Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Fuel shutoff relay I presume.........

[EMD-Run8]

Well great! I go out for a brief spin a few minutes ago and the truck I just bought turns over but won't start. Of course it all worked fine for the test drive! Fuel shut off relay right? How do I start this thing 'til I get one?

 

[KWentling]

That's one possibility. Could also be a sticking linkage on the shutoff solenoid, or a burned up coil on the solenoid, but not likely. Try and start, leave the key on and pull up on the solenoid linkage. If it stays up it will start. If not you can wire it up to get you going. If it stays up you can try WD40 on the linkage and see if that cures it. If it it won't stay up you can try replacing the relay (on the firewall by the hydraboost).



Kim

 

[SDrake]

If it wont start holding the fuel shutoff relay then the single most common cause for this is the return fuel hose from the injector pump to the fuel tank. It leaks air but not fuel. Trucks takes longer and longer to crank up after sitting awhile until one day it just won't go. Bad news is that practically every dodge of this vintage experiences this. Good news is that a marine grade fuel hose will cure it pretty much for good. It is just a piece of rubber. Your truck is fine otherwise. Not a lot of fun to change because of tight access but with patience it is dooable. Let us know if you need more direction on this.



BTW the fuel shutoff rellay doesn't kick all the way up until the starter is engaged. Turning on the ignition and looking will make you think it didn't work. Have someone hit the starter while you watch it. If it lifts up cleanly when the starter engages it is OK. Do the fuel hoses.

 

[moparguy]

With a flashlight, look under the fuel filter housing on the side of the block for a round rubber button, if you push it in you'll likely after a few (or 30) pumps start to feel more resistance, this is priming the fuel system, (if you indeed do have a leaking return line).



It should start once you do this, sometimes it'll hold all day, sometimes not depending on the severity of the leak.



Good luck

 

[EMD-Run8]

OK guys, I'll check all of it. From the time I test drove it, and all day long it started right up (like a 12v should heh-heh). I mean turn the key and "rumph" she lights. Went to crank it after sitting a couple hours---not even a sputter. Oh yeah, I don't have a manual yet. Can you give me quick rundown of where everything is on the pump I need to look for. I got the relay. Also, can the relay be found locally. Right now I'm in Dothan, AL which has some truck parts places around. Thanks for your help gents.

 

[Joe G.]

Just a quick review of how the fuel solenoid works. It has two coils, pull up and hold. The power for the pull up coil is supplied through a blue fusable link on the positive post of the driver's side battery thru the fuel solenoid relay. When you turn the key to the start position the fuel solenoid pulls up. It will the stay up as long as the key is in run. So a quick check of the fuel solenoid relay is to bump the starter and leave the key in run. Check to see if the fuel solenoid is up. If it is not, push it up with your finger and see if it stays up. If it did not pull up and stays up when you pull it up manually it is probably the fuel solenoid relay. The blue fuseable link can cause that too if it is corroded or loose on the battery. The relay and blue wire are not involved with the hold coil. It is directly connected to the ignition on circuit.

 

[EMD-Run8]

Thanks fellas. Got it started but a couple questions. The only link I see coming from the positive post is black and goes to the driver side fender where there are two relays. I don't see anything looking like what you described. There is an enclosed device kind of laying on the hydro boost lines that goes back into the harness but it doesn't appear to be it. Are 5 speeds different? Also, I can feel the boot on the solenoid and it's pretty much shot. I'm liking the idea of a nice cable setup.

 

[TClutter]

cable setup is ok for a temp fix but after a wile the cable will start pulling hard do not use a cheap choke one from a lawn mower they just spend the money a the dealer and get the relay . look under the hood by your drivers side wiper it is bolted to the body.

 

[EMD-Run8]

OK. There is NO blue wired fuseable link from either battery. I also do not see anything that even looks like a relay in the area you've described. There ARE two relays on the driver side fender below the battery with two black wires going back up to the battery from one leg of each relay. The other two leads from each leg goes into the harness and runs back toward the pump with a small bundle coming from the main harness to the shutoff solenoid. Now, there is a small bundle rolled up and kind of laying on some of the brake control valves right behind the fuse box. It has a light blue wire and a red wire with with a fuse holder. It has a 20 amp fuse in it. It is not connected to anything and looks like it has been like that since new. This small bundle runs down and under the body. Scout's Honor guys-----I wouldn't kid you!!

