Has anyone been able to set the TPMS below 80lbs in EVIC 2014 2500

[Jackedupsteve]

So I bought a 2014 and had the same issue when putting 35's on it. Checked forums w no luck. So I accessed tech connect via password and did some research. Found that the threshold for the tpms system is 64 psi when the placard reads 80 psi. This means that if u go below 65psi the light will come on. So w no help from the dealer of course because of new federal laws, I decided to pump up the rears like it said to 80 psi. Drove the truck about 1000 feet and the tpms light went out. At that point I lowered my tires to 67 psi. The light stayed out and I don't really care if I'm a couple psi over. Remember u must drive( at least I had to) the truck to get the pressures to change. 1000 ft or so. If u lower the pressure below 65 psi on an 80 psi placard u will have to start all over. Suggest standing back as much as possible when inflating tires w safety eyes and ears. Hope this helps the 2014 ram owners. Peace

 

[Jackedupsteve]

If the placard says 60 psi u can run them down to 49 psi b4 the stupid light comes on. 80 psi threshold is 65. So I'm running 50 and 66

I purchased a new 2014 2500 CC 4x4 last week. When I took delivery there was 80 lbs pressure in all 4 tires. As you can imagine it was a wild ride home 165 miles away. Wondered all over the road. When I got home I lowered the pressure to 60 all around. I tow nothing at all. The door sticker states 60 in front and 80 in the rear. I dropped them all to 60 lbs. The ride was much better but I believe I still have way too much air in the rear. The outer edges of the tire tread in the rear about an inch or so is not making contact with the ground. I made an appointment with the dealer this past Wednesday and they tried for two hours to lower the set point below the 80 lbs in the rear but no go. There is no "light load" setting in the 14's. So every time I start the truck it immediately goes to the EVIC and flashes warning to inflate the rear to 80 pounds and has a red light in the dash. The front is obviously heavier and no problem with 60 pounds there so I don't understand the rear. Does the new 5 link rear suspension require this much air to work proper? I would really like to be able to lower the pressure in the rear and not have any warnings or red lights. I asked Firestone (factory tires) if 45 lbs would be too low in the rear and I was told no problem but not lower.

Anyway has anyone had any luck with any dealer being able to change the set point or is this just the way it is with 2014's? 80 lbs?[/QUOTE]

I'd love to hear an answer to this as well. I'm running 72 PSI in the front and rear. So far no LTPWS warning, but I'd rather run it lower for a better ride and tire wear as well.

Subscribed...

I believe your dealer can do this, just not the user!

I am soooo glad my 3500 just displays the pressures, no warning. Put them where I want, no problem. However, I will not get a warning if pressure drops.

 

[EDankievitch]

So there ya have it as per the CFR's we shouldn't be using D rated tires on our 2500/3500 trucks. I can't wait until they tell me what kind of underwear I have to use with my cargo pants. We need to work on getting the Gov out of our daily lives don't they have enough to deal with without regulating the color of the paint I use in my bathroom? Really?

 

[TCDiesel]

Yes, We will do it with WITech, Under the condition the owners sets up his own account with TechAuthority (35.00 for 3 days) give us the Password/ID , the owner can change the Account Password/ID after we are done changing the values to the owner request, I have went as low as 45PSI. Its a legal can of worms if we lower the values on our Account with Ram.

Generally the cost is $70.00 and you get the updates with the $70.00, So if anyone thinks this is overcharging............ the WITech cost about $6000.00 plus $1,250 for annual account.

 

[Badunit]

Hi All,

I purchased a new 2014 2500 CC 4x4 last week. When I took delivery there was 80 lbs pressure in all 4 tires. As you can imagine it was a wild ride home 165 miles away.

Mine were filled to 91 psi. It was a rough ride home.

 

[Too Tall]

More pressure = more MPG and less wear on front suspension components, power steering pump etc.... A little harder ride but acceptable.

 

[JLandry]

...less wear on front suspension components...

Don't you mean less wear on the steering components with higher pressure in the front tires?

If not, please explain.

Thanks,

John L.

