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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Hard Start

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) lockup problem solved

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I was having a hard start issue for a few month's. I also had an issue with oil burbing out of the front tube once in a while( twice in 6 months). Checked everything from the tank, replaced fuel line up to the filter housing, bled injector lines. Finally took it in and found out that 3 of the "crossover tubes" or "dip" tubes were cracked. Not sure if I'm calling them by the right name, but they go between the injector line and the injector. They were leaking down and filling my crank case slowly and causing it to lose prime. just thought I'd mention this as a possibility. Good luck.
 
Great info guys.
Next I've decided to just lift the bed and replace all the rubber lines near the tank. Unfortunately, it's a regular cab long bed with a beast of a Utility bed on it with a custom lumber rack. But that's all I have left to replace. That, and the injectors; but if the injectors were leaking down, I don't think it would matter if it was parked uphill or downhill. So I've ruled them out. We'll see. This truck has the new Dodge lift pump relocation kit to the tank, and it did this before it was installed and after. The lines are all that are left (and tightening the #6 injector. )
 
Today I tightened all the injector fittings (except #2- couldn't get any type of tool on it with out removing the air horn) and the fittings at the VP44.

I also replaced the plastic fuel filter lid with the beefy Geno's replacement lid (what an f-ing awesome unit!) The plastic lid I replaced was my friend's second lid. He had replaced it a while ago because the old one was suspect. I decided to replace it again with the Geno's lid to permanently rule it out, and because if doesn't leak now, it may in the future and the new lid should never have problems.

Then, with the Utility Bed removed, I was able to replace both the flexible 3/8" fuel supply line and the 5/16" fuel return line from the hard lines on the frame rail to the tank and used hose clamps instead of the quick-disconnects. My friend removed the utility bed for me and pressure washed everything before I had to work on it. He said it looked like the return line quick-disconnect was leaking before he pressure washed it. So hopefully that was our problem.

I also replaced the 3/8" flexible fuel supply line up front from the frame rail to where the old lift pump would have been (this truck has the new OEM pump relocation kit). Again I didn't retain the quick-disconnect- I ditched it and used hose clamps. The flexible 5/16" fuel return line up front I had already replaced. So now after all this, I have exhausted all my possibilities with the exception of the #2 injector. My friend is going to park it uphill overnight tonight and see if it hard starts tomorrow. If it does, I'm gonna be really disappointed.
I'll post results tomorrow. Just a reminder, this is my friend's 2001 2500 4x4 reg. cab long bed I'm troubleshooting, not the truck in my sig.
 
Was your problem fixed by this? I am having this same thing just out of the blue. I have the Air Dog though. I thought that might eliminate my problem from the pump back to the tank?
 
This last effort appears to have fixed it, but I haven't heard back on how it starts after being parked uphill, overnight. As soon as he confirms that, I will have a solid answer. Sorry for the wait. My friend has been out of state for a bit without his truck.
 
I have had a bit of a stumble after startup occasionally as well as an occasional dead pedal type feeling, albeit VERY brief, while driving. These symptoms are very, very brief and don't reappear until the next time I shut the truck off. I have no codes yet and I'm hoping I can make this VP last for another year or two. I also filled up yesterday - I wasn't empty before as I only put 21 gallons in but that seems to have made a difference in the hard start this morning.
 
I just talked to my buddy and it DID NOT fix the hard start in the mornings. So I am going to try the clear fuel line test between the filter and the VP44 and see if we see bubbles when we go to fire it in the morning. The troubleshooting guide from BLUECHIP Diesel Performance is excellent. I urge you to read through this guide, it's great info.

Blue Chip Diesel Performance Specialists

I will update this once I've fixed it. Unfortunately, there is not much left but the VP44... Cha-Ching!
 
Well, apparently the tank fuel level was the problem. I was not empty when I filled up but since I have there have been no hard start issues.
 
I FIXED IT! Yesterday (5-30-11) I replaced the injector tube o-rings. Cummins part #3867043 (x6), they were $2. 74 each and I bought them from my local Big Rig dealer. I made sure to re-torque the high pressure fuel fittings at the head to 28 ft-lbs. as per ALLDATA. I had to remove the engine hoist anchor between #5 & #6 injectors and I also had to remove the intake horn and grid heater to service #1 & #2 injector tubes. Overall it was an easy job. I proceeded with this as suggested by Chip Fisher at Blue Chip Diesel. That guy is THE MAN!

