Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Gauge installation

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Getting ready (finally!) to do the gauge install on my truck. Think I'll be going with the Di Pricols (Boost, EGT, FP) from Genos. I've read up as much as I can about it in the forums, but I have a couple of questions.



1) I was planning on getting the boost pressure from the plug on the side of the engine. As I understand, I'll need a fitting to reduce from 3/4" NPT to 1/8" NPT. Those of you who've gotten this setup from Genos--is the fitting included with the gauge? I'm not too familiar with plumbing (I don't even know what NPT stands for... ), so is this something I can just walk into Home Depot and ask for?



2) For the fuel pressure--I know the '99s are different from later models. Lack of a schrader test port, as I recall. Is there a way to mount the sending unit directly to the fittings on the fuel filter (it's the bottom-loading version, not the drop-in of later models)? Do I need one of those tapped banjos?



3) Finally, as far as tapping the manifold for the thermocouple goes--is there anything in particular to watch for? You guys have already convinced me to mount pre-turbo, and remove the turbo. I've never tapped a pipe before. Do I just drill the hole and screw the (1/8" NPT) tap in, letting it do its magic?



I appreciate any info you guys can give me. I think I've got a basic handle on it, but I figured I'd ask the guys that know. Also, keep in mind you're talking to an engineer here, so keep it simple, please--I can do orbit determination for the space station, but I'm still working on my 'useful' skills here, and I need you guys to help keep me out of trouble in the meantime. :D



Thanks, all.



--Ty
 
On the boost pick-up, mine was 1/8" already, so nothing to do but screw in the fitting. The kit usually has a reducer or two, so I would just wait till till shows up and see what you have. The threads of the fitting will need to be wrapped in Teflon tape, or some type pipe sealant.

When you go to tap your hole,I like to tap it for 1/4" and then use a brass reducer. The probes will get stuck in the cast manifold, should replacement be needed later. The bass separates the stainless steel from the cast iron and keeps them from freezing. When you go to buy yourself the tap(which ever size you want) pick-up a new drill bit in the size needed for the tap. Also get yourself a small can of tap-ease,it is a lubricant for tapping. And if you do not have any grease, like wheel bearing grease, pick-up a small can. Pick your location you want to drill, start drilling and when you think you are close, like 1/2-3/4 the way thru. Stop and dip the drill bit in the grease, this way the grease will catch 75% of the shavings. Now blow away all the shavings, and drill on thru with the greased-up bit. Take you tap (I forgot to mention that you should have a tap holder, The type that will accept a 3/8" drive ratchet work best) install in the holder, dip the tap into the grease,apply alittle tap-ease and start tapping, keep it straight and go slow, most time it is best to go in a few turns and then back a turn. When you go back, just give a couple drops of the tap-ease. Once you are thru, and have the threads reaching the bottom of your hole, you are done. Since this is a pipe thread, you don't want to go to deep, the threads have a tapper to them. Now just clean-up the area, and with a flash light look into the hole, if there is a few shavings, you can reach in with a small magnet and get them. If you do not have a magnet, a Q-tip with some grease on the end, will work. Install the fittings(I like to use Never Seze on the threads), you are done.
 
I just did mine so I can offer some info.



The boost guage most likley does not have the fittings you

need to adapt. I taped off of manifold using the hollow bolt

that they sell however I made my own. BTW NPT

means national pipe tap.

The fuel is easy on your truck, you are provided

a 1/8 npt on top of your fuel filter, use the one that is close

to the center as you have two, that is the post filter press.

The turbo only needs to be pulled away enought to slip

a peice of card board between it and manifold.

As to the tapping, not hard only get a good quality

tap and do not go to deep, these are taprerd threads

and you can go to far if not careful. Also you need

to be aware to use the proper drill, for 1/8 27 use

an "R" drill bit.

Hope this helps.

Kirk
 
Thanks, gentlemen!



I think I'm about good to go, just one more question. I've heard before not to go too deep, but I'm not sure what exactly that means. Should I just run the tap until the threads run the length of the hole? I guess I see what you mean if it's tapered--the hole would keep getting bigger. Also, is an R bit hard to find, or can I pick one up at Sears? Same question for a 'good' tap?



Thanks again, can't wait to get the gauges installed.



--Ty
 
A well stocked hardwear store should have what you need.

Sears might, but would not count on it if it is like the one

I shop at:(

By not going to deep is what you think, the taper gets

bigger and bigger.

I get the tap started say about 20-25% pull it out

and try the fitting, will it start? if so how many threads?

You only want the fitting to thread in enough to

be even with the surface of the port, not sticking

through. here is all you want to know about install.

Hope this helps

Kirk





http://www.tstproducts.com/gauge_install.html
 
Thanks for the pic, that's just what I needed for peace of mind.



I know what you mean about Sears. The one here isn't bad, but I miss my little locally-owned hardware store. Too urbanized here in Tampa Bay. Sure, the beach is nice, but I'd be back to Knoxville in a second if I could find a job there. Little slower pace...



Anyway, my gauges are in the mail, so I guess I should go looking for a tap and an R bit.



Anything else work as a substitute for the R if I can't find one? It just sounds like an oddball size--don't think I've ever seen one...



--Ty
 
You could use 21/64=. 3281, an R bit is . 3390 about . 010 diff.

Not a problem. Now get this, My sears tap and die set say

5/16=. 3125 I beleive this is a little too tight.

There are "letter" bits that cover the in between the

fractional bit sets, not to common for most weekend

wrench jockys.

Kirk
 
Cool, thanks.



Unfortunately, Genos just let me know my EGT gauge is on backorder for a week or two... :{



Ah, well. I suppose I can wait a _bit_ longer...



--Ty
 
tbrudder, 2 weeks... I had to wait about 4 weeks or so... then it took me another 2-4 weeks to get brave enough to start the install process.
 
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