacked them and pressed them back together...
It's the same principle as 2 bearings in one unit that's used in some of the air compressors we build... we press them apart, clean, re-grease and press back together...
All I'm suggesting that adding some, seems to add to what's there... . and from our experience on one of our trucks, makes the hubs last longer... our 04 now has 300K miles using this process... .
Hope this helps...
BTW - I'd like to add that on some class 8 trucks with ABS we see the drum with a 1/2" layer of oil and dirt, that's a lot like a grease from a leaking hub seal, and the ABS is still working with error codes... we've taken at least a quart of this stuff out of drums during the cleaning process... . real nasty. .
I've had several apart, cleaned them, repacked them and pressed them back together...
It's the same principle as 2 bearings in one unit that's used in some of the air compressors we build... we press them apart, clean, re-grease and press back together...
All I'm suggesting that adding some, seems to add to what's there... . and from our experience on one of our trucks, makes the hubs last longer... our 04 now has 300K miles using this process... .
Hope this helps...
BTW - I'd like to add that on some class 8 trucks with ABS we see the drum with a 1/2" layer of oil and dirt, that's a lot like a grease from a leaking hub seal, and the ABS is still working with error codes... we've taken at least a quart of this stuff out of drums during the cleaning process... . real nasty. .
My dad has close to 300k on his 99 on the original units... we added regular wheel bearing grease around 90k (not even synthetic).
One thing I will note... these unit bearings can fail two ways: the bearing rollers fail or the bearing race eats into the spindle. The first is obviously bad, while the second only causes excessive play.
I had one of my unit bearings fail on my 99... the actual bearing rollers were good, but the inner race had worn into the spindle and that was causing nearly a 1/2-inch of play at the top/bottom of the wheel.
One thing I will note... these unit bearings can fail two ways: the bearing rollers fail or the bearing race eats into the spindle. The first is obviously bad, while the second only causes excessive play.
I had one of my unit bearings fail on my 99... the actual bearing rollers were good, but the inner race had worn into the spindle and that was causing nearly a 1/2-inch of play at the top/bottom of the wheel.
Your tire wear is an indication of a toe out condition, it could just need an alignment but if the tie rod ends are worn then you can't do just an alignment. If your concerned about what they told you I would get a second opinion.
As for the bearing/hub assemblies they should be replaced when needed and not at a blanket 55-60K otherwise its a waste of money. In our shop I have seen those hubs go as little as 25K to well over 100K and believe it's life span has to do with the initial manufacture and assembly of the hub at the time.
Thats a neat idea but just to clarify on this 04 of yours, is this one where you have pressed it apart, cleaned and repacked or one that has only received some added grease through the ABS port during its 300K?
rbattelle
TDR MEMBER
There's an excellent chance this is true, if the shop has worked on these trucks before.
Ryan
Matt... I've had several issues... and sometimes my thoughts run together... I've had either the hub off, pressed apart on either the 04 or the 05, replaced one of the hubs on one of these trucks as well as worked on my BIL's 04 and my son's 04. 5...
But after reading on this sight about pulling the ABS sensor and adding some grease, we've been doing that each time we have the rotor off for brake pads... I also had one apart and the hub pulled apart as we tried to remove it from the truck... we finally got it down, washed cleaned, greased, pressed back together and back on the truck...
The problem here is that as I get older, some of this runs together and I have an employee who does most of this work... of the 4 trucks listed, my 04 has 300K miles, my 05 has 120K miles, my BIL must have 250K or so by now... he's retired and just goes, we seem 3-4 times a year as he needs help and my sons 04. 5 has only 60K or so... . Than there's the 08, and some other stuff...
But after reading on this sight about pulling the ABS sensor and adding some grease, we've been doing that each time we have the rotor off for brake pads... I also had one apart and the hub pulled apart as we tried to remove it from the truck... we finally got it down, washed cleaned, greased, pressed back together and back on the truck...
The problem here is that as I get older, some of this runs together and I have an employee who does most of this work... of the 4 trucks listed, my 04 has 300K miles, my 05 has 120K miles, my BIL must have 250K or so by now... he's retired and just goes, we seem 3-4 times a year as he needs help and my sons 04. 5 has only 60K or so... . Than there's the 08, and some other stuff...
I have a little play in the passenger side front tire but the drivers side is still tight.
Would applying grease trough the ABS sensor hole possibly tighten up the passenger side hub.
Les Schwab wanted $800+ to replace both OEM hubs and bearings with another set of sealed bearings.
Thinking of going to a free spin with replaceable bearings
Would applying grease trough the ABS sensor hole possibly tighten up the passenger side hub.
Les Schwab wanted $800+ to replace both OEM hubs and bearings with another set of sealed bearings.
Thinking of going to a free spin with replaceable bearings
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Issue 128 – Digital Version
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FREE!
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Renew
Subscribe
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Back Issues
Subscription Status
Address Change Form
Buyer's Guides
Ram Diagnostic Trouble Codes
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