Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) harmonic damper removal

[justinemmons]

im trying to figure out how to remove the stock damper and install a Fluidampr on an automatic transmission. the bolts just spin the motor. the instructions recomend new bolts for the installation but is that really needed? also it didnt have much instruction on the relocation of the crank sensor bracket that i remeber seeing. i am attempting to do it from under the truck without removing all the front end parts.

thanks!

 

[hsmith]

Use a barring tool to hold keep the crank from turning. Sometimes a socket on the alternator nut will hold it but not always.

 

[CRodi]

Also if I remember correctly, your kit comes with a wiring extension for the crank sensor and instructions on how to splice it into your wiring harness. I just peeled the wires back from the harness and had more than enough length to reposition the crank sensor. I hate disturbing the original wiring unless absolutely necessary, but that's just me.

As far as the bolts go, I just cleaned mine and reinstalled. I believe the recommendations for the new bolts apply to 24 valve and later applications.

Good luck with your installation.

 

[CRodi]

Just came across this from Genos. According to them, you can reuse the same damper bolts.




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Home > Dodge > Engine Parts and Accessories > Engine Repair Parts

FLUIDAMPR HARMONIC DAMPER ('94-'98, 12V)


Item Number: FLUID_960311

Unit Price: $488.00



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About this Product

When was the last time you thought about the crankshaft harmonic damper on the 12-valve Cummins engine in your '94-'98 Dodge Turbo Diesel?
Until a recent article in the Turbo Diesel Register the answer from the staff at Geno's Garage was "never."

What did the article have to say that made us pay attention? First off, it was a simple "bet you didn't know" challenge that caused our interest. So, we will bet you did not know that your Owner's Manual suggests that you inspect the damper every 30k, 60k, 90k, etc. miles.

Second, was the writer's inspection of the damper in their truck.

Third, was the inspection of a damper by the writer's friend with a high horsepower (450hp) Cummins diesel engine.

Fourth, was the inspection of several of our own trucks.

Fifth, was the reduction in noise, better idle quality, and less clutch/gearbox clatter (manual trans) as noted by the writer and his friend after the installation of a Fluidampr on their trucks. Also noted was less vibration as the trucks accelerated in the 2000 rpm to 3000 rpm speed zone.

With five compelling reasons, we called Fluidampr and ordered one of their products to fit an '03-'07 Cummins engine. Evaluation led us to become believers. We now offer Fluidampr products for the Cummins engine in your truck.

NOTE: Research using the Dodge Factory Service Manual states that the existing damper bolts can be reused.

Fluidampr 960311 Harmonic Damper ('94-'98, 12V)

> TDR Issue 73 Tech Topics: It's Time to Check the Harmonic Damper












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Dodge Cummins Turbo Diesel Parts & Accessories

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[hsmith]

I have had mine off a few times, front seal, etc. and still using the same bolts.

 

[justinemmons]

i have the barring tool on order. is loctite needed on the bolts?

 

[CRodi]

I just dug up an old email from Ivan Snyder from Fluidampr:

Blue loctite on the 4 damper bolts torgued to 92 ft.lbs
Apply antiseize on the snout and inside of damper.
Relocation bracket bolts: 18ft.lbs

If you need further info or tech support try: -- email address removed -- He's normally pretty fast with answering emails, if not keep posting, someone will have an answer.

 

[justinemmons]

is a damper puller tool required to get the damper off?

 

[CRodi]

is a damper puller tool required to get the damper off?

No.

I had no need for one. It's not a press fit and there's no key way. Once you remove the 4 bolts, it should come off relatively easy. If you live in the rust belt and have a leak free engine, you might have to turn the damper clockwise and counterclockwise to break the bond. As mentioned else where, you may want to use anti seize on the new damper.

I'm guessing your engine is stock.
There's also a pin kit available for the guys with a lot of horsepower and higher reving engine. It involves drilling the crank shaft. Mine is basically stock, and I didn't have a need for the pin. I installed mine 2-3 years ago and have been trouble free.

 

[hsmith]

Careful you don't let it fall on your toes when you remove the bolts. :-laf I have had mine off several times and still with the factory bolts.