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Fuel filter cover removal

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My fuel filter cover will not budge and now the top plastic hex nut is rounded.#@$%!

I already ordered a new cover. I am looking for suggestions on how to get this cover off without any chance of broken plastic pieces ending up in the fuel pump.
 
Maybe a strap-wrench around the top body if you can find room enough to move the arm of the wrench. Also a firm piece of flat-stock applied between the nut and three protrusions surrounding the nut. A strong woman--like my wife--could just use her bare hands to loosen it.
 
My 28mm 12 point Kobalt socket fits as tight as OJ's glove around the nut and has left the nut in perfect condition after five filter changes.
 
My fuel filter cover will not budge and now the top plastic hex nut is rounded.#@$%!

I already ordered a new cover. I am looking for suggestions on how to get this cover off without any chance of broken plastic pieces ending up in the fuel pump.
If you have a set of oil filter pliers, I'd try those first.
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My fuel filter cover will not budge and now the top plastic hex nut is rounded.#@$%!

I already ordered a new cover. I am looking for suggestions on how to get this cover off without any chance of broken plastic pieces ending up in the fuel pump.



Take a rat tail file or some blunt metal object, place it on one of the fins. Tap the other end with a hammer just to get it moving.

Drilling into it is a risk. But I think it works like an oil filter that it takes the fresh filtered fuel from the middle. just make sure no plastic pieces get in the center.
 
That's nice but it doesn't help him get the cover off. I 2nd the filter pliers or large Channel Locks. After that I'd get a hold of the Lisle socket that's meant for the job so as not to spoil the new cover.
 
I have the socket from Genos. I've changed filters twice and I tell you its not the best access. You need a long 3/8" drive extension (I use a couple 8 inch ones) with a universal at the socket. The wire harness on the cowl is just plain in the way and thus requires the universal joint to allow just a slight angle of the extensions. Probably if you had a wobble extension that would be enough. (if you just angle the socket you'll round the plastic nuts corners). This allows the ratchet to be above the cowl of the truck. It was only there that I could get the torque required to beak it free while applying counter torque to the ratchet to maintain everything squared up. Take your time and keep the pressure on it for several seconds and it will slowly loosen at first. I was so worried that it was going to break the cap that I bought a spare to keep in the truck. The second time was just as scary as the first, I lubricated the cap threads and O ring with engine oil, and I torqued in accordance with the manual after the first change so it is not just the factory assembly gorilla. The plastic cap just has too much give in it and is not out far enough to be easily accessible. When I service it the next time I'm using the billet cap. It won't flex like the plastic cap does, and I'm sure it won't break! Ken Irwin
 
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Thanks for all the suggestions. Not sure what makes some of them so hard to remove but I think the metal cap would be a better way to go. Maybe the plastic is prone to distorting if it gets too hot. Last July, I had towed my 10k trailer through the Big Horn mountains in over 100 degree heat and I am sure it was plenty hot under the hood. Who knows if that caused it. It may have just been over-tightened to begin with. I did buy the proper low profile socket for next time. I am going to try filter pliers next. Chiseling and then cutting will be my last resort. A few photos I found while researching this problem. This guy ended up removing the whole assembly from the truck to get the cap off. I hope to avoid that!


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Ken,Good idea I would not what to contaminate the inside bowl area at all with chiseling,or cutting...I gather since this is a 2012 the filter has been pulled before,so you might just be looking at a over torque sitiuation,a good indicator of a stripped filter housing assembly.Myself I would probably go for the filter adapter mount being removed from the side of the engine.It would be much easier to remove the damage filter housing cover and replace it.
 
What if you took a socket, filled it with JB weld, placed it on the rounded cap filter head, let set, then remove it with the ratchet? Granted, the cap is toast, and the socket will not be able to be used again, but an idea?

Edit: I found that using a 28mm 6 point socket is the best fit. Yes, it goes on snug, but I have had zero issues using it.
 
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The cap is always tight. Plastic threads are sticky, for lack of a better term. Ever hand tighten a pvc fitting? You need tools to loosen it. Steady force seems to work the best. Be patient.
 
I had the same problem found out if you drain the filter as recommended in the book it comes off easier . I believe it relieves the pressure in side It worked for me
 
You mean....there are grown men that don't already own a 1 1/8" socket? :p

You want a picture of my small collection of 1" drive sockets?

I think the 1 1/8" is in the truck box, as that is what fits the anode in the trailer hot water tank. If I recall mine is a 12 point.

SNOKING
 
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