I also replaced the o-ring at the W. I. F sensor and the four (4) o-rings associated with the fuel drain valve on the fuel filter canister. There were 2 on the mating surface and 2 inside the valve itself. For the o-rings for the W. I. F. and fuel drain valve, I bought a VITON o-ring assortment set, part #67525, from Harbor Freight, only $14-.

I can't say for sure it was one or the other that fixed the issue, but I would place a lot of money on the injector tube o-rings. I just did the filter housing stuff to check it off the list. There was a noticeable difference when removing the injector tubes. I started with #6 and worked my way forward. #6 came out easiest and they progressively got tighter as I moved forward. Chip told me that #5 & #6 tend to get cooked as times goes by, especially if the truck has been run too hot a time or two. He was right.

Well, I am glad to finally fix this issue for my Buddy. I was starting to get discouraged and feel like an idiot.
I hope this helps someone else out there. Good Luck!
 
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hard starting and hiccupping in 3rd under load

I have changed the fuel filter and this helped a bit. From the posts, it appears I have an air leak. I'll check hoses from fuel tank to engine but where and what should I try to tighten? P-code from the ignition switch show only "P done"
 
It's been awhile since I've checked in or even logged on, but I'm still having the same issue. My fuel pressure gauge (Quad piece o crap) is reading very irratically and very low in the low gears only. It drops all the way down to to 2 or 3 when accelerating in gears 1-4 ONLY. When I'm in 4th, 5th , 6th the pressure stays above 12 no matter how hard I get into the pedal. It also seems to be directly related to fuel level. I did have the in tank unit out to replace the sender a fw months ago and this problem started at that time. I need to get the bed back off and pull the in tank unit to check for problems and I need a new fuel Pressure gauge. I don't trust it's crazy readings one bit. It acts like when the level gets low, it starts to suck air from the tank and that's when I get the studder and all of that. The hard start issue is almost non-existant in the last month however.

IDK - any other ideas?
 
My Buddy had inaccurate fuel level issues. Whenever he got down around a quarter tank, he was actually almost empty! When we replaced the lift pump with the Dodge in-tank conversion kit, it replaced his fuel level sender in the tank as well, and BAM! Fuel level issues were gone. Those fuel level senders go bad- do not trust them once they become squirrelly.
 
WYOMINGCOWBOY,
I highly recommend replacing your lift pump with the Dodge in-tank conversion kit I spoke of. I found them online at a decent price; much better than getting them from your local Dodge Dealer.
 
I have an air dog already and I just replaced the level sender - that is when the funny issues started so I'm thinking it has something to do with that. I know the new sender is at least fairly accurate. (The bad one read full or empty at ALL times. ) I have a manual gauge that I'll put on to verify air dog pressure to the VP and I just ordered new all 3 new FF and a long line from vulcan so I can relocate my fuel pressure sender and hopefully continue to use the POS Quad gauge. I'm still not sure I trust the Quad even when it's "working". All of this is a week away, though - I'll keep ya posted.
 
hello,I had the same thing with my 02,turned out to be gasket on bango bolt on return line on back side of head,hopes this helps
 
dkoldno7

Can you explain better which banjo bolt you are talking about? I can't figure out what you are talking about. thanks.
 
At the very back of the head an inch or two below the valve cover there is a fuel return line that drops down and across the bell housing the the left frame. If you follow the return line off the VP44 towards the rear of the engine, it "T"s into the return line from the head.
 
after much testing pressurizing etc the problem was finally traced to the pressure switch for the pressure fuel guage I had tapped into the vp44 with a flex grease hose and mounted the switch and t fitting for the guage on an ac bracket close to the firewall. i suspected the hose which was weather cked but no leak. A repair shop finally traced the leak to the pressure switch. apperantly the glue seal inside the switch cracked or melted? letting air into the fuel system causing fuel drain back to the tank. after the fix i drove the truck for about 250mi before my pressure guage acted normal i concluded that it took that much driving to get the air out of the line. all seems to be working now in good order. I had moved the lift pump to the fraim rail and upgraded the pump thinking it might have been the factory pump.
 
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