When it comes to floating valves on forced induction engines, the best way to determine this is on a dyno. The problem is exaggerated by big psi and high rpm.
Basically, some of the air charge is being forced back into the intake. In our application, this means small divits in our power due to a momentary loss of compression. On supercharged vehicles, this usually follows a set number of valve actuations per rpm. Don't know why, but it does. Kind of like a resonance with weight being a factor.
The stronger spring helps control all that weight in motion. And, it helps to decerate the valve and help it ride the closing ramp back down. There is as much to this as total spring strength coupled with spring rate.
While a stock truck probably won't have this issue, it does not take much fuel to add pressure and add some rpm... . you are now working the springs, and everything else, much harder.
I would definately recommend the springs to anyone doing a cam swap. While not required on the Helix 1, I would think the added lift and lobe profile of the Helix 2 would be a good idea. I have not seen a 1 or 3, so I can't comment on profiles. I did, however, completely check out my cam in the engine to be sure it was dialed. This is after Don M did the same thing with a dummy block in his shop.
As far as your question Vaughn, simple answer is I do not know. It would require somene that has an better understanding of the materials, stress points, work load and system dynamics to answer that question.
My gut says that there are ways to lighten the valve train to gain efficency, but I think that would be mostly a lost cause on the vast majority of street trucks. high RPM race and sled pullers with hardened billet cams would get the most benefit. For the rest of us, I think the springs are a prudent and logical upgrade when doing a cam.
JMO.
Dave