2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission heavier brake setup???

[cluckmaster]

Hey, what's the best value on performance brake packages (rotors/calipers/pads)? I had my rotors resurfaced last winter and put on a set of Hawk metallic performace pads, and I'm already feeling the shudder when I break from worn out rotors. Last time the pads were still good when the rotors wore out and I'm sure it'll be the same this time. I feel like the rotors should last a little longer.



I'm also running 35's and would like a little better braking power. WHo's the best option for some heavier equipment? And what kind of mileage can I expect on a set of rotors? I'd say I drive fairly conservatively, but I'm also on little country backroads w/ lots of stop signs alot and in heavy beach traffic the rest of the time. Thanks!!! -Josh

 

[RON'S RAM]

Hey Josh,

I don't know the best options as far as rotors & pads, but I can tell you my experience with getting more braking power. I replaced my rear wheel cylinders with the Chevy one ton wheel cylinders. The extra stopping power is very noticeable. Sometimes it may be a little too aggressive. If the truck is empty and I cross painted lines or railroad crossings while braking, the rear brakes tend to lockup easy. Haven't had the chance to try it in the snow since we haven't really had any yet. If I did it again, I'd probably go with the Dodge one ton rear wheel cylinders. They are a little smaller than Chevy's yet bigger than the Dodge 2500 trucks. Either way, it is an inexpensive and fairly simple way to get additional braking power.

Good luck,

Ron

 

[cluckmaster]

where can i get the rear wheel cylinder from a 1 ton dodge or chevy? Is it a direct replacement or is there some modification necessary? Thanks! -Josh

 

[San Felipe Bob]

Any good sized auto parts store

Any good sized auto parts store will have the wheel cylinders.

I used the Dodge 1 ton cyl. they are 1-1/16" dia.

You can put the Chevy 1 tons in but they have been known to cause the rear brakes to lock up under heavy braking and an empty bed.

IE Rear skid.

I've been very happy with the 1-1/16".

If you want your front brakes to last a long time lube your caliper pins every 1000 miles.



SFB

Check out my readers rig gallery here on the TDR for more brake tips and tricks...

SFB

 

[JWestley]

You can check out www.EGRbrakes.com they do a lot of bigger truck brakes.

 

[JessePayne]

I recently installed egr slotted rotors,blueprint calipers, egr pads, 1 ton wheel cylinders egr brake shoes, and stainless brake lines on my truck. Kind of pricey but I am very happy with the improvement. Also Powerslot makes good cross slotted rotors from what I hear.

 

[Nate]

I run Chevy 1 3/16" bore cylinders. I don't think there was any different AT ALL between them and the stock ones other than the brake pedal travels down a tad farther.

 

[Cummins724]

Hey, what's the best value on performance brake packages (rotors/calipers/pads)? I had my rotors resurfaced last winter and put on a set of Hawk metallic performace pads, and I'm already feeling the shudder when I break from worn out rotors. Last time the pads were still good when the rotors wore out and I'm sure it'll be the same this time. I feel like the rotors should last a little longer.



I'm also running 35's and would like a little better braking power. WHo's the best option for some heavier equipment? And what kind of mileage can I expect on a set of rotors? I'd say I drive fairly conservatively, but I'm also on little country backroads w/ lots of stop signs alot and in heavy beach traffic the rest of the time. Thanks!!! -Josh

Exhaust brake would be your best bet!

 

[cluckmaster]

I thought you couldn't put an exhaust brake on a truck w/ an auto. Is that not the case?

 

[Cummins724]

I thought you couldn't put an exhaust brake on a truck w/ an auto. Is that not the case?

I never heard of that... . they make inline brakes or turbo mounted. It is by far the best thing that I've done to my rig as far as braking. I pull trailers through mountains & hardly ever touch my brakes. I never heard of a automatic not being able to use a exhaust brake, but I may be wrong.

