Hard to start

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I recently experienced a no start [ engine cranks but no fire], after six to eight key turns it finally fires. The dealer trouble shot for three days and came up with a leaky return line which was replaced. It now starts after a few revs. Now for my concern; From the day it was new till the recent episode I always noticed the voltmeter voltage low when the manifold heaters were on, then back to 12v when the relays clicked. Since the truck has been back no more indications are noticed on the voltmeter. Its been hot here in California and the manual says 59f is point when heaters come on. When I pull the electrical plug off of the manifold sensor,meaning low resistance, very cold,the heaters come on, an indication all is well. Is there another test I can perform before I go hunting in Canada and get surprised.

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Jim

 

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As long as the return line is taken care of, I wouldn't get too excited.
Have you checked your overflow valve lately??

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'97 FL60,5. 9 cummins,marine pistons and other goodies,44psi of pure pleasure!!!!!!!!!!!!!
<<>>Charles Pyatt<<>
*WARNING this post may offend some ford-diesel.com members*

 

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Klick, it was 90 here today, and the "wait to start" (or whatever is says) light came on.
I believe every time you turn the ign on, this will come on. After it's running, it'll sense temprature.
I'm no mechanic, just my observations with my truck.
Oh yea, my truck is hard to start because of the idle being low. Just press the petal lightly, it starts fine.
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98 Quad cab 4X4 2500 12 valve,5 speed,3. 54 rears, 8' bed. Boost and egt gauges but basicly stock. 55,000 Mi as of 8/21/00.
NRA life member. High power/IDPA.

[This message has been edited by The patriot (edited 09-01-2000). ]

 

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Skimed over post--BUT must say i have never waited for a start light to cycle unless it is below 30 deg on a cummins.
Next time pop the hood-try to start -if not get out -put your hand under the fuel shut off solenoid and make sure it is in in the up position--or better yet hold up while some one else cranks(tie wrap/wire works).
if it still wips over many times the fuel is draining back to the tank. Cause leak in suction hose.
Another trick is if it won't start prime the lift pump-if you feel no restriction the first few strokes Bleed down>>>>>>

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96-3500 SLT EXT. CAB AM/FM/CD-RINO LINER. D-CELERATOR EXH. BRK-RED LINE VAC. OVER HYD BRK CONTROL- AIR BAGS W/HVY DUTY AIR COMP. PUTCO S/STEEL DEEPBOARDS FRONT TO REAR. REESE 20K 5TH WHEEL & GOOSE -REESE 20K HITCH BELOW W/17K RECEVER. CLEAR COATED & SOUND DEADINGING &UNDER COATED 5 SPD/W 4:10 MCHLN'S 235/16'S UNIDEN PC76/WEATHER-WILSON 1000 MAG MOUNT ANT. 4 WHL ANTI LOC BRK SYS.

 

[Archive]

Thanks to all on submitting your suggestions so timely. TDR forum works like a Cummins. I do have one concern on the note stating ' doesn't wait till the "wait to start" is off'. On my truck, in cool weather, upon starting the voltmeter will register about 8 volts till the wait to start goes out. If you attempt to start with the light on, heaters on, your starter which needs about 3600 watts[my guess] will draw a third more current,450 amps vice 300, and continued use will fry even the best starter. Especially so if the batteries are getting old. At 700. 00 a pop for starters I'll wait. 95 3500 boost gage air lifts [camper] stock 85k mi.

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Jim

 

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klic chestnut I believe when you turn the key to start position, eveything is turned off. Except instrument gauges and any thing related to getting the engine started(igniton swtich, starter relay, starter solenoid, starter motor, fuel shut down relay, fuel shut down solenoid,PCM.
Wait to start light and water in fuel light goes on for 2. 9 sec. for testing only. If the wait to start light stays on longer the PCM has turned on the manifold heaters, when the light goes off after 10,15, or 30 the PCM has turned off the heaters.

 

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Jim:

If you like to watch something instead of the "Wait to Start" watch that Voltmeter. If it drops close to 8 your preheaters have kicked in. Then wait until needle starts to rise.

I like tdrmbramr do not wait for anything down to about 40 degrees outside. Hit the key just like a gasser.

No problem hitting the key anytime. PCM will shut down heaters as soon as start trys to kick in. Although with temps below 40 you will get some white smoke. Below 30 truck will start hard and really smoke, below zero it will not start without heaters. Below -20 preheaters should be cycled several times prior to starting.

As pointed out several times, pre-heaters are set to come on with intake temp of 60 or colder. Light will come on every start as a check.

jjw
ND

 

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Thank you one more time. It sets my mind at ease to learn the PCM removes the ground to the heater relays when you turn the key to start. I was worried there for a few years. It looks like I should turn up my idle to get the engine to start on the first rev. Ciao

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Jim

 

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I had a hard start/no start problem. Turned out to be an intermittend problem with fuel shut-off relay. Luckily it quit in my garage... after a little time with a test light I determined the relay was bad, replaced it and haven't had a problem since





[This message has been edited by PSInt (edited 09-09-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

The heaters come on every time you cycle the ignition key. So in cold weather you can cycle the key a couple of times to get the air good and hot.

They will continue to cycle after the engine has started if the temp is around the 40 deg mark. (unless you had your truck plugged in) You will notice that by the headlights dimming, or just by watching the voltmeter.

Just a note, I plug my truck in at around 40 deg on a timer so it starts cooking water around 2 hours prior to me starting it. It starts better and the defroster works instantly.

I have started it after sitting overnight at 0 (zero) degrees, it will still start but you have to cycle the preheaters a few times.