TDR PRODUCT:
Hey, Cool-hand, fret not. There is an easy solution to the problem, and it doesn't involve "reworking the exhaust. "
I got my flaps from Jason and couldn't believe how beautiful they were. I got right on the install, doing the front ones first. I found the instructions to be sort of inadequate; you have to mess around with the bracket/braces to figure our where they go, both on the front and the rear flaps. Jason will help if you call him and leave a message; he's a heck of a good guy.
On the rear, passenger side flap, I had to cut down both the top of the diamond plate brace, and the flap itself or it would have hit the exhaust where it turns out and exits behind the fender well. I got out my trusty Dewalt jigsaw and inserted a fine-toothed metal cutting blade. I then held the aluminum flap hanger up to the rear wheel well in its approximate position, letting it butt against the exhaust tail pipe. With the flap hanger in its approximate position, roughly level, I could see that I'd have to remove about an inch and a half of the top of the bracket in order for it to slide into position and be properly aligned with the inside of the fender well. I removed the wheel/tire so that I could get at things better, then I grabbed a pencil and scribed the shape of the pipe's outline (sort of a half circle) onto the aluminum of the flap support hanger. (If you're still following me, you're a friggin' genius!
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I cut out the circular shape from the hanger metal and tried it for fit. This time, the hanger slid in almost all the way to where it should have been, but not quite. So, I "eyeballed" the amount that needed to be removed, and attacked it with the jigsaw. Keep in mind, when you're doing this, that the aluminum is very soft (even though it's thick and strong... ) and the high-speed, steel, jigsaw blade cuts it like butter. Take off just a 1/4 inch or so each time, then hold it up for a proper trial fitting again; nibble a little more each time. After my third cutting and test fitting, I had it just perfect. I then tood the altered flap hanger and put it on top of the rubber flap, aligning the two remaining bolt holes, and even inserting the bolts, temporarily, to insure proper alignment. Next, I traced the rounded shape of the cut away area (on the hanger bracket) onto the flap itself. I used the round bottom of a paper towel roll (4 1/4") to extend the half circle tracing that I had to cut into the bracket flap hanger. I now had the perfect shape of my four inch exhaust (in section) transferred onto the body of the flap. Next I took the same jigsaw, metal-cutting blade and used it to alter the flap. A test fitting (again) revealed that the newly cut flap and bracket would align perfectly with the wheel well and no longer interfere with the exhaust turn-out. The only thing remaining to be done was to drill another 1/4" hole for the third bolt, washer and locknut that tie the top of the flap to the flap hanger bracket.
Cutting the flap and bracket a little in order to accommodate the exhaust is no big deal, and in no way affects the strength of the installation. Don't let this intimidate you! You can email me, and I'll help any way I can. I'll give you my phone number if you want, and go over the deal with you. It's no biggie...
You will LOVE the way these bad-boys make your truck look!
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97 2500 4x4, club cab, auto, 3. 54 limited slip, JRE 4" exhaust, Dr. Performance Fuel system (370 HP), "Twister Turbo," Geno's guages -- Boost, EGT, transmission & Rear -- MAG Hytec covers, SunCoast Converter/Transgo shift kit, Brite Box, tons o'chrome under hood, Prime Loc, EZ Drain, Seat covers, wood dash, Rancho Suspension, Warn M12000 Winch on Warn Brush Guard, Warn driving and fog lights, Hella twin back up lights, 285/75/R16 B. F. G. ATs on Mickey Thompson "Classic" rims; Linex bed liner, BD exhaust brake, Optima, "Red-top" batteries. Northwest Custom mudflaps, front/rear, and stainless rocker panels.
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