Fuel Gauge Sending Unit

[DavidC]

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[BarryG]

Wow that’s from a few years ago. Still working or at least think so sold the truck to my bil about 2 years ago when I bought the 17 and he probably would have let me know if it was not

 

[KATOOM]

Very cool... Barry do you happen to remember what it was called and where you got it? And how did it connect into the dash gauge? Read correctly too?

 

[DavidC]

Katoom, Barry stated where, how to wire in the link I provided earlier. I clicked the centroid products and they still make it. Kind of a round about way to get info but all I have to work with, sorry.

Dave

 

[KATOOM]

Got it... Thanks.

 

[BarryG]

Katoom
The install was actually quite easy. As far as the wiring you just use the existing sender wires and add a 12volt positive. The sender was much more accurate than the oem. On the oem I could go well over 100 miles before it would move off of full and when the low fuel light would come on supposedly at 1/8 tank I could only put in about 25 gallons. After the install it would come off full at approx 50 miles and when the low fuel light came on I could put in about 31 or 32 gallons so it was definitely better. However when it said empty you better be n your way to the fuel station there was no real reserve to speak of compared to oem
I got it direct from centroid iirc it was like $50 at the time. The probable most important part was getting the right length of sender. I pulled the tank measure the inside best I could. I think I made a comment in that post about perhaps using abit different length but later changed my mind and if I were to do it again I would get the same length. However if it is too short not that big of a deal as it will just show you empty and you will still have fuel left in the tank. Too long and you mAy end up with no reserve whatsoever or worse too long and it won’t fit

For whatever reason I would go through a stock sender about every 45-50 k miles. This one has well over 175 k on it and still going

That all being said a few people who did the conversion had problems with proper operation and I can’t realky speak to what their problems were outside of not reading correctly and were mad at me for giving bad info. All I know for sure is my install went well and worked great. And I certainly can’t speak to different years, tank size or shape or the proper ohm rating for different years. Iirc dodge had changed the ohm spec earlier and later to the 01 model year but do not know when those changes occured

 

[KATOOM]

...and were mad at me for giving bad info.

Thats too bad... Anyone who takes the information on these forums as always correct and accurate need to be taking their vehicles to the dealer for repairs.

But thank you too. Do you happen to remember the length of your sender?

 

[GReed]

There was a thread on DTR some time back concerning capacitance senders. Isspro was going to make a ready made kit for Dodge trucks. I called Isspro and talked to Mike Plasca(sp). He said they did not have enough interest to make up the kit. He said they could make one offs, but they were kind of spendy. That may be the sort of thing Genos could set up or maybe a group buy.

 

[DavidC]

Thats too bad... Anyone who takes the information on these forums as always correct and accurate need to be taking their vehicles to the dealer for repairs.

But thank you too. Do you happen to remember the length of your sender?

14.5"

 

[BillBaker]

Curious about this as well.I purchased this one from Geno's in 17' knowing I'd eventually want to replace my erratic one. If I do a search now I didn't see it at Geno's. A search online says it does fit a 98'. Picture one is what I got from Geno's.. Picture two is from mopar repair connection.

 

[NIsaacs]

This what I got for my '01, fits 2000-2002.

 

[KATOOM]

This is what mine looked like when I just replaced it.

 

[BillBaker]

This is the new unit I have for a 98'. Guess I'll see when I remove the existing.

 

[fest3er]

If it's *for* the '98, it should be OK. The '97 unit fits, but has a completely different variable resistor which doesn't work in the '98. (At least, it didn't work in mine.) My resistor plate was barely worn (unlike the one Katoom pictured). I cleaned it, gently used a pencil erase on it, swapped it into the new module bits, and twerked the arm to swipe about 1mm away from the original path some years ago and all is still well. I didn't even change the sloppy bearing piece.

 

[NIsaacs]

Well, the sending unit was identical to the old one and that was the only good thing about this nasty job. I was dreading it, my head has knots on it from all the bolts and iron it came in contact with

The new jack adapter was fine until it was time to set it on the floor, then it was too tall to clear the body so I had to transfer the tank to two other jacks to get it low enough. It was heavy, too much fuel still in it, about 18 gallons. I used the loader bucket to lift it high enough to syphon the fuel out so the install should be easier. The float on the sender was totally worn out, see pic's. The screens on the sump were nasty looking, like they were painted with shellac so they went bye bye. The tank was super clean and just a slight amount of dirt in the module. I run out of time to install the tank but it is ready. It will be interesting to see if my fuel pressure is more steady with the screens gone.

 

[KATOOM]

Make sure you point the module in the correct position before tightening the ring otherwise the fuel lines wont line up and the float can contact the tank walls.

 

[NIsaacs]

Make sure you point the module in the correct position before tightening the ring otherwise the fuel lines wont line up and the float can contact the tank walls.

Thanks for the reminder, I was actually looking for a tab/notch but it had an arrow and marks. I hope I don't have to ever do this again, it did not agree with me at all. I see a great big hole in the bottom of my bed the next time

 

[fest3er]

Look at the arm that sweeps across the resistor plate. Using some gentle and careful bending, you can shorten that arm to make it sweep across a different arc. I did that to mine 5-8 years ago (I put a 'v' in the arm); the gauge has been steady ever since.

Sigh. It made a liar of me today. Hadn't even driven 10 miles on a full tank and the gauge was showing just over 3/4 tank. Another 40 miles and it was back to almost full. But 12 years on the original and 8 on the 'repair' ain't so bad.

 

[NIsaacs]

Sigh. It made a liar of me today. Hadn't even driven 10 miles on a full tank and the gauge was showing just over 3/4 tank. Another 40 miles and it was back to almost full. But 12 years on the original and 8 on the 'repair' ain't so bad.

I feel for you, Lol. Not a fun job at all. Just my opinion, but I am not so sure that a gasser model module couldn't be modified to work and they have the sender included. You can get one for any year gasser. I would think the tank and gauge would be the same. Mine appears to be a hybrid/modified gasser module. The screened sump has a one way valve in it that is hooked up to nothing...(for the in tank pump?)and the screen appears to be too fine for diesel. As my truck aged, my lift pumps quit sooner and sooner and still not right, even with the Raptor pump. I am anxious to try mine with the screen gone.

 

[Matt42]

When people have been replacing the sender, have they found the snap connectors on the hose or the the tank module to be brittle? My truck is in a hot climate and plastic stuff seems to be getting that way. The sender has been bad for several years. I have a replacement from Geno's and I'm fixin' to pump out and drop the tank this weekend.