gear lockout selection

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First off, my apologies if this has been covered, I couldn't find specifically through search.

Who here employs the use of the gear lockout selection switches on the shifter? (68rfe)

This is how I use it and I want to make sure I'm not hurting anything.

I only use 6th on interstates.
I run 5th on 55mph state routes
........4th in 45mph zones
and finally 3rd for anything less.

Essentially, I try to keep the tach at 1800-2000. I typically drive 5mph over the limit (common in my area)

I find that this method keeps me from lugging and yields the best mpgs.
this in conjuction with running EB at all times and T/H most of the time.

Is this basically what everyone else does? Am I mis-using the function? ( I don't use it like a paddle shifter, constantly going up and down).

Thanks.
 
If you run EB and TH ALL the time your truck will perform the best it can as in being in the correct gear all the time. By doing so it will keep the rpm's a bit higher and perform much better when applying more throttle.

Towing with 3.42's lock it in 5th. Carry on!!!

Only other time to drop gears when coming to a grade towing with cruize on when you know it's going to downshift keeping the rpm's up.

OH if your truck is new, RUN THE HELL OUT OF IT!!! The 68 is a learning trans, mine worked GREAT for 65K in my 11 HO Dually.
 
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If I'm not towing....I don't do anything special...unless I am on a grade and traffic slows, I might manually shift then. The only other exception is if I am in a lot of stop and go....through a busy town, a neighborhood etc, then I might use T/H just so it resists an upshift longer.
 
Appreciate the input guys, I hardly tow at all. When I do, it's nothing a 1500 couldn't handle. My commute is all suburbs, lot of stop and go.

Yes, I know this makes me the least likely candidate to drive a CTD. It was no need and all want!
 
First off, my apologies if this has been covered, I couldn't find specifically through search.

Who here employs the use of the gear lockout selection switches on the shifter? (68rfe)

This is how I use it and I want to make sure I'm not hurting anything.

I only use 6th on interstates.
I run 5th on 55mph state routes
........4th in 45mph zones
and finally 3rd for anything less.

Essentially, I try to keep the tach at 1800-2000. I typically drive 5mph over the limit (common in my area)

I find that this method keeps me from lugging and yields the best mpgs.
this in conjuction with running EB at all times and T/H most of the time.

Is this basically what everyone else does? Am I mis-using the function? ( I don't use it like a paddle shifter, constantly going up and down).

Thanks.

Nope......get in, push button, seatbelt, put in Drive, push pedals......and let the truck do what it wants. Sit back, crank up the radio and enjoy.:)

Sam
 
When empty, I just drive it. When the 13K fifth wheel is attached we go to tow/haul mode, auto EB, and most of the time lock out sixth. The exception to locking out sixth is 70 or over in the flats.
 
If you run EB and TH ALL the time your truck will perform the best it can as in being in the correct gear all the time. By doing so it will keep the rpm's a bit higher and perform much better when applying more throttle.

Towing with 3.42's lock it in 5th. Carry on!!!

Only other time to drop gears when coming to a grade towing with cruize on when you know it's going to downshift keeping the rpm's up.

OH if your truck is new, RUN THE HELL OUT OF IT!!! The 68 is a learning trans, mine worked GREAT for 65K in my 11 HO Dually.

The SRW Aisin truck in T/H will not shift to 6th gear until 65 MPH, so given that I tow at 60-62 MPH, only on down hills is it really needed to lock out 6th gear. When it runs up to the point of the EB coming on, which might be over 65 and then into 6th, in 5th it works better! Thus the lockout of 6th. In flat land it would not matter. SnoKing
 
One should always turn on the tow/haul and EB every time you get in the truck. This keeps the sliding vane shafts in the turbo from getting sooted/gummed up causing issues later and like already said, it keeps the rpm's up and the biggest benefit is that your brake pads will last for 150,000 or so. I almost never use the foot brake in normal country driving and with the tow/haul and EB on, it will slow down aggressively enough that you are not taking forever to slow down being a poke on the road either. A simple tap of the brake and it will trigger the slow down process. I love it.
What you're doing won't hurt anything. Myself personally, the only time I lock out gears or manually shift them is while towing in hilly country or in anticipation of the start of a climb with a load that will cause it to shift anyway, that way it's not shifting while under extreme load on the climb after some speed loss.
 
I like the way my truck functions in tow/haul and with the e/brake engaged so I run it that way all the time... it seems to lug/shudder etc when those 2 functions are not turned on...

I do at times, down shift with the mechanical shiftier when towing and find the truck starting on a hill, or when I want to maintain a specific speed and not let it shift up...

I early on had a shudder when starting from a stop sign with the 5er connected and making a turn... Mostly noticed on a grade, usually at a light or stop sign coming off a freeway exit up a ramp... I thought this was a transmission shudder and later decided because it only did this on turns it was the rear axle... I changed the fluid in the rear axle and moved to the "severe service Amsoil" product and the shudder on launch went away...
 