 

[EMD-Run8]

OK again. From looking at old threads I gather that the two relays below the fender are for the intake heater. The only relay I see is laying on the hydro boost lines and is connected to the harness that runs along and under the cowl. It says HI-RAM on it and has some numbers like -85 over a +86 and 87 over a 30+. I dunno!!!!!!!!

 

[Nordby]

I have the pull-down and hold-down relays in my hand from a 1997, new in a MOPAR box. The numbers are:

pull-down:4607036, with 45375 right below it.

hold-down:4687 483, with 50732 below.



The pull down is bigger, and higher amperage. They sit right next to each other on the firewall somewhere towards the driver from the battery I guess (don't have the donor truck anymore). The power for the pull down is a thicker gauge (14) red wire with a black stripe, coming from the passenger side battery in a dual setup, has a black fusable link in my case. The pull-down relay also seems to control the starter solenoid with a thicker solid brown wire from the relay down to the starter.



The hold down relay power comes from the passenger side battery, 16g red wire/white stripe.



Likely if one is working, and the other is not, like in your case - corrosion at the battery is not the cause but should be checked. Sounds like it could be the relay - pull the plug and jump the large spade ends to check it. Should thunk the shutoff-solenoid loudly. Do not leave this jumped! I did, and smoked mine. If it doesn't work when jumped, it is the relay.



best of luck,

jon

 

[KWentling]

I believe there is only one relay invovled and that is the pull up that is energized with the starter. The hold power (low amp) comes from the ignition switch. On a '98 there is only one relay on the cowl (you found it) and that is the pull up relay. On the earlier years there were two, the other being the fuel heater relay. '98's have much better fuel lines and I doubt they're the problem. The only suspect one runs from the overflow to the hard line by the fuel filter. Another common leak source is the fuel heater. If pushing the prime button helps then you need to look for an air leak.



Kim

 

[EMD-Run8]

Yep, #460736. I found it. Took it out and cleaned the metal leads. The copper ones looked OK. Didn't work. Turn the key on and the plunger stays down but pushes in OK. Motor starts right up. I finally went to the local Dodge dealer who just happened to have one. It had both the pull-up and hold down clipped together-------for $51. 00. I just said I needed to make sure that was my problem and thanked them kindly. Nice guys at Dothan Dodge by the way. They did some warranty work on my '04 (back-up light switch, door seal TSB) just before I sold it. Thanks again fellas.

 

[Joe G.]

Nordby,



There are two relays on the fire wall close together. One is the pull up and the other is the fuel heater. There is no hold up relay. The current draw is very low for hold up so the ignition on circuit has plenty of amps.



If your pull up relay is bad you can get an automotive 70 amp relay from almost any electronics store for about $12. Radio Shack does only stocks a 30 amp automotive relay.

 

[EMD-Run8]

So this 460736 relay----is it a Dodge part or does someone make a nice suitable sub? My truck has the hold-up relay only. Oh, anyone know the trick to taking one apart?

 

[Joe G.]

You can get a good 70 amp relay at a electronics store that sells stuff like ICs and resistors. Radio Shack doesn't carry it, but other stores do. The 70 amp relay has wide pins on the load side. The bottom of the relay holder will come loose if you squeeze the clips correctly. The part you can see is a cover, it's not the relay. Once you get it out you can take it to a store to get one that has connectors like it.

 

[EMD-Run8]

Okey dokey then. Thank you sir. Edit: Just what is the correct way? Double Edit: Nevermind----I got it. What a PITA!!! It's a mess. All kinds of rusty goop in it. It doesn't help that the relay is hanging upside down from the harness! I'll have to fix that once I get a new relay. Radio Shack's a no go huh?

 

[Joe G.]

Radio Shack has a 30 amp for about $6 that will work, but it is close to capacity. It will last a while until you can find a 70 amp. I really don't understand how Dodge gets away with charging $50 for a relay that you can get for about $10 or even less. I paid $7 for one and $12 another time. I buy my electronics parts at a small store here. They don't sell cell phones, electric toys, or computers. Just resistors, capacitors, relays, ICs and other components like that. Radio Shack has become a store for electroic gadgets instead of components.

 

[LarryB]

If you can't find a 70amp relay locally we have them at www.fostertruck.com/dodge. Also, on some of the 98s there is a fuse in the fusebox instead of a fusable link. It may be marked "spare".



Larry

 

[EMD-Run8]

Thanks LarryB. I might just have to do that. Now, if I can get on top of the mild salt damage the truck has before it drives me nuts... ... ...