Fuel additives

[Moab4444]

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/76.../177728-lubricity-additive-study-results.html
I would disagree that additives are pretty much all the same. After reading this, I only use Opti_Lube XPD. And be very careful about others that you use. Some can actually make the lubricity worse.

What is interesting in the report is that Power Service does meet the minimum for the scar test. I use Opti products year round and have not had any help issues when I go to family ranch in northern Wyoming.

 

[Zach6.7CTD]

For what it's worth. I picked up a bottle of Lucas anti gel and will use that this winter. I've never come across a bad product made by Lucas so we will see how their anti gel works as well.

 

[Gumby79]

With my 1st gen @350k + (odo quit at 289k) Power Service gray bottle every tank1 oz/ 3ga. Everyone who knows diesels has commented on how unusually quite my truck is .Skip 3 tanks and she sounds like every other stock Cummins. The only service that my fuel systom has had done was the recalled IP and filters The previous owners (2) used PS and gave me the advice/ warnings that my pump was a 1500ppm sulfur design rig . I had my doubts about the effectiveness of an additive. So I tested it . And every time the 3rd tank is noticeably noiser.
As to cold starts and jelly in Montana the Holiday Fuel in Helena, Mt has a sing posted with the dates that have what levle of anti gel (3 grades +summer)
Only time it didnt start wasn't fuel related. New bat., alt , reg, belt , tensioner and no place to plug in -23F over night (-15 low -12 high for the week prior with out use) couldn't spill fast enough to fire. 2 days later when it warmed to -10 (next opportunity) she fired without a jump on the first try she starts down to -18 with out complant and the lowest was -30°f +wind chill pluged in. The cold duse more than jell the fule. It also thickens the oil and reducees the capacity of the bat. This is why Cummins recamends plug in at 0 and requires it at -20f, the %increase oil pump load + %battery capacity reduction + 250A grid heaters = no start.
Did the plug in temps change for the 2nd gens with there twin batteries? My 3rd winter in Montana and I bought my first bottle of PS wight as I realized I hafe way home that I had been running UT unwinterized fuel when I cault up to the snow storm so I stoped for fuel and a bottle. The wight /winter said treats 250above -something(dont remember) and 125 below that point. So PS seems to think that double dosingthe lube and ctane is safe

 

[Killgore]

Okay, I did a pretty extensive internet search and made several phone calls to wholesalers. Bio-diesel in Alabama is about like hen's teeth, scarce. I can guess it's probably related to having refiners sitting at our backdoor and no mandates. My home state is noted for getting bowed up in the neck at any hint of federal dictates; and, before my brothers call me out, I've lived here fifty years. Shucks, try and get a state tax break for installing solar, again hen's teeth.

As I mulled all of this over and noted what some of you have said concerning the prevalence of bio-diesel where you live, it dawned on me the necessity for carrying spare fuel filters, (which I do), when traveling out of this area. My precious relic is approaching 300K and no doubt has crud from bumper to bumper when it comes to the fuel lines, etc. It might not be the best thing if the bio gave it a good cleaning when I was in the middle of nowhere.

Incidentally, please don't interpret my comments as having a bias for or against any additive. I use them on a regular basis and have argued numerous times on their supposed benefit as vigorously as when I defied my mother as a youth when she attempted to administer a dose of some miracle elixir. I survived, and these engines for the most part, will survive also.

- Ed

 

[ssanders60]

I too thought that B20 would have provided lubrication sufficiently for the delivery to the engine. I could buy it cheaper here in
Jacksonville, also I know that soon all diesel fuel will be B05 or B20, Raceway has backed off B20 and is now B05. I will have to get
rid of my truck because my fuel delivery system will not handle it. I have been fighting this for 3 or 4 years and it makes no difference
whether it's winter or summer. If the problem is not lubrication, then it is something else, unknown, so I will stick with Chevron or Shell. The reason I used B20 for so long was that I didn't see the small white patch on the pump stating B-20..

 

[AH64ID]

The few times I have ran B20 my truck has liked it. Mileage doesn't change, but it's quieter and smoother.

 

[JR]

I will have to get
rid of my truck because my fuel delivery system will not handle it

I've only ran B20 once or twice (that I'm aware of), what issues are you having? Cummins says 02 and up are approved for B20, i imagine the only issue with earlier engines prior would be rubber fuel lines. When switching to B20 at regular intervals it is recommended to change fuel filters at half the normal service interval for two changes, then standard intervals after. This due to the high solvency of bio.

 

[ssanders60]

The difference may be that my truck is a 3rd generation truck as opposed to the later models that are adjusted to
use the Bio mix. This problem with my truck using B20 has been going on for years until last year I noticed the very
small B20 sticker on the pump and changed over to Shell or Chevon. I don't know of any stations in Waycross, Ga. that sells
B20, I never have a problem with any of them.

 

[fest3er]

... I firmly believe the winter anti-gel is a requirement in colder climates. ...

Heh. It can be required in not-so-cold climates, like here in western Virg. If it drops to around 0 here and I have a tank of fuel from November, the fuel *will* gel within two blocks of the house.

Of late, I've been using 8 oz. of Stanadyne's Performance Formula fuel treatment plus 8 oz. of pure 2-ethylhexyl nitrate in each tank of fuel. The Stanadyne handles lubricity, anti-gel and cetane boost (and other things), and the 2-eh nitrate boosts cetane even more; the extra cetane gives me 1-2 more MPG running at 75 MPH. Will soon see how mileage changes with winter fuel.

