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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Head Studs and gaskets

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Truck Cranks but wont start

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) ARP Head Studs.

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John, i saw this post and fig id throw my two cents here too :). as far as studs i knw there are ones for round 500 and ones ofer a grand what gives?
 
the $500 ones you just put in the ones for a grand you have to drill the head and block. i found out most of the time the guys running triple digit boost numbers use them. i can tell you that i wont need the ones for a grand
 
The 1k dollar studs are commonly referred to as "625's". They are also a direct swap in but are even stronger than the standard. The studs that require drilling are 14mm rather than the stock 12mm.

-Scott
 
The 1k dollar studs are commonly referred to as "625's". They are also a direct swap in but are even stronger than the standard. The studs that require drilling are 14mm rather than the stock 12mm.



-Scott



so what ones should we be buying???
 
yes im in NC and the PbyP is a Crack on olle poole After Falling out with him like 80% of people around here I had an anonymous friend (Jack) take my head to be o ringed so he wouldn't sabotage it I then couldn't resist advertising to him that I had done it so I put that into my sig. Im not gona say you won't build a long lasting relationship with him just saying most don't and go to farmboys. They Do deck the head some during the oring process its a simple thing and you can buy the tool to cut the grooves for like $280 but its worth the expirience that a shop has to get it right. 625 studs are overkill unless its a full blown pro puller with a twin set that can push like 100psi +.
 
I know this is an old post but I figured I would chime in anyway. I got the ARP studs that fit and did one at a time, left the stock head gasket. Put it on the dyno a week ago. Boost went up to 54 with no problems. As a rule 50 is the max I go with stock head gasket but I feel like I can do 60 with no problems. Putting in 150 injectors this weekend.
 
yes im in NC and the PbyP is a Crack on olle poole After Falling out with him like 80% of people around here I had an anonymous friend (Jack) take my head to be o ringed so he wouldn't sabotage it I then couldn't resist advertising to him that I had done it so I put that into my sig. Im not gona say you won't build a long lasting relationship with him just saying most don't and go to farmboys. They Do deck the head some during the oring process its a simple thing and you can buy the tool to cut the grooves for like $280 but its worth the expirience that a shop has to get it right. 625 studs are overkill unless its a full blown pro puller with a twin set that can push like 100psi +.



well i can tell you i am not overly impressed with his operation. that butt head charged me $20 for an oil filter. the only reason is he knew he had the one i wanted and was the only one around that had it in stock. i called him about the o-ring job and i dont think i will use him,,, i am sure he is smart but he thinks hes a know it all and i dont like dealing with people like that. i am sure if he messed something up he would never own up to it.
 
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I know this is an old post but I figured I would chime in anyway. I got the ARP studs that fit and did one at a time, left the stock head gasket. Put it on the dyno a week ago. Boost went up to 54 with no problems. As a rule 50 is the max I go with stock head gasket but I feel like I can do 60 with no problems. Putting in 150 injectors this weekend.





i think i am going to run it your way, i have had my studs for a while and i have 2 weeks off starting wed and i am going to TRY and put them in thursday moring. I will be ordering the twins pretty soon after i install them. I hate being busy, when do we get to do the stuff we want to do???? LOL
 
Put my twins on about a month back. Now I need more fuel, hence the 150 injecotrs. I was real dissapointed with my dyno numbers; only 363 HP and 850 Ftlbs of torque. I am shootin for 500 and I think the injectors should do it. The injection pump I have on is a High Output model and with the 150 FASS I hope to have enough fuel to catch up with the air I am putting out with the BD twins.



Time is always the issue, but the hardest part of what I have done was the head studs so you have the worst behind you. Putting the twins on was pretty straight forward once all the pieces of the puzzle came togehter. Good luck and have fun putting on the twins.
 
Put my twins on about a month back. Now I need more fuel, hence the 150 injecotrs. I was real dissapointed with my dyno numbers; only 363 HP and 850 Ftlbs of torque. I am shootin for 500 and I think the injectors should do it. The injection pump I have on is a High Output model and with the 150 FASS I hope to have enough fuel to catch up with the air I am putting out with the BD twins.



Time is always the issue, but the hardest part of what I have done was the head studs so you have the worst behind you. Putting the twins on was pretty straight forward once all the pieces of the puzzle came togehter. Good luck and have fun putting on the twins.



Those numbers seem awful low, unless you are currently running stock injectors. I was getting 389/892 with Edge EZ, 80hp injectors and Water/Meth injection, on a stock turbo.
 
I know I am real low. I was running RV injectors - 50 HP. I put in 150 HP last night and now I need to dyno it again. I had a BD hot rod Injection pump on it but it went out about 6 months ago and I got talked into putting on a 145 HD which just doesn't put out the fuel I need, With the 150 injectors I hope to get the 500 HP. I kicked it down going on to the freeway today and it jumped to 50 pumps of boost and the speedo was heading south very quickly when I blew a boost hose. That will be my next problem, using the hairspray and good clamps just a lot of boost real fast. I put a Tectronics inter-cooler on it and I had to make an extra pipe to make it fit so now I have another hose to worry about. I will get it, want to get it on the 1/4 mile track in Jan. Goals are, daily dependable driver, 500 hp and 13s in the quarter. I think all of them are possible with just a little more work. I knew the twins were going to need more fuel, was hoping the RV injectors would do it. I bust the back tires free at 50 mph now so I think I am getting there. (The road was damp but not wet) running 12. 50 Nitto mudders on it so it is a lot of rubber to break free. All just a very "expensive" learning process.
 
well the studs are installed as of last night and boy what a pain that is. i am not looking forward to the re torque. How many times do yall think i need to do that? what should i torque them too? i am at 130lbs right now... How much boost do you think i an run and not worry?



i have the stock gasket and did the replace one at a time install... .
 
I re torqued once and checked it once. That seems to have been enough, i have had no problems to this date. I only torqued mine to 122 ftlbs, one at a time. Did you replace your head gasket or just put in the new arp studs. It is a real pain in the *** to re-torque and I just don't think that they stretch all that much. Guys doing it three or four times have a lot more energy than I do. My problem is boost hoses, head studs seem to be doing fine.
 
I followed the Source Automotive recommendations for the ARP studs (yep, all 4 re-torques) on my OEM head gasket.

Only need to pull the exhaust rockers, so it is not that much extra work. Maybe 30min of my time start to finish. Having a second 12pt socket helps, 2 torque wrenches (1/2 & 3/8), and a 1/2 x 24"+ breaker bar.

I don't know if it is the altitude here in Denver, but with the Jammer 3 injectors, Edge Comp, Stock over S400 twins... I have yet to break 50 psi of boost. I doubt I have a bad leak, since I hold 20 - 22psi @ 80mph flat highway cruising.

Have not dynoed yet, maybe this layoff season.
 
Your truck should be all dry bores. Just make sure you clean and dry out the holes before install. A hand held vacuum pump, and brake clean works great for that.
 
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