@BigDawg72, upon reading your original post I realized that's exactly the way I drive my own truck, just without the tow-haul engaged. Generally, I lock-out 5th & 6th for most around-town driving (EB on full always) up to around 45-50 MPH (tach reaching 2200 or so) before I'd consider grabbing 5th. I like to economy cruise at around 1600-1700 RPM and don't think my engine has ever been above 2800 rpm. TH works great in my truck, but I don't tow anything and really don't need engine braking beyond what the EB will give me. BTW I also have learned to downshift the 68RFE while decelerating which keeps the EB engaged and performing strong. If I was towing anything I would use TH and allow the 68RFE downshift on it's own. If I was on the interstate I'd place the EB into auto. So far my 68RFE seems to be working perfectly!:-laf
 
@BigDawg72, upon reading your original post I realized that's exactly the way I drive my own truck, just without the tow-haul engaged. Generally, I lock-out 5th & 6th for most around-town driving (EB on full always) up to around 45-50 MPH (tach reaching 2200 or so) before I'd consider grabbing 5th. I like to economy cruise at around 1600-1700 RPM and don't think my engine has ever been above 2800 rpm. TH works great in my truck, but I don't tow anything and really don't need engine braking beyond what the EB will give me. BTW I also have learned to downshift the 68RFE while decelerating which keeps the EB engaged and performing strong. If I was towing anything I would use TH and allow the 68RFE downshift on it's own. If I was on the interstate I'd place the EB into auto. So far my 68RFE seems to be working perfectly!:-laf

Yeah, sounds like we are on the same page. Thanks.
 
I don't know about yours, but mine lugs too much when I just get in and drive.

I think lugging is a matter of perception..... After driving my 2001 six speed for almost 15 years and being control of engine speed and gear selection, my first weeks and months of driving my 2014/2016 trucks, I would agree with you. I think the 5.9 and the 6.7 are completely different animals. Now, I just let my truck figure out what RPM and gear it likes and put my RPM/gear selection perceptions from the past, in the back seat.

Enjoy

Sam
 
to be honest, I use that lockout button quite frequently if I'm not on the interstate. I have a 16 3500 DRW w/410 gears and the 68rfe and I discovered thru some trial an error when pulling the fiver that I pretty much got the same fuel economy running in 5th that I did in 6th and the coolant temps where a bit lower. counter intuitive but keeping the RPM up seems to reduce boost pressure and coolant temp.
 
to be honest, I use that lockout button quite frequently if I'm not on the interstate. I have a 16 3500 DRW w/410 gears and the 68rfe and I discovered thru some trial an error when pulling the fiver that I pretty much got the same fuel economy running in 5th that I did in 6th and the coolant temps where a bit lower. counter intuitive but keeping the RPM up seems to reduce boost pressure and coolant temp.



Use TH and EB you will never feel you are in the wrong gear. With the 4.10's you are running about 1,750 at 60 in 6th. Fill in your public profile please.
 
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I do not have a 4th gen truck but I do have a 2008 SRW with the 68RFE auto and 3:73 gears. I know that the 3:42 diff on a SRW truck with 18/20" tires on a 4th gen will have a different RPM/speed readings than my truck will have.

My truck does likes to operate between 1500 to 2000 RPM's with the 3:73 gears and my LT285/70/17 tires. So, I employ the lock out feature all of the time. I lock out 5 and 6th gear in town and at any speed under 45 MPH or 1800 RPM's. When starting my truck and when it is idling I turn on the E-brake when the truck starts to roll I lock out 5 and 6th gear right away. I try and drive by the TAC and I try and keep the RPM's below 2000. There is less of a drone when I am under 2000 RPM's with my muffler system. I never turn on tow/haul unless I am towing my trailer. The truck will shift very harsh when it is in Tow/haul mode with the E-brake is on with no load. So, it is off. I have driven this way since the truck was new in Nov 2007.

Tow/haul is not needed unless the truck is loaded or towing something. I know some like this to be on all of the time but that was not the intent of this feature.
Just my opinion.
 
Jim W;I try and drive by the TAC .[/QUOTE said:
That's exactly what I do.

Per everyone's input, I've been using the T/H mode a lot more and it has helped greatly. Thanks everyone.

Now, I'd like to get it to where EB and T/H are always on. I guess, jumper them & disable the switch?
 
That's exactly what I do.

Per everyone's input, I've been using the T/H mode a lot more and it has helped greatly. Thanks everyone.

Now, I'd like to get it to where EB and T/H are always on. I guess, jumper them & disable the switch?



Get in start truck push two buttons, enjoy!
 
Get in start truck push two buttons, enjoy!

ha, it's already like a pre-flight check

"back" button on steering wheel to get the TPMS info off of the EVIC (no matter what I do, it's always on "low tire pressure" )
then the "play button" to get the EVIC back to fuel economy
"EB"
"TH"
"accept" on the uconnect warning
"seat heater"

yeah, it's no big deal, but....

I know it's petty, could have bigger problems right?
 
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