Fuel filter change

[cmills]

I need to change the fuel filters and when I started looking closely at the engine mounted one, it looks like it is going to be tough to get to. Is there any tips on changing this before I start?

Thanks

 

[Bob4x4]

The 13/14 engine mounted filter is a top load type.As easy as they get

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Use a 1-1/8" six point socket and a ratchet to unscrew the top, after brushing and spray cleaning the area to remove dirt. Easiest fuel filter change I ever did.

 

[gsbrockman]

Is there any tips on changing this before I start?

First of all.....go to Lowes, Home Depot, Ace, etc. and purchase about 4 or 5 feet of 3/8" ID vinyl tubing.

I began at the water separator at the rear of the truck. I located the water in fuel sensor connector and disconnected it (generally it is "clipped" / fastened to the frame near the separator). Cut a long enough section of vinyl tubing that will easily droop down into a drain pain or old milk jug or the like. I then opened the drain valve and I used a metal band-style oil filter wrench to loosen the separator, turning it about two or three complete turns. If you do this, you'll ensure that your entire right arm and armpit will not be ultimately soaked in #2 diesel fuel. I then removed the WIF sensor. I'm not sure what size wrench is technically required to remove it; I know a 30 mm was too small and I was in a pinch and gently removed it with a pair of channel lock pliers.
Here's a pic of the WIF sensor removed.
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Water separator o-ring assortment. The larger one is for the base at the head. The smaller one is replaced at the WIF sensor.
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New water separator...note how it was dropped at some point in time as the base where the WIF attaches is crooked. The WIF screwed in with zero problems. I coated the O-rings with a small amount of diesel fuel.
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I then replaced the underhood fuel filter. You'll need a 1 & 1/8" six point socket, and a selection of short extension and a long extension.....and a universal swivel joint helps. If this is the first canister fuel filter change, be prepared for it to be super tight....just like the factory oil filter. I ended up using a section of pipe to break the lid loose on my '13 and my '14. I also used a short piece of garden hose that slipped over the clear drain hose on the underhood fuel filter. I opened up the drain and let it drain into a 1 gallon jug. Remove the cap, remove the old filter, replace the new filter, coat the new o-ring with engine oil, and snug down the cap. Now's the perfect time to replace that section of short drain hose with a longer section so those periodic drainings won't get #2 diesel all over your front axle.

Pic of old fuel filter.....looks hardly used compared to an 8000 mile interval on my previous 2007.5 RAM 3500 Megacab. The EVIC said I was at 18% remaining. I reset the fuel filter life to 100%.
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For priming, I went back to the water separator and opened the drain valve until fuel was present. I closed the rear drain valve. I cycled the ignition key on four times. It did start on the 4th cycle. As always, I checked for leaks and had my wonderful wife take it for a short drive.

 

[gsbrockman]

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...tomy-of-a-MOPAR-Fuel-Separator-p-n-68197867AA

One can easily understand why the underhood filter looks so good.....the rear separator does most of the filtering. These 2013 & up trucks have superior OEM filtering abilities IMO.

 

[Cummins12V98]

That pre filter is really doing a good job! I have never seen a fuel filter come out so clean!

 

[jus2shy]

Yep, mine was equally clean when I removed the engine filter.

OP, as for getting at the engine filter, I highly recommend getting some extensions and possibly a U-joint. This makes it much easier to get at that top bolt as that cap is extremely tight from the factory. I thought I was going to strip the lid off at first when I did my first fuel filter change. The chassis filter is the real pain in the butt. Hard to work your arms above the drive shaft and that too tends to be on there tight. Also, I took the liberty of removing the vinyl tube off of my engine filter and replacing it with a 3' section of hose so that I have an easier time draining into a clean container so I can pour the fuel back into the tank if it looks clean.

 

[mpaulson]

When you put the new o-ring on the engine housing, make sure you have it all the way down where it is supposed to be. I didn't have it seated properly the first time and the lid tightened up, or so I thought, and it leak all over when I started it up! Lesson learned.

 

[cmills]

Thanks guys, I'm going to get it done in the next few days.

 

[Chopperno1]

Remember to close both drain valves before trying to start the engine. I am guilty of forgetting to close the valve on the engine mounted filter and believe me it made a big mess.

 

[jus2shy]

oh yeah, I followed the manual and keyed it up only 4 times and attempted to start... started panicking when it didn't start 2 times in a row. Try keying it up like 16 or 20 times. Then you should be good to start.

 

[Silver Goose]

Very good write up, enjoyed the photos and the advise. Being a new owner all information is important.

Thank again

 

[Boomer II]

Where is everybody buying their filters, I almost fainted when I started pricing them.

 

[gsbrockman]

Where is everybody buying their filters, I almost fainted when I started pricing them.

You might be able to find the Parker / Racor frame mounted fuel filter priced a little better :

http://www.parker.com/literature/Racor/Racor_Fuel_Filtration_-_PFF54529_-_RSL0119.pdf

Locate a Parker Store :

http://www.parker.com/portal/site/P...extfmt=EN&from=parkerstore&citype=ParkerStore

 

[JLandry]

Where is everybody buying their filters, I almost fainted when I started pricing them.

I bought a set at a deep discount off list from MoparPartsAmerica, a small Chrysler dealership in Newberg, OR who sells parts online. Been buying from these guys for a decade.

Additional good sources are Geno's and eBay.

But no matter where you buy them, they're definitely not inexpensive.

John L.

 

[Boomer II]

Thanks for the info guys.

 

[MattandLana]

thanks gsbrockman for the great post!

 

[moparnut72]

I work in a parts store and if you think these are expensive, you ought to see what some of the ford filters cost.
Kk

 

[Chopperno1]

I was able to find the Racor replacements for $39.99.
https://warehousetwo.com/wm/266/1714/PFF54529

 

[RikDavis]

Finally a warm day so I decided to change the filters. It went pretty much as described. I opened the rear water drain , I did not loosen the seperator while on the vehicle and I did get a small fuel bath when I loosened the filter. Next time I will loosen the deperator or filter so some air will get in and that should avoid that. Nothing was overly tightened.

Getting the front filter open was a little tougher but once it is loosened the change is easy.

I am a little confused on the starting/priming procedure. On my 99 I could bump the key and the pump fuel pump would run. On the 13 (tradesman has a key) bumping the key makes the starter run until you shut the key off. After 2 tries and no start I tried just moving the key to on waiting a bit and doing it again. After doing that 3 times it started right up.

The evic reset by just holding the reset button a couple seconds. I was showing 7% left at 11300 miles, mostly towing a light 5000 lb trailer. I was hoping for a little more mileage
than that It reset to 100% but I just checked it again after moving around the driveway, 0 miles and it says 99%. Sure wish I knew what it measures.
Next time will go much faster.