 

[jtwcummins]

I put an Exhaust Brake on just over 6 yrs ago. Absolutely the best thing for towing you can get. Also use when driving on the hiway, only turn off in city traffic. Put complete EGR front setup on about 5yrs ago and haven't had any braking issues. With stock rear drums you have to keep adjusted, every oil change worked for me. About 3 yrs back replaced the rear shoes. Used EGR Kevlars with the larger wheel cylinder and HD hardware kit. Don't even think much about brakes now, a total non issue. The rears self adjust now and get straight line stops all the time.

About every 2 yrs I feel a very slight front pull under hard braking. This tells me it's time to clean and relube disc brakes friction surfaces on front. Do it when I rotate the tires.

Also, I have the brake system flushed about every 2 yrs. Was paying $65 to get done, but bought a pwr bleeder for about $80 and do it myself.

 

[BTowler]

I thought you couldn't put an exhaust brake on a truck w/ an auto. Is that not the case?

Not without an aftermarket transmission and a controller.

 

[jtwcummins]

I ran an exhaust brake for several yrs with stock trans. I have only had my DTT for a yr. The setup from banks had a contoller, extra cost, as do most of the EBs from other companies. Without a way to keep TC locked the EB is useless. The add on controller also controled a vac solenoid that applies full pump line pressure to the trans when the brake is on. From personal experience, I wouldn't put off getting an EB if you are going to tow.

Crossing between Reno and Sacramento on I80 and thru the grapvine in So Cal I never have to use the service brakes. I do turn off OD on a couple of sections to get more RPM and better EB performance.

 

[DMcPherson]

I use the power slot rotors, and raybestos extreme duty pads. the improvement was great. the rotors make a good difference, mostly in getting rid of the brake fade that the truck used to have. they were cheaper than stock replacements too.

 

[cluckmaster]

I'm thinking about going w/ new calipers and lines from EGR, rotors from EGR or Power Slot, pads from EGR or Hawk (I have Hawk severe duty metallic pads now), rear shoes from NAPA and the one ton Dodge cylinders. Does that sound like a decent improvement? I'm only not going all EGR b/c of the cost. Are the EGR rotors and calipers actually bigger diameter? Is it possible to run Power Slots w/ EGR calipers? Thanks. -Josh

 

[VolsFan]

I just put the powerslot rotors and Hawk severe duty pads on my truck and it was a noticeable difference, the truck stops much better and no more shuddering. It took some time to get the stock rotors off, but it was well worth the aggrivation. I got mine off of autoanything.com, they offer the best deals that i have seen, plus free shipping. As stated above, definitely lube the caliper pins.











1999 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4, ext. cab, 4. 10, 4" straight pipe, AEM intake, rebuilt 47re, Mickey Thompson Classic II's with 285/75/16's, Stewart Warner boost, egt, transmission temp on A-pillar, Westach fuel pressure guage in cubby hole, superchips, limo tint all around

 

[B KIRK]

Whatever you do, avoid EBC brake products.

I had a set of their "Diesel Pads" that cracked and crumbled apart.

Only 250 miles on them, and they refused warranty.

That was through Brakes-R-Us, AVOID THEM.

Just my personel experience with their products.



Brad

 

[Regcabguy]

EGR rear discs=stopping power

I tried everything imaginable and finally resorted to the EGR rear disc conversion. Slightly spongier pedal than stock and a sub-par parking brake but the sucker stops! If anyone's looking for a primo '99 that stops as well as it runs,it's in the classifieds. P. S. The rear shoes@maybe 45,000 were heat cracked. Hard to believe when I could swear there was no rear brakes back there!

 

[cluckmaster]

What about the EGR kevlar lines? Are they worth the $190 price tag? Skyjacker makes a set of braided steel brake lines for $55, but not sure if they come w/ the brackets. And are the pads that much better than say Hawk pads? $170 vs. $70 is a big difference.



I'm thinking EGR calipers, maybe lines, power slot rotors, Hawk pads, and I'm not sure on the shoes yet. Also going to get the 1 ton cylinders. Can't afford the disc conversion yet.



My brakes decided to go about the same time as some of my front end parts so I'm trying to cut costs b/c I want to definitely go w/ Thuren's crossover steering rather than NAPA tierods. And I think my lower ball joints are going again. And my steering's worn out (thinking PSC box and borgeson shaft). :{