Fuel pressure gauge - thread sealant

[Dr.Kayak]

Do you need any sealant on the threads where the pressure sender attaches to the taped banjo bolt? The Westach instructions says do NOT use Teflon tape on sender threads. I'm using a grease gun hose as a "snubber" so I have several threads to seal. I have some Permatex. Should I use it?



Thanks,



Chuck

 

[RustyJC]

The non-hardening Permatex (#2, I believe), used sparingly, should work fine. That's what I used on my fittings, and no leaks.



Rusty

 

[Bob Wagner]

here DR.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=29516

 

[Wheaties]

teflon tape

Home Depot sold me some yellow telflon tape, sez it's good for gasoline, kerosene, propane, and more.



Would that be acceptable?



Matt

 

[RustyJC]

Yes, there is a yellowish teflon tape rated for use with hydrocarbons. Westach's concern, though, is that teflon tape has a tendency to be cut into shards or stringy threads as the fittings are made up. These shards can get into the sending unit and foul up the works. I really wouldn't want them running around in the fuel system, either, if I were reading post-filter fuel pressure!



Rusty

 

[Dr.Kayak]

Thanks for the replys. I'm ready to give it a shot.

 

[illflem]

I personally like anti-seize that is made with ground lead or copper on all automotive plumbing. The types with ground aluminum work also but make a mess. Anti-seize is the best in high temp situations. Permatex #2 works well also.

 

[Steve Campbell]

Bill, I would have never thought to try anti-seze. Thanks for the tip.

 

[John]

I favor the use of Loctite's Teflon thread sealant... (a. k. a. in the industry as pipe dope). I believe it is Loctite 562. I apply this to the sender threads very sparingly, usually a narrow band around the upper part of the thread contact area (on the sender) so I can obtain a good sender ground (if required). If the ground condition is applicable, I double check the ground after sender installation with my multi-meter. The aforementioned Loctite will work well in all sender applications except the pyrometer thermocouple... here I use that trick ceramic based, extremely high-temp. anti-seize from Griot's Garage (www.griotsgarage.com).

 

[illflem]

Steve, I found out about anti-seize for thread sealant by finally breaking down and reading the label on it. I've had problems for decades with fittings on farm equipment hydraulic fittings and fuel tanks weeping using Teflon paste, Permatex#2, and even an expensive purple Loctite product designed for hydraulic systems. Sort of a drag when frontend loader controls drip on your foot. Haven't had a problem since using anti-seize. Another place I've found that is excellent for anti-seize is electric water heater elements, many times they can be near impossible to remove without it. I even remove the element on a new heater and apply it before installing the heater, no problems since.

 

[Steve Campbell]

". Sort of a drag when frontend loader controls drip on your foot. " I resorted to tieing an old sweatshirt around the whole valve body and changing it once a year. Talk about a farmered up mess. thanks again Bill.

 

[Challenger-II]

I Had the same question regarding the teflon tape and I called Genos about it. No problem using teflon tape, just dont wrap it around where the sender's port is... . duh!! I believe the original reason for Westach stating this is for a grounding issue. They have changed to a two terminal sender but the directions show a single terminal w/ hose clamp for ground..... they didnt update the directions.



Do use something to seal those threads... ... I tried to go without it and they leaked!!!!

 

[QRTRHRS]

Yellow tape - PTFE

It is heavier than the white tape and does not seem to shread as easily. When I use tape, I usually keep away from the first thread or so if I am worried about contamination.

 

[Dr.Kayak]

Got a slight leak

It seams that Ray's Banjo bolts are taped a little too deep for the grease gun hose I'm using to isolate the senders. The hose screws into the banjo bolt till it bottoms out without ever getting tight. I have a slight leak. It leaks just enough to get the fitting damp with diesel. Never drips. Is this a big deal?



I'm going to look for a hose with longer threads.

 

[illflem]

Dr. , you could also try using a coupling and nipple between your banjo bolt and hose. Some nipples have a very heavy taper and should seal great. I wouldn't leave it weeping, it will eventually turn into a drip. Also make sure that screwing the grease gun hose into the banjo bolt hasn't retapped it into a smaller diameter, maybe turn the hose around.

 

[Steve Campbell]

I don't know what the mating surfaces look like, but perhaps it would be a case for an "O-ring" seal(face of banjo bolt and the Lip[if there is one] on the grease gun hose. ?!

 

[Dr.Kayak]

Yesterday I got a new hose and a O ring for it. The new hose had a much better taper it did not even screw in enough to need the O ring. No leaks now. Getting 14psi at idle.



Thanks for the help,