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Headlights turn back on

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Dropped the driveshaft..

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satmike

TDR MEMBER
I turn off my headlights turn off the truck and after a little bit the headlights go back on. They do shut off when I turn them off initially. I have to remove the battery grounds to get them to go off.
I replaced the relays thinking something was bleeding through but still have the same problem they come back on. Any Ideas would be great.
Thanks Mike
 
Ordered a switch just to check. No not stock wiring harness. Rewired with relays. Replaced relays today, thought I had it fixed lights on lights off worked good . Shut it down came in the house and the lights back on by themselves.
 
Do the headlights stay on when they return to on after initial shutdown, no 90 seconds shutoff?
Are the taillights and parking lights also coming on?
Is it low beam, or high beam?
Any issues with the remote lock/unlock functions? Do the dome and courtesy lights come on, too? Are your headlights coming on and go off when you unlock or lock with the fob?
Depending on symptoms, maybe CTM issue, multifunction, light, ignition switches? I'd have to break out the schematics to see where the headlights source and distribute the power.
I see you have the SLT+. Any special highline options?
Does your modified lighting wiring to go through relays to the headlights. Is this through the stock light plugs to a relay and power distribution board, or cut and spliced into the stock harness?
 
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The headlights turn off then go back on but I don't how long it takes to go back on. no taillights or markers. it's the low beams that stay on. No problems with the remote lock. Dome lights turn off with the remote lock, remote does not effect headlights on off.
Slt+ options, heated seats, heated mirrors. Those work correctly
My wiring is spliced into stock harness. Yes relays before lights. I also put sport headlights in, The high beams work normally.
I put a new switch in, no change
 
You've got to be getting power to the low beam relay for the light to come on or you have a bad relay.
 
I know on my 01 the headlights were ground switched not 12v+ switched. I had a different problem but somewhat similar they would not shut off at all unless I pulled the battery cable. Turned out to be my "bright box" (the device that let you use both high and low at the same time or was it fogs and high beams, no matter) had failed somehow and was keeping the ground flowing. I had totally forgotten about the brite box. Tried a new switch checked all my relays etc. I also had converted to sport lights. Then I finally remembered the brite box or found it as I was tracing the wires back from the housings. It looked in pretty bad shape took it out of the picture and they started working fine.
 
Check relays for moisture and or tracking. Had that issue happen on my plow wiring. One night, walked by the window and the running lights were on! Found that a sealed relay had moisture in it! :eek: Redid the wiring to move to better location, changed the relay and all is good. Wiring will make you pull your hair out, if you have any left from all the other mods! :rolleyes: :D
 
Just an out of the blue question. Does your Panic button work, flashing lights and activating horn? If so, most of the OEM wiring and circuits "should" be OK.
Do you have a schematic for the headlight wiring modification? How many relays are involved and are they switching grounds as well as power? High beams and low beams on separate or same circuits? Most "hard" faults may cause the "power on" situation at all times, and not wait until you get in the house to look out your window just to tease you with a time delay.
Leads me to look at the harness modification more closely. As others mentioned, moisture, wet relays (internal and external current tracking), faulty coils or contacts and "external" circuit influences can all lead to mysterious actions.
Do your lights remain on with a short time delay to allow you to get to a normally dark destination when you lock the vehicle, or do they go out upon locking. I had my '02 for 16 years and have forgotten the simplest of the nuances of its operations. Had to make room in the organic memory retainer for the detailed complexities of my '20 along with all the other good things in life.
In a nutshell, it would be helpful to know what the harness modification looks like and how it was designed to operate and interact with the OEM harness. Almost like a hung relay or bad contacts somewhere causing power feedback, or bad filament/corroded bulb contacts. Leaning to an open shared ground somewhere. Just need schematic or detailed explanation of circuit design.
So many creative ways those sneaky electrons find by taking the path of least resistance to them attractive protons.
 
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Thanks for all your help. They are working. Don't know that I fixed them, but good for now. Everything else is working perfectly. They started turning on and off. So no way to find a leaking ground. I went through the wiring harness looking, pulling, twisting and didn't see any problems. I am confident the problem is in the wiring even though I can't find anything. I'm not worried about a computer problem as everything else works, panic button,dome lights and everything else. I know there is a problem but have to wait for it to show up again. I reconfigured my grounds so I can just disconnect them if the lights do it again and not disable the whole truck.
Thanks again Mike
 
Thanks for all your help. They are working. Don't know that I fixed them, but good for now. Everything else is working perfectly. They started turning on and off. So no way to find a leaking ground. I went through the wiring harness looking, pulling, twisting and didn't see any problems. I am confident the problem is in the wiring even though I can't find anything. I'm not worried about a computer problem as everything else works, panic button,dome lights and everything else. I know there is a problem but have to wait for it to show up again. I reconfigured my grounds so I can just disconnect them if the lights do it again and not disable the whole truck.
Thanks again Mike
The "wiggle the wiring bundle" fix. It's valid, until the next most inopportune moment arises. An electrical subset of Murphy's Law. :eek:;):D
Wouldn't hurt to visually observe each splice/connection along with a tug-n-wiggle with a redo on anything that looks remotely deficient. AKA, preventative maintenance.
Glad it's operational again and the magic smoke remained in the wiring and components.
Have a most safe and happy Thanksgiving and only be minimally affected by the onset of the obligatory turkey coma zombification.
 
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I went through my wiring harness and replaced a few connectors and checked all splices. I found a hot wire that wasn't used and wasn't taped up. I think that was where I was triggering the relay and fixed it.
I am much more confident that I found the problem.
Thanks again Mike
 
I went through my wiring harness and replaced a few connectors and checked all splices. I found a hot wire that wasn't used and wasn't taped up. I think that was where I was triggering the relay and fixed it.
I am much more confident that I found the problem.
Thanks again Mike
Thanks for the follow-up. Always nice to understand and learn by each other's experiences.
Happy Turkey Coma day! (The day after Tryptophan Thursday)
 
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