Get a set of replacement ARP head studs, do not reuse the existing head bolts. You will new a new Head Gasket also. Get new copper washers for under the Injectors. All other gaskets can be reused as long as they are not damaged. You will need a fairly large engine hoist to lift the head. It weighs about 200# and will be stuck fairly good to the top of the block.
I assume you have a new head? If so, check that it is flat. If you re-use the existing head, you might want to inspect all the valves, possibly replace the valve guides, and put a high-rev spring kit on. You will want to have the head checked for straightness and possibly have it decked if necessary. If you are going to play with High HP, get the head O-Ringed.
Take you time with this, as proper installation will last a long time, but a quick 1-2 job will not last.
You will need a new thermostat gasket and anti-freeze. I would suggest waiting until the engine is cool before performing this work. It is an all day job, maybe 14 hours to perform this work (properly, although it can be performed in less, it is better to take your time and properly torque the studs).
Disconnect lower radiator hose and drain anti-freeze from system. Remove Upper Radiator Cooling Hose Elbow from Head (three bolts).
Remove the Bolts from the Exhaust manifold, and push it out of the way slightly. You might need to remove the air box for room. There are stainless steel gaskets between the exhaust manifold and head. Check the bottom of the manifold carefully, as it might be cracked/broken. This is a common problem on these trucks.
Disconnect and remove the Air Intake Horne.
Remove APPS housing (there is a wire at the bottom, ensure that you disconnect it before you pull up too hard on the APPS housing).
Remove the Fuel Lines, Valve Cover, Fuel Crossover Tubes, and Injectors. You will need to remove the rear lifting bracket on the back right side of the head to get #6 fuel lines disconnected. After pulling this line, tube, and injector, re-attach the lifting bracket.
Break Down the Upper Valve Train. Pull out the Push rods, keep note which equipment came from which cylinder). There are grommets in holes in the cowling for cylinders 5 and 6 to get the push rods out.
Loosen and head bolts and throw them away (Do not re-use these bolts).
Disconnect the Fuel Return Line at the back of the head. It has a Banjo Bolt at the extreme back. There is a washer between the bolt and the head that usually sticks to the head.
Connect an engine hoist to the lifting points on the head and begin to jack up. It will take a good amount of force to pull the head off, but not too much. if it does not want to budge, you can pry slightly on the head with the up pressure from the lift, and it will pop off. Be careful when pulling, as you do not want to twist the head.
Once the head is off, , thoroughly clean everything. Use Q-Tips to remove all the oil from all bolt holes. Use an angle grinder loaded with Scotch Bright pads to clean the top of the block until it is almost a mirror finish. Clean very thoroughly around the two alignment pins. Cleaning will take some time. Inspect the Pistons for any damage.
Install the new Head gasket on the top of the block. Line up the new head, and set it gently in place. Ensure that you do not pinch the new gasket. The head might not go down easily on the block, so carefully line it up.
Once it is down, crank in the new studs. In the ARP Package, some studs are longer than others. The longer studs go on the left side where the exhaust manifold is. The shorter studs go everywhere else.
I personally leave the studs dry when I screw them in, but you can lube them or even clean out the threads in the block with a TAP. This is entirely up to you here, but I have seen TAPs break off in the block (Major issue). Once the stud bottoms out, back it out 1/2 turn. If you do not back the stud out, it can expand (thermal expansion), bottom out, and snap off in the block (major issue).
At this point, start installing the stud washers and nuts. Thoroughly lube the washers with the Moly-lube that comes with the studs. Once all the nuts are installed, start torquing to 20ft/lbs, carefully watching that the head seats down evenly. You will need to do this many times around and around.
Now to the time consuming part:
To torque, start in the center, and work your self around in a clockwise fashion from the center out to the end of the block. I would work up in 20 ft/lb increments up to 80 ft/lbs, then go in 10 ft/lb increments to 100 ft/lbs, the 5 ft/lb increments to 120 ft/lbs. Remember before each torque of the stud, loosen the nut with another wrench about 1/2 turn.
Once you hit 120 ft/lbs, re-assemble the head, and put the entire engine back together (reverse of removal). Start the engine, and let it idle until it comes up to temperature; then shut off and walk away for about 4 hours to cool.
Remove the Valve Cover, dis-assemble the upper valve train, and loosen and re-torque the head studs to 120 ft/lbs again. You will only need to loosen the nuts on the studs 1/2 turn, then re-torque. Do them 1 at a time, do not loosen all the nuts at once.
Re-assemble the engine one more time, and you are done. Do not drive the truck hard for a few weeks (and a few re-torques), as the new items will shift around, the gasket will compress, and the head will need re-torqued mutiple times.
Drive the truck for 1 day, very easily, and let it cool off. Re-Torque again, this time increasing to 125 ft/lbs.
Drive for 1 week, very easily, and let it cool off. Re-Torque again to 130 ft/lbs.
Drive the truck for another week, very easily, and let it cool of. Re-Torque again to 135 ft/lbs.
You will feel the studs stop moving after a while. You will need to re-torque again and again until they stop moving. It might take a few weeks before this happens, but if you fail to re-torque the studs, you will blow the head gasket at high boost PSI#s.
This is just a suggestion, but I have done a few of these before for high HP#s, so take what info you like. It is not a hard process, it just takes a lot of time to do correctly.
Just my $0. 02
-Rich
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