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Fuel filter cover removal

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And you never know when to let it go. You know more than anybody, even the Trans Engineer. You argue for arguments sake. Time for the ignore button.

Lighten up DUDE can't you tell I was kidding around? Sorry to get you all twisted. Yes those are MY methods and will stick to them since YOU brought it up.
 
I have to get this off my chest....it's Amsoil, no "Z" and no "/".

That's much better. :)

Let me help you with a little history youngin, AMS/OIL as it is now called started out as AMZ/OIL. "PENNZOIL" sued AMZ/OIL and is now AMS/OIL. I will keep calling it AMZ/OIL just like the
Coliseum in Seattle that has been changed to the Key Arena.

BTW my Dad is the original AMZ/OIL dealer in WA State that is how I started using AMZ/OIL back in the 70's.

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Well, it IS Amsoil, go to their website and see, no z no /. I guess you can call it what it WAS.

You probably ought to change your signature...instead of "Ram" it should say "Dodge", since that's what it used to be called.
 
What the hell is going on with this site?????????? It feels just like RV.net with all the nitpicking. I have bragged about this site for years how it's a bunch of guys that are here to share info on something in common and not a bunch of A-HOLES.

It really gets old when someone suggests a different way to do something or calls something a different name gets slammed. I have thick shin but I can tell you and you know who you are you are driving people away from this site.
 
It really gets old when someone suggests a different way to do something

It also gets old when someone is always telling people they're doing it wrong, or frequently implying everything they own, or do (ad nauseum) is the best.


I can admit me being nit picky about spelling is a bit, well, nit picky, but it is a pet peeve of mine to refer to something by something that is isn't, instead of what it is, especially when the correct way is well known. It is akin to some guys I work with.....no matter many times they hear a co-workers name pronounced correctly, they will not pronounce correctly.
 
It also gets old when someone is always telling people they're doing it wrong, or frequently implying everything they own, or do (ad nauseum) is the best.


I can admit me being nit picky about spelling is a bit, well, nit picky, but it is a pet peeve of mine to refer to something by something that is isn't, instead of what it is, especially when the correct way is well known. It is akin to some guys I work with.....no matter many times they hear a co-workers name pronounced correctly, they will not pronounce correctly.

Got this ins the male when I gott homee twoday.

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Just to stir things up....I already have a 6-point 1-1/8, 1/2 drive socket that I used last time and it worked fine.....but I'm going to order the Lisle socket just because.

I'm going to use it to install the fuel filter on my 2015 Dodge Cummins Power Ram 250.
 
(2015 3500 6.7 Limited) This is how you do it. Start boiling two quarts of water. Spray PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench into the cover's seam which is on the outside rim. Saturate a small cloth and dab areas where you cannot spray. Tap the outside rim every 15 deg with a metal tool. Wait 15 min and repeat. Take a small sock, soak it with cold water, ring it out a little, and coil it over the plastic hex nut -- we don't want to soften the nut. Take a tube sock and using chem or insulated gloves (I used rotisserie gloves), soak it with boiling water, ring it out a little, and coil it around the other sock -- we want heat near the outside rim where the o-ring is. Let it sit for 5 min, then remove all socks and repeat. Remove socks. Dry off the hex nut completely. Take a 28mm 6 pt 1/2" drive short socket and seat it on the hex nut. Insert a 3" 1/2" drive extension followed by a 5" 1/2 drive extension and then a 1/2" drive flex handle socket wrench. It is critical that that you use a 28mm SIX-PT socket to avoid rounding off the hex nut!!! It is also critical that you seat the socket properly so that its bottom is flush with the cover!!! For me there was not enough vertical space to make this happen which is why I was forced to use 8" of drive extension and a wrench with a flex (hinged) head -- I was at a 15 deg angle with the wrench starting over the head cover. The cover will come off using this procedure if you are patient.

Reassembly tips:
Clean the area where the o-ring is seated with citrus degreaser and a lint-free towel, and do not leave any residual cleaner. Lubricate the area where the o-ring is seated with clean diesel engine oil. Once seated, liberally apply engine oil to the o-ring. Do not use grease as this could contaminate the fuel system and do not use any other type of oil. Use a torque wrench when securing the cover -- for me it was 22.5 ft-lbs (factory), and the socket does not have to be seated flush with the cover given the limited amount of force needed; however, the wrench must be at a 90 deg angle in order to be accurate. Believe me when I say that when the wrench clicked it was far less torque than I would have used if I did this manually.
 
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The fuel filter cap on my 2012 had been a ***** to remove 3x until..... last time I heated the cap with a hair dryer. Spun right off, easy as a canning jar lid.
 
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