 

[Ram4Sam]

I am not an engineer but......... I would think it would be the other way around........a softer tire hits the pothole, the more flexible sidewalls absorb and disipate the energy of hitting the pothole. A harder, more inflated tire, with less flexible sidewalls, more of the energy created from hitting the pothole would pass through the tire to the suspension parts.

Sam

 

[Too Tall]

Don't you mean less wear on the steering components with higher pressure in the front tires?

If not, please explain.

Thanks,

John L.

Yes, sorry, you are right, that's what I meant to say.

 

[photowrite]

I guess the tire weight/inflation charts mean nothing.

Agreed! What a sad situation. I completely understand the liability and politics behind this...which is part of the reason it's "sad".

Grossly overinflated tires do not provide the best overall performance, which includes wear, ride, traction, and safety (traction and safety are intertwined). I received my new '14 2500 last night, and on the short drive home thought it felt firm and bouncy for a new coil-sprung truck. Sure enough, 83 psi in every tire, I lowered the fronts to 52 and the rears to 40, and promptly was blessed with the TPMS warning, but only for the rears thus far.

I've not weighed this new truck yet, might this afternoon, though I have a pretty good ideal of the axle weights as it sits stock and unloaded. Decades of experience with varying loads and appropriately inflating tires for the load (or lack of load) tells me that these 275/70R18 tires (that hold more at maximum compared to the 255 and 285 tires I've been running for many years) likely have plenty of pressure to support the load of the truck at my initial guess psi. I'll consult an inflation chart soon.

Thankfully I've been playing with other trucks and multiple sets of wheels & tires with only one set of TPMS sensors for the past several years, and have become accustomed to ignoring the TPMS light. When new trucks start going into limp mode because of this safety 'feature' I likely won't buy another new heavy-duty truck. I kept the last one for 18 years so I've got a while to think about all this, and a workaround that's acceptable for my use may present itself. I'd MUCH prefer the system explained by 3500 dually owner in this thread.

 

[Bob4x4]

With the 2500 set for light load it calls for 60/45 iirc-that is not grossly over inflated

 

[photowrite]

For me, your 60 PSI in the front is high, I'm not trying to convince you, just sharing with everyone both what I'm comfortable with, as well as the numbers I use, and why. The main issue in my opinion is the lack of user flexibility for a pickup, many of which see a very wide range of both unloaded and loaded use. I think we all agree on that.

Per my '14 2500 door sticker, my front GAWR is 5,750-lb, with LT275/70R18 tires, 60 psi cold is required for that maximum rated front axle load. My stock front axle load is almost 1,000 pounds less.

I weighed my stock, wet, empty truck today:

Steer axle 4,780
Drive axle 2,980
Gross weight 7,760

A bit heavier on the front axle than I thought it might be, but newer tucks are heavy. My psi guesses posted earlier were close and sufficient. The Toyo tire inflation chart I'm currently using, for single-rear-wheel applications shows...

35 psi - 2070
40 - 2270
45 - 2470
50 - 2680
55 - 2840
60 - 3020
65 - 3195
70 - 3360
75 - 3530
80 - 3640

That's a lot of numbers to type, I double checked, but in case I'm off a few (typos). I've always used inflation charts and love them. Of course running extra psi for cooler running in hot weather and/or high speeds is an option, even advisable. However, given the weight of my unloaded truck I could run as little as

45 psi in front and
35 psi in the rear and have enough.

 

[MattandLana]

Photowrite thanks for posting all this info. Are you applying the weight ratings as per-axel or per-tyre. I'm an absolute newbie in this, but from a quick google at least some of the Toyo info seems to be per-axel.

 

[TJJEEPER]

/soapbox on
You have all these "features" on your new trucks because of stupid people.
Tire pressure monitoring because of the Firestone/Ford debacle. 99% of those tire failures were due to under inflation (stupid people) but we're all paying for it.
Notice how you can't start your truck unless it's in neutral and the brake is pressed (or clutch depressed) OR take it out of gear without the brake depressed? From the Audi sudden acceleration incidents. Again brought to you by stupid people. Audi was NEVER able to duplicate the issue in thousands of hours of testing.

