fuel shutoff solenoid

[swankmetal]

anybody ever have to change theirs? mine just went out. tried to change it tonight and ran out of time because i was cuttin up wrenches and stuff tryin to get the old one out. no luck. i took the top part way off the pump (wish i would have changed this thing out when i did the gov spring) and still couldn't get a good grip on it. i could get a crowsfoot on it, but it kept popping off. that suckers tight. almost took the top all the way off, but noticed that there would be no way to get a socket on it. an ideas?



thanks

dave

 

[cotto]

I actually had mine replaced by a shop. If I knew then, what I know now, I would have done it myself and saved some money. It is pretty basic, but you have to cut the quarter inch metal loop that sits beside it. If you cut it flush this should allow you easy access. It seems goofy, but that is what the shop did and that is what I have read many others have done. I think that loop is there to help with the initial installation, but it gets in the way for mantaince such as this. Good Luck.

 

[1stgen4evr]

fuel solonoid

Plenty of folks have had this problem. If you are stranded, get the solonoid body off and remove the plunger. Reinsttall and use the manual cut off when you shut off. Of course you have to raise the hood. I bent a box end (heat with the torch) to fit. I just bent the flat bracket on the back of the pump over with a large ajustable. The bracket serves no purpose on my truck and I considered removing it completely.



James

 

[Don in Missouri]

I took that bracket off the back and mine had to sit overnight with penetrating oil, and convince it with a big pair of vice grips. I wish I had better advice.



Good luck!

 

[swankmetal]

thanks for the advice guys. got'er done last night. it's nice not having to get out of the truck to turn off. i took the plate off and trimmed it up a little. came right out once i had access. i was going to leave the plate off, but the screws smelled like fresh fuel and they bottomed out before i could get them tight. anyway, thanks again. dave

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

I had a headache with that one too... . I finally got physical and used an air grinder to chop the top of that bracket off just above the pump head... . darn thing made me resort to profanities in the presence of ladies... ...



p b...

 

[swankmetal]

darn thing made me resort to profanities in the presence of ladies... ...



p b...

:--) :--) :--)

 

[dslcummins]

I would not rush into changing the fuel shutoff out, without checking the wiring, to make sure it has a good connection. I have had this happen to me a few times. Most recently in Idaho a month ago. A couple of times it wouldn't start. I checked the connection at the fuel shutoff and it started right up. I have 319,000 miles on mine, it is the original shutoff.

 

[1stgen4evr]

"would not rush"



Good point. Of the five truck I have, one exhibits intermitent quit completely and it is from a faulty connection. Last time I crimped the connection a bit and since then, no problem. Another quit at about 200k and required a new solonoid. The high miles 93 (450K) is running on the original and never a problem. The other two I don't know the early history on but htye show no problem. So for me there is better than 80% chance that the prob is not the solonoid. I used a jumper on the one that died and proved the problem.



James

 

[Paychk]

I think it was PB that asked for the electrical specs on the fuel solenoid or as Dodge calls it the Shut Off Valve, here they are per the 89 diesel supp. to the FSM.



Current draw 2 amps

Min. voltage 10 VDC

Op. voltage 12 VDC

Resistance 7. 4 Ohms

 

[swankmetal]

oh, believe you me, after the first attempt at pulling that thing i checked EVERY wire. when i finally got it out, i noticed a nice chunk missing. hopefully it doesn't get caught in a line or something. is that something i should be worried/do something about?

 

[1stgen4evr]

Solonoid shorted out/smoking

Well at 460k my 93 died in traffic. Definitely the solonoid. Couple of things for the newbies here. These give trouble as you can see from the posts and often it is a faulty wire, however, they do fail and you are dead in the water till you make a fix of some sort.



Bought a new solonoid from the Bosch shop near home (65 dollars) and ask about the solonoid on the Volkswagon. Bosch guy said they are identically the same. An earlier post indicated that the VW price was better. I would look into that if there were a VW dealer near.



Got to find my 'special bent' wrench and change it out tomorrow.



James

 

[bgilbert]

And if ones injection pump is ever off, or if one had the time it can be done with the pump on the truck, cut or grind off the top edge of that bracket thats in the way of the shut off valve. Makes it really easy to access it with no bracket in the way.

 

[Greenleaf]

One of the first things I perform to an injection pump, be it mine or someone else, on the truck or off, is to cut the top off the brace that bolts to the pump head.



When the pump is in place on the engine, there are only three small cap screws (OK, two nuts one cap screw) that require loosening and removal to have enough room to drive a bus through. Once that throttle cam bracket assy is unbolted and dropped down outta the way, you have almost unlimited access to that solenoid. Providing you cut off the top of that brace in the way.





-Scott

 

[JLEONARD]

Bosch guy said they are identically the same

Good deal James. Thanks for getting that verified.

(I still have one from my old VW... )

 

[1stgen4evr]

heavy hand method

Since all agree that the bracket on the back of the pump is redundant for our application, I wanted to have it out of the way. Last time, I went to great pain to get the bracket off and trim it down. This time, I got an adjustable wrench and simply bent it toward the front and then back for about twenty five cycles and the top broke off even with the upper bolt. Like I said, a bit heavy handed but it sure as heck simplified the job. Moved the intercooler tube and the throttle bracket and voila, all the room in the world.



I had earlier said that it reqiuires a 15/16 bent just so. Well, that ain't so. It is bigger than 15/16. Got to be metric so I ground my special wrench to fit. I am certain that the one on the 92 was removed with that wrench but it simply would not fit the 93. Took less than an hour to complete.



Any way, she fired right up without any bleeding.



James

 

[Greenleaf]

Yep. I have not had a problem getting air into the pump while R & R-ing the valve/sonenoid. Not much fuel comes out if any for that matter.



The 15/16" wrench has always worked for me. I think the the other size (in metric) is something like a 24mm



Scott

 

[JLEONARD]

24 mm is slightly larger than 15/16... . I could see where some 15/16 would fit, and some won't.

 

[RLanham]

The flange where my fuel shut-off solinoid bolts to the injection pump body is leaking (oblong flange with 2 'torx' screws). Checked the Dodge dealer and they only sell the kit which is $200+. Does anyone know IF cummins dealers have this gasket or o-ring? ('93 D-250 with #60k). Thanks Bob

 

[Greenleaf]

That's not the fuel shut-off solenoid. It's the timing advance. The o ring in behind is leaking. You could replace just that o ring or all the o rings. The part is 3. 00 or... . the gasket "kit" is 15. 00 tell that to your stupid dealer.



-S