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Good Deal on Steering Upgrade

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DGamelin

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Just ordered the steering upgrade found the best deal on ebay All Genuine Mopar, thought I would let you know, item # 390932492136 they have more in stock. My front end felt fine but was getting unusual tire ware, already has new balljoints. The whole kit is 437.66 with free shipping, stabilizer, and pitman arm. This is good looking stuff.
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Is that he newest version, with the drivers side tie rod end that CANNOT rotate out of alignment with the passengers side end?
 
Isn't there a recall right now on this item? Is this better than what the dealer is going to put on?

How about you steering box? Is that still tight? Steering is on my short list for sure... This thing wanders like a 1940's tractor!
 
This is right from a dodge dealer, in a mopar box this week. It is a dodge dealer selling them. We have bought parts from them before. I don't see how it would it would rotate out. I know there is some kind of a steering recall on my truck now. I don't think a dealer would be allowed to sell parts with a recall on them. This is what comes stock on a 2009 to 2012 with the heaver front axle. This will do a better job of consistent tow in settings.
 
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The tie rod ends being off from each other is not an issue as long as they are parallel when the adjuster sleeve is tightened.
 
The tie rod ends being off from each other is not an issue as long as they are parallel when the adjuster sleeve is tightened.

I understand that...I have the upgrade installed under warranty some years ago, and it is now subject to recall for the upgarded parts. It was installed correctly and has never given me a problem. That being said, there IS a superceded part# for the linkage and I was curious as to which the dealership was selling.
 
Loosen the adjster on the driver side TRE and see if you can turn the TRE out of line with the passenger side one by more than a coupe degrees.
 
No you can't, pretty slick set up. It is on the truck now we have to send it to another shop for the aliment.
 
At least that means it is the new style. Probably should have installed grease zerks before putting it on the truck though. Thta is th eone glaring lack that kills thme in rough environments,
 
At least that means it is the new style. Probably should have installed grease zerks before putting it on the truck though. Thta is th eone glaring lack that kills thme in rough environments,

I have always thought the same thing, but where would you drill to mount the zerks??
 
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Considering how munch better of a system this is over the stock y setup it is a shame they left out zerks. With out knowing what they look like on the inside I would be afraid to drill holes in them. We replace these y configuration on jeeps to help eliminate darting.
 
Considering how munch better of a system this is over the stock y setup it is a shame they left out zerks. With out knowing what they look like on the inside I would be afraid to drill holes in them. We replace these y configuration on jeeps to help eliminate darting.


Zerks are nice - but only if the User does grease them, most Drivers don't and so the Sealed Unit is the better way to go, like the U-Joints.
 
Sealed units still have a finite life expectancy, there is just no effective way around it. With components subjected to high load conditions and environment extremes, it is a joke. Planned obsolesence is all it is.

If they are pre-loaded with adequate high quality lubricant and adequately sealed agianst contamination performance is much better, but, that is not the case with either the TRE's or the u-joints.
 
Before I installed mine I used a grease needle between the stud and seal and greased the tie rod ends, I dont know how much it really helped but figured it couldnt hurt.
 
I have NO problem keeping my truck properly lubed...I would like to install zerks on the new linkage BEFORE my dealer installs it for me.
I have contacted them, and the service manager is willing to let me do so.

So I need to know exactly WHERE and how DEEP to drill on the TREs in order to insatll the zerks in a manner that they will work and that I won't mess naything up. I can probably figure it out, but would like advice first.

The above is my preference, though I guess a working back up plan would be to use a sharp needle grease fitting to inject grease occasionally into the rubber boots??
 
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