Unfortunately stupid people also can not accept responsibility AND they hire lawyers. We all pay the higher prices for our vehicles because they have these "protect you from yourself" features.
/soapbox off

 

[photowrite]

Photowrite thanks for posting all this info. Are you applying the weight ratings as per-axel or per-tyre. I'm an absolute newbie in this, but from a quick google at least some of the Toyo info seems to be per-axel.

The axle weight ratings (GAWR = gross axle weight rating) are per axle, and the tire load carrying data is per individual tire. The actual gross weight on each tire would be nice to know/ideal, but that's impractical as most scales are drive-on and weigh an axle. While there are surely some side-to-side differences, as a general rule I use the measured axle loads and divide by two to get my minimum on-highway tire psi. If you want a little cushion for an uneven load, add more psi to the tires (if I do this I do both tires, I like all my tires on the same axle at the same psi). My Two Toyota 4WDs seem to be more lopsided than my diesels have ever been, with a heavy driver's side and list once the OE suspension is removed for aftermarket stuff.

So if/when you know your truck's empty/light weight, as well as its loaded weight, you can use tire load carrying data to help chose your pressures. The key in knowing, and knowing involves measuring these values, I've heard and seen far too many inaccurate guesses that were not based on any measured data! Paying to weight your truck ($10 here for me) is a few dollars well spent. Under inflated and/or overheated tires are extremely dangerous, you need enough psi, whatever that is, which is why everything is biased toward the top now.

Some of the reason we have this TPMS mess is because many (most?) folks don't know or understand this stuff (or much a bout driving and machinery) these days, won't take the time to learn, and so many things are liability-focused and designed for the lowest common denominator.

 

[photowrite]

I could not agree more sir. Some of these features are pretty cool, and we might not mind having them if they were primarily designed as features/accessories, instead of to compensate for past ignorance and/or lawsuits.

/soapbox on
You have all these "features" on your new trucks because of stupid people.
Tire pressure monitoring because of the Firestone/Ford debacle. 99% of those tire failures were due to under inflation (stupid people) but we're all paying for it.
Notice how you can't start your truck unless it's in neutral and the brake is pressed (or clutch depressed) OR take it out of gear without the brake depressed? From the Audi sudden acceleration incidents. Again brought to you by stupid people. Audi was NEVER able to duplicate the issue in thousands of hours of testing.

Unfortunately stupid people also can not accept responsibility AND they hire lawyers. We all pay the higher prices for our vehicles because they have these "protect you from yourself" features.
/soapbox off

 

[Too Tall]

Okay here is the story as I know it. I spent part of the afternoon reading part 49 of the CFR to see what I could understand on the TPMS rule. Seems the rule is TPMS must and only has to use the original maximum psi for the tire since the load for the vehicle is not known. Thats truly the long and short of it. The measurements only have to comply with the original set of tires that came on the vehicle first time purchase. So it looks like I will have to live with the 60 and 80 pound settings as thats what is on my truck today. Should I buy new tires supposily I am to purchase tires equal to or those that exceed my original tire size and rating. Thats how the DOT rule reads. Just thought I would pass this along. This applies to any vehicle 10k pounds and under.

Thanks, good to know. My sticker says 65 and 80 but I run 70 in the front and 80 in the back. Rides fine and I suspect there's less wear (less friction) on those no lube fitting on the front end.

 

[photowrite]

Does anyone here know what happens if you completely remove the TPMS sensors, as in running a set of wheels without the sensors installed?

Maybe just the TPMS yellow light would be illuminated, but the psi display screen might not flash numbers because there is no data available?

 

[Cummins12V98]

I easily get 100K and more from BFG's and Michelin's on my Red 98 4X4. Most say I am bull of Barbara Streisand. I run 72 front and 45 rear. Most under inflate the fronts and have edge wear from turning and most over inflate the rears and have center wear.

Do what you want but that's well over 1,000,000 miles of experience and awesome tire longevity.

 

[Powder Extreme]

Is your '98 a dually? I've seen 80k before Michelin's were shot on my '01 dually, but I've never seen much over 40k on SRW, the torque just tears up the rear tires when towing.