rubberneck said:Ok, to get this thread, back on track, this is what i have learned. Helix 3 all out HP cam. Jetpilot just made more hp on a vp44 than anyone using this cam and some of dons experimental injectors. Helix 2 quicker spool, smoother acceleration and increased top end. Good for us "moderately bombed" guys. A couple of members have chimed in who have this one and seem to love it. Valve springs needed (highly recomended) with this one. Haven't heard from anyone with a Helix 1 grind. hopefully someone will chime in. All the cams have lobe for mechanical lift pump Oo. No need to replace tappets, which will definitely make install easier. Besides the special handle tool you made fishing guide, anything else we should know about?? any tips if you were doing it again? Guess it's time to get out the credit card.
Honestly, there are not many specil tools. And every one of them could be made.
You will need a tray. A piece of aluminum tubing would be best, but I have heard of folks using exhaust tubing. This would need to be cut lengthwise a little above the centerline. You would also need to cap the end and this cap must fit to the inside of the tube. This takes the place of the camshaft for installing/ uninstalling the tappets. You need wood dowels. Available at any hardware store. You need a single dowel with a 3/4" (approx) cuphook and you need a long piece of nylon string with a small rubber plug in the end. This has to fit into the tappets and be a very snug fit. Again, available at hardware stores. And lastly, a handful of heavy rubber bands. All of this stuff is available in kit form, but I have no idea a to cost. I was able to procure a loaner kit.
There is not a special tool needed for stabbing the cam. It can be and is commonly done by just hanging on to the gear.
You need the wrenches to remove the fan.
You will need to have access to a press to get the gear off. I paid $4. 50 to get the gear off at a local shop. Yes, you can do this at home, but beating on the cam is not the answer!! You will then need an F1 Diesel approved heating device. This will be your significant others "oven". You need to heat the gear and install onto the new cam. Mine required final seating with a brass drift and a ballpeen.
If you are going to change the valave springs, Cummins makes a trick little tool that allows them to be done with the head on. It's about $40.
The only other special tool you need is your head. Go slow, plan your next move, check and recheck everything. And, above all else, you must use good common sense!
The major pitfalls are limited to incorrect installation of hard parts and fasteners, A/C discharge, and dropping tappets into the motor.
Now, the last one I now all about. I had a dowel come loose and dropped one tappet on the #5 cylinder. I had to drain the oil, remove all the pan bolts and slide the pan to the passengers side. I then used a pen magnet to fish it out. Added about 1/2 hour to my install. I do NOT recommend dropping tappets in the motor. Major PITA.
And the last thing that I would consider critical is a good shop manual. There is nothing worse than trying to reassemble parts and not know what the true torque is supposed to be.
Dave