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Helix cams

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Want Muffler...But No Drone

Diesel_Dan...The man for FASS issues!!!

Cool, thanks for the info. I have always used TORCO assembly lube. I have been in to VW's for my whole life, and the company I buy from (Gene Berg) swears by the stuff. It seems like its pretty good stuff, although, i guess you cant really tell, other than i haven't had a cam go flat in any of my motors, which is why they like it. They had some problems with cams taking a crap in new motors. They later told me they traced it to a metalurgy problem between the cams and the lifters they were using. But i stuck with the stuff. Probably out of superstition more than anything. LOL
 
Redline makes a great assembly lube, but it's tricky to work with because it's so dang slippery! It dissolves in oil completely, too.

jh
 
lithium works very well, but you need to change at least your oil filter after using it... it'll clog it up in a big hurry.



that's why good assembly lubes dissolve completely in oil...
 
Ok, another question. I see that there is the option for a bolt on cam gear vs press on. I thought all our motors had press on gears. Did i miss something. With the bolt on gear is it adjustable so we can dial the cam in?
 
rubberneck,



The bolt on gear is more of a gear security issue..... With this option the gear is assured of staying on the cam. The bolted on gear does not allow for adjusting (dial-in) the cam.



As for your tappet question above, you do not need to change out the tappets due to the metallergy of the cam. I have installed several of these cams with original lifters used and all worked well.



Doug
 
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cool thanks for the reply. I assume you have the bolt on gears for sale also, or do i need to go to cummins? You guys just arent going to quit until you convince me to use the original tappets are you?? LOL :p
 
The blanks for the press on gear and the bolt on gear are not interchangeable. Meaning, you have to pick the one you want before you even start.



I was completely sold on the bolt on gear. After all, it has a stinking bolt in it to hold the gear on. But, after doing a bunch of reading and talking to Don in PMs, I came to the conclusion I did not need the bolt on gear.



The VP takes far less horsepower to turn than the older stlye 12Valve pumps. So, the chance of the gear "walking" off the cam is extremely remote. So, the press on gear was the choice for me.



If you were running a P pumped truck that was all cranked up, I wouldn't even consider a press on gear. And if you had seen teh two side by side, you would see that the collar engages further on the press on gear. You aren't gonna shear off the end of the cam.



And I don't work for Don! I am just happy that my fuel delivery issues are resolved. And the reason I can sing the praises of this product is because it does work. Believe me, if it didn't, I would be as opposed as I am positive right now.



Don builds great products and cares about his customers. He truely is one of the best guys I have ever had the pleasure to deal with. And that means nothing when it's time to spend my hard earned on the best product for me.



So, talk with everyone you can. I spoke with Piers, DD, Don, the local shops and anyone else that would take the time to field a question. That's what these purchases demand. lot's of homework. Because you can't go to the local Auto-plex and pick up these parts. Often, we wait and wait, then wait some more, then go throught the install process in the hopes that it'll be what we want.



I don't think you can go wrong with this product.



Dave
 
My 03 manual shows a bolted gear, isn't the bolted gear a 3rd gen change?

I would think a bolted gear would be more easy to change out because gear removal in the truck would make for allot less engine lift to clear the cross member.



Also with a bolted gear you could set up a leverage handle to minimize risk of scoring a cam bearing both coming out and back in.
 
Matt, I am a big dummy when it comes to 3rd gens. The limit of what I know in regard to these cams is that it really uncorks them.



I'm sure Doug knows the answer to that one!



BTW, I made a tool that made the cam install easier. Basicall a hook with a small "pusher " arm on the bottom. Worked like a champ!!



Dave
 
Fishin Guide said:
I made a tool that made the cam install easier. Basicall a hook with a small "pusher " arm on the bottom. Worked like a champ!!

Sounds neat Dave, I will need to figure something for that, I have done gassers but never one on a Cummins and my guess is that cam is pretty heavy.
 
Matt, it is heavy! But the biggest factor is the length. Once you get to that last lobe, the entire cam has to hit the other journals as well. If it's right, it's right.



Only took about 10 minutes the first time to stab it. But it fought a little until that point.



Dave
 
Fishin Guide said:
So, talk with everyone you can. I spoke with Piers, DD, Don, the local shops and anyone else that would take the time to field a question. That's what these purchases demand. lot's of homework. Because you can't go to the local Auto-plex and pick up these parts. Often, we wait and wait, then wait some more, then go throught the install process in the hopes that it'll be what we want.



I don't think you can go wrong with this product.



Dave





I hear you on this, I have a whole lot of products in my garage, that did not work as advertised. When i first bought the truck, if it was new or promised more, i had to have it. Well I got tired of being part of the test group, so now i like to see how things work out over time. The cream will rise to the top so to speak. On that same note, i have dealt with don before and he was very prompt and polite, and i do really like his injectors compared to what i had run before. To be honest, at this point, im as excited about putting the mechanical lift pump on as i am any added performance, that will be just gravy. like you, i have nuked my share of pusher/lift pumps, both oem and aftermarket.
 
So if they are press on and you can dial in the press on ones I would assume there is no key then. If thats the case how do you get the gear in the correct position if you don't want to or don't have a dial indicator?
 
There is a key, at least there is on a 12 valve. The only time i've touched a cam in one of these was Brandon's 12v and it had a key. perhaps offset keys to dial it in. Im assuming that for the masses, dialing in would provide little to no benefit, and we are stuck relying on the fact that the cam was ground correctly and everything on the motor is good enough that the cam timing will be close enough for desired effects. Maybe if we were building some radicall all out hp motor, then dialing in would matter. Dont know, but im sure somebody that does know will chime in
 
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