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Fuel system Sputter, momentary loss of power

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2003 48RE internal upgrades

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I've read a bit on this so far and seems like it could be the lift pump or fuel filter but I'll explain the symptoms first.

Under little load, around 1400 to 1700 rpms, I will get a quarter second power sputter.
It may happen once or a few times.
It feels alot like a shorting coil in a gas car.

The lift pump was changed under warrantee back in 08 or so to the newest version....in tank.

I need to check the filter, it does have right around 10k on it and hopefully thats the culprit.

If it still sputters I will assume my only course of action is dropping the tank and swapping out the pump.

Am I on the right track?

Thanks
 
Could be FCA try some 2 stroke oil in the fuel . It helps lubricate the FCA if it smooths out then that is what you will need to replace . Location on back of CP3
 
FCA when tried have a miss or loop at Idle, In tank Pumps generally are dead or alive, if the in tank is stumbling its a pretty good buck or jerk, Check filter and report Back.

The CP3 has a GP (Gear pump) that produces 25Hg so it can pull thru some inline pumps Airdog, etc, the GP is NOT self priming, thus the need for a lift pump.
 
I've never seen a filter come out this dirty, even the drain puked out some grime.
I'll see on my commute tomorrow if it helped.
It hasn't acted up the past few days but I feel alot better that filthy filter is out.

20160106_161341_zpshparlkcd.jpg


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Yep, totally normal looking. The asphaltenes are just a way of life with ULSD and the CR fuel systems.
 
Update;
I did order a new FCA from Genos last week, as well as replenishing my filter stock..

Today I pulled the FCA, blasted it with WD40 and reinstalled.
I did get a stutter about 20 after starting it but maybe that's from an air pocket in the rail from removing the FCA, I'm not that knowledgeable about the system.
A test drive on the freeway, trying to simulate, didn't get any stutters.
Good or bad, I don't know. The truck could go a couple days without a stutter anyway.

The new FCA should be here Wednesday and it's only 5 minutes to change it out anyway.

If the FCA is bad, my understanding is, you can clean it out, reinstall it and it will work fine..........for a time?
Will it start to fail again?

Thanks again for the help here.
 
I don't see how spraying anything will change the behavior of the FCA. Dissemble, remove wear parts and Re-assemble or New, thats about it.
 
No air pockets in the rail, the air is bled out in the CP-3 before it ever pressurizes the rail. FCA is probably starting to fail, if not the CP-3. Only sure way is try a new one and go from there.
 
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I recently had similar issue...... had couple of problems one was tps sensor, caused the stumbles, drop fuel tank out, and removed the fuel coloum has very fine screen on the bottom, was full of crap.... the fellows could not belive my truck even ran...... 04 one ton dulley
 
Today I replaced the FCA and went for a test drive.
At first it seemed promising but the sputter came back.

At this point I may need to take it to a my local mechanic, who owns the same year/model and who specializes in diesel for the repair.
 
Just to update this, I removed a Smarty program SW-03 and drove it stock prog for a couple weeks.
Never sputtered.
On an impulse buy I got the Smarty Touch and played with programs.
I am running #4 proggy now, no sputtering.

One thing I did notice thru this is a voltage issue I'm experiencing which is in another thread now.
So I'm thinking the sputter might be due to this voltage issue which I am still working on.
I may have corrected it enough so far to remove the sputter.
 
Just to update this issue with a resolve.
I finally figured out the stutter wasn't fuel or electrical. The issue was electrical but not the symptom.
The overdrive in the trans was dropping the clutch pressure for a split second.
After months of videoing my Smarty touch and watching all the gauges (the ones that work, another thread, https://www.turbodieselregister.com...ide-instrument-cluster-gauges-stopped-working,) I decided to make all new battery cables.
Using #2 and #4 Hi-Freq welding cable and dedicated electrical lugs I made and replaced all the Neg cables.
One stock #0 cable from the driver's side battery to the engine block was loose enough to unscrew it by hand and it was oily.
For the past three weeks I've been trying to recreate that stutter to no avail.
Now time to try to figure out my cluster issue,.... and I need to make all new Pos side cables.
Thanks for the help.
 
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