 

[Newsa]

Heh. It can be required in not-so-cold climates, like here in western Virg. If it drops to around 0 here and I have a tank of fuel from November, the fuel *will* gel within two blocks of the house.

Of late, I've been using 8 oz. of Stanadyne's Performance Formula fuel treatment plus 8 oz. of pure 2-ethylhexyl nitrate in each tank of fuel. The Stanadyne handles lubricity, anti-gel and cetane boost (and other things), and the 2-eh nitrate boosts cetane even more; the extra cetane gives me 1-2 more MPG running at 75 MPH. Will soon see how mileage changes with winter fuel.

Just so people know.... There are 2 Stanadyne performance formulas. The red label is only for warm weather. The more popular blue label can be used in all climates and has antigel.

 

[Killgore]

So Neal, what's the deal on ethylhexyl nitrate? Please share some info.

- Ed

 

[Newsa]

One of the main Cetane Improver additives manufactured today is 2-ethylhexyl nitrate (CAS n°: 27247-96-7) which starts to decompose at 130 °C. 2-ethylhexyl nitrate is the result of the reaction of 2-ethylhexanol and nitric acid.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cetane_Improver?wprov=sfla1

 

[Killgore]

How would it be purchased in a pure state? I see that it is marketed as a cetane improver and there are several formulators listed. Testing indicates no adverse effects from it's use, and the obvious advantages would include an increase in MPG. I think I have seen it listed on MSDS' of numerous additive manufacturers in relatively small percentages.

 

[Newsa]

Ethyl hexyl nitrate is a hydrocarbon chain with 8 carbons like octane. But with a nitrate functional group.

Home-made bomb makers mix diesel (A source of (wide mix of refined hydrocarbon with similar density/weight ) with fertilizer (A crude source of nitrates) to make a very combustible and powerful explosive.

The nitrate functional group sticking off of the ethyl hexyl nitrate helps get the combustion process going. The resonance of the electrons in the nitrogen oxygen bond also provide a bit of additional oxygen that is present in the fuel to help fully combust.

 

[Newsa]

Any nitrogenated hydrocarbon would work as a cetane improver as long as the carbon chain is 8 oxygen or fewer. Ethyl Hexyl nitrate is just easily manufactured. Doesn't need to be pure. But I can see it advertised as 99%.

 

[Killgore]

I have never used a cetane improver/booster although I am aware that oil companies are not required to post cetane ratings on the pump unlike gasoline pumps that have the octane rating posted. I can certainly see where a product such as this has it's place in the market. I'm also aware that fuel additives that contain lubricity enhancers, detergents, anti-gel compounds, and a pinch of 2-EHC probably don't have enough to do an adequate job and I can see where Neal is coming from. If I could squeeze a mile or two per gallon out my truck the math would indicate that I should have been using this stuff years ago.

 

[AH64ID]

An increase in Cetane causes a decrease in BTU’s. It also changes the way fuel ignites and I’ve heard it make some crazy knocks on 3rd gens. I think it has to do with the pilot timing. I’ve also seen it decrease mileage, which is the opposite of the claims....but lower BTU’s means more fuel.

I generally avoid anything with a Cetane boost, but it does have a few good uses. It helps improve low temperature, load and rpm combustion, as well as help with cold starting. I usually add a little for elk hunting each year when I go 1-2 weeks on dirt roads and below 25 mph for hundreds of miles and it can be quite cold...otherwise I don’t use it.

The difference may be that my truck is a 3rd generation truck as opposed to the later models that are adjusted to
use the Bio mix. This problem with my truck using B20 has been going on for years until last year I noticed the very
small B20 sticker on the pump and changed over to Shell or Chevon. I don't know of any stations in Waycross, Ga. that sells
B20, I never have a problem with any of them.

All 3rd gens are B20 compatible, in terms of tuning, from the factory. The “B20” kit provides another f/w sep, but it does nothing to the motor or tuning.

 

[Stab]

If anyone is serious about what & if additives improve or damage fuel systems, talk to a fuel injection shop! I have been involved with several over the years...40 and I use Stanadyn Performace (Blue) for cold weather. I put a full 16oz bottle in my 50 gallon aux tank every fill up in the winter & every other in the summer. Stanadyn was #1 40 yrs ago & it still is today. Power Service is ok but, just a tad harsh compared to Stanadyn. TALK TO A FUEL SHOP! I use PS Bio Kleen if fuel is setting for a period of time in metal tanks.

 

[Newsa]

The lubricity and cleaning properties are the main reason I use them. So I would not use ethylhexyl nitrate in isolation. Not because it will hurt anything. But because it doesn't clean or lubricate. However, it is an interesting suggestion that cetane booster can help the DPF reach passive regen temps especially since the cetane numbers of fuel at the pump can vary widely.

I agree stanadyne is excellent at cleaning

Edit: Florida Dept of Agriculture & consumer protections checks gasoline pumps randomly & regularly. They check to insure each pump is pumping the correct volume, that pumps have no evidence of card reader tampering, and that the fuel meets standards.

Diesel is never checked to my knowledge

 

[Metalhead1970]

I spent 5 years tow hauling in my 01 Dodge and found standyne to work really well against gelling etc but the trucking companies ie semi that I've worked for use absolutely nothing stating that the additives already in the fuel are more than enough to conteract modern problems with the exception of high bio blends. With bio blends a good biocide should accompany each tankfull or your filters can quickly pay the price