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Helix cams

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Want Muffler...But No Drone

Diesel_Dan...The man for FASS issues!!!

rubberneck said:
Ok, to get this thread, back on track, this is what i have learned. Helix 3 all out HP cam. Jetpilot just made more hp on a vp44 than anyone using this cam and some of dons experimental injectors. Helix 2 quicker spool, smoother acceleration and increased top end. Good for us "moderately bombed" guys. A couple of members have chimed in who have this one and seem to love it. Valve springs needed (highly recomended) with this one. Haven't heard from anyone with a Helix 1 grind. hopefully someone will chime in. All the cams have lobe for mechanical lift pump Oo. No need to replace tappets, which will definitely make install easier. Besides the special handle tool you made fishing guide, anything else we should know about?? any tips if you were doing it again? Guess it's time to get out the credit card.



Honestly, there are not many specil tools. And every one of them could be made.



You will need a tray. A piece of aluminum tubing would be best, but I have heard of folks using exhaust tubing. This would need to be cut lengthwise a little above the centerline. You would also need to cap the end and this cap must fit to the inside of the tube. This takes the place of the camshaft for installing/ uninstalling the tappets. You need wood dowels. Available at any hardware store. You need a single dowel with a 3/4" (approx) cuphook and you need a long piece of nylon string with a small rubber plug in the end. This has to fit into the tappets and be a very snug fit. Again, available at hardware stores. And lastly, a handful of heavy rubber bands. All of this stuff is available in kit form, but I have no idea a to cost. I was able to procure a loaner kit.



There is not a special tool needed for stabbing the cam. It can be and is commonly done by just hanging on to the gear.



You need the wrenches to remove the fan.



You will need to have access to a press to get the gear off. I paid $4. 50 to get the gear off at a local shop. Yes, you can do this at home, but beating on the cam is not the answer!! You will then need an F1 Diesel approved heating device. This will be your significant others "oven". You need to heat the gear and install onto the new cam. Mine required final seating with a brass drift and a ballpeen.



If you are going to change the valave springs, Cummins makes a trick little tool that allows them to be done with the head on. It's about $40.



The only other special tool you need is your head. Go slow, plan your next move, check and recheck everything. And, above all else, you must use good common sense!



The major pitfalls are limited to incorrect installation of hard parts and fasteners, A/C discharge, and dropping tappets into the motor.



Now, the last one I now all about. I had a dowel come loose and dropped one tappet on the #5 cylinder. I had to drain the oil, remove all the pan bolts and slide the pan to the passengers side. I then used a pen magnet to fish it out. Added about 1/2 hour to my install. I do NOT recommend dropping tappets in the motor. Major PITA.



And the last thing that I would consider critical is a good shop manual. There is nothing worse than trying to reassemble parts and not know what the true torque is supposed to be.



Dave
 
Matt,



I don't think there is anything "wrong" with the PDR cam. I, like you, just chose to go a different route. I am sure that you'll be happy with your purchase.



And that is the thing, the diesel aftermarket treats everything like it's a big secret. I'll let everyone in on another secret, there aren't any secrets!! Every major builder of a component most likely has thier competitions product in some way, shape or form. So, the whole argument for reverse engineering is a lost cause.



Let me know how the cam works for you Matt! I don't have anyone in my local area with his cam, except in a full on race truck. It's hard to get an accurate comparison to a daily driver.



Dave
 
Fishin Guide said:
Matt,



And that is the thing, the diesel aftermarket treats everything like it's a big secret. I'll let everyone in on another secret, there aren't any secrets!! Every major builder of a component most likely has thier competitions product in some way, shape or form. So, the whole argument for reverse engineering is a lost cause.



Yes, this is what i dont understand about the whole reverse engineering thing. If someone wanted to know what the specs were on the cam all they need is a degree wheel and dial indicator. Wouldn't even need to take it out of the truck.
 
Matt, too bad my truck is second gen. I am going to buy a Helix 2, it would be neat to put the two trucks side by side and see the difference in perf. but i think the 2 trucks are too different to be a fair comparison. Brandon told me he rode in a PDR cammed 2nd gen and was very impressed with both pick up and how well it stretched out on the top side. Hopefully you will see same on 3rd gen. Im curious how different the stock cams out of the 2nd and 3rd gen are. Have you heard if either benefit more than the other from a cam?
 
I would contact one of his distributors. I had some questions about a set of injectors i had purchased. I called the person i bought them from and don called me within the hour.
 
Jetpilot, I will do better than that, I will be calling you here soon to order the cam and some other stuff that i have to get. thanks Phil
 
Tasha's Evil Twin......

Tasha's truck now has a Helix cam and it is a nice addition to her HP truck for street/college transportation.



TST on any level and F1(Don M) box, EGT's DO NOT exceed 1450 degrees in a 0-100 mph run. Still dealing with pureflow Technologies to get her Fuel Preporator parts :rolleyes:



Don makes good product and you can bet his stuff has been tested and tested and tested.....
 
zstroken,



Don doesn't give out his # due to his time constraints..... I would be happy to answer any questions that you may have. If I can help please give me a call @ 717-557-7060



Doug
 
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