2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission fuel press gauge ????

[Dario]

Hey everyone first post ,great site. I have a 99 2500 4x4 ctd. I just installed a westech 0-30 electrical fuel pressure gauge. I tapped into the radio wiring for the 12v ign. feed. I also used the panel light wire and the ground wires from the radio. I notice with the key off if I turn the lights on the gauge will go up about 2psi. If i turn on the high beem another 2 psi. On gauge the light I ran the ground to the ground terminal on the gauge wich is tapped into the radio ground. Any suggestions would help. Thanks and again love this site.

 

[BHitt]

I have the same gauge. When installed I wired directly to the drivers side battery. My instructions said that was the best option. My supplier sent a lot of good info.

 

[Dario]

Well I changed were I had the grounds to better grounds and all is well with the gauge now. Not happy with the reading as I thought 9psi idling 6psi driving down the road and 4 at wot. I think I will look into the fass direct replacment.

 

[DEWright]

did you connect the hot wire directly to the battery or did you go to the ignition where it would turn off when the key was off? I wired as the above did and have had various problems with readings on the gauge. One time it shows a higher reading than other times as if there was a leak in the fuel line and it was losing pressure. I have already changed out the lift pump with an airtex from O'Riellys. Any other recommendations.

 

[Dario]

No I didnt go to the battery for the power. Since I used the cubby holder mount. I just tapped into the radio wiring for power with the key on. Also used the radio light wire for the gauge light so it dims with the rest of them. I ran the ground from the sending uint to the gauge and the engine. I also gounded the body of the sending unit as per the instructions. works great now.

 

[DEWright]

I wired mine up the exact same way except I used the power off of the light in the storage bin below for gauge lighting. Have you experienced any other symptoms? I spoke with another guy yesterday at Blue chip and he said that the he thought that it was probably the lift pump even though mine is brand new. He was not real thrilled with the performance of the airtex pump which is what I have on mine. I even changed it out to see if that was the problem. He highly recommends the fass ddrp pump and he doesn't even recommend relocating it. He said buy the pump and put it where the oem goes and forget about it. I have heard alot of pros and cons about moving the pump back towards the tank. It is very easy to replace the old pump as long as you remove the fuel filter and get it out of the way. You can actually replace the pump in about an hour. Thanks and let me know how yours works out.

 

[DEWright]

Does your gauge have power on it at all times since you went to the battery side or did you connect to ignition switch? Thanks.

 

[Dario]

No mine is key on power tapped into the radio key on power wire. I knew mine was wired bad when the gauge would change when the lights were turned on or the brake was pushed. I would suggest going with ingnition power(key on). Im planning on getting a fass ddrp pump when the funds are there. Not sure where Ill mount it yet. I have the retro pump in the tank right now that I will change back to the old sending unit when I do it so I wont need a draw straw.

 

[Dario]

One other thing I forgot to mention. You may want to get ahold of a mechanical gauge to check to see if the problem is with the gauge or the pump. What about you fuel filter has it been changed lately. How does the truck run?