Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) HELP O-Ring specs I need some input

[IC Smoke]

Well its that time... . Ive reached time to O-Ring the head to aid durability of twins or a large single.



Ive thrown around the idea of sending my truck to have the head done but what is the sence in doing so If i can pull the head and I have all the tools and then some to do so at work?



I need to know what size the groove is. . . 020? what size the ring is? . 030 what type of ring and or can I buy it from a diesel shop (sheids/haisley/whomever?) what the diameter is? (or how far away from the cyl wall the ring sits)



Do you resurface the head to make it true flat? Im sure with a head the size of ours it will have a warp to it... maybe not Or do you just check for flatness around each cylinder.



I will be doing this on a proto-trac bridgeport mill so once It shouldnt take long... . what do the big guns use to cut the groove? and do they use a jig to place the wire in?



So pretty much i need to know:

what end mill to use (ball or flat) and size

where to get the wire and new gasket (sizes as well)

diameter of the ring groove

. 0000 the head yes or no

can I get the "o-ring" to do it myself and what kind is it?

where to get a gasket

everything else :-laf



Thanks guys!! If you dont want to post the info (if youre a diesel shop or do this for a living) please PM me. Im not out to do this for profit. I just cant see spending $300+ for 2hrs of work since I have access to a whole machine shop.



Ian

 

[ThrottleJockey]

It's not a huge, giant secret. You should contact a hot rod or drag racing shop as protrusion depth is very important.



The stainless steel O-Ring will sit right on top of the fire ring on a stock headgasket. The pressure will look like you chisled a groove right in the fire ring after they seat.



If you have access to a machine shop, you can cut reciever grooves in your head and block for some mild steel Haisley Fire Rings and their waterjetted stock headgasket and studs.



I did six retorques and still had an oil leak on a block I had decked and cut by Schied's. Torqued 'em to 130, still leaked oil and a bit of coolant.

I took the head off and cut reciever grooves for the rings.



Sealed on the first try.

 

[Jim Fulmer]

My head is on older on by Piers! He put a . 051 wire in with an 18 thou protrusion and this is old school as the newer ones run a 10-12 thou protrusion. I like mine but it does take a few re-torques to get it to set in, once it does it's there. I ran that head at 65-80 psi for 2 years and NEVER had a gasket issue. I still run the same head and gasket setup and to date have still NEVER had an issue.



Jim

 

[Signal73]

i will be doing my oringing very soon (beginning of this week) so glad to see this topic brought up. I was told to pick up some . 041 wire. I have no idea what protrusion I should use whats standard? 10-12 thou. good for 5-600 HP w/up to 65 lbs boost?

Thanks, Jim

 

[zstroken]

I like to know how the process is done, but if it were me unless you were getting into the business of doing it for making money, I would pay the one time cost of $300 or so and get it done right. We spend $1500 for a charger, $6000 for a transmission, $300 for a job done right is well worth it. Especially consider the outcome of a hack job. $700 for a head, $100 HG, $40 for coolant, time for R&R the head.

 

[Signal73]

I like to know how the process is done, but if it were me unless you were getting into the business of doing it for making money, I would pay the one time cost of $300 or so and get it done right. We spend $1500 for a charger, $6000 for a transmission, $300 for a job done right is well worth it. Especially consider the outcome of a hack job. $700 for a head, $100 HG, $40 for coolant, time for R&R the head.

Its not rocket science dude. I have some experienced help along with me, just have not got into the details with them yet looking for some up front info to work with...

If you can contribute to the thread we would all appreciate it.

Thanks, Jim

 

[zstroken]

Who told you to pick up the . 041 wire?? If you can find a knowledgable source to do it then that is great benefit. I have talked to one or two machine shops and his answer was something like "well er I seem to recall we had a guy that just quit that used to do all of the oringing for our gassers, so I think we can figure it out" There was a thread on here a year or so ago about a guy who had somebody oring his head and they botched the job. A competent machinist could do it easily. I apologize if you don't think there is some value to what I add. I am sure there are other people that read this thread besides you and the guy who sharpens his own lawnmower blades shouldn't be doing this.

 

[Signal73]

Getting a jig from a shop in MA. . 041 was mentioned would like to see what everyone was doing. if you can read thousands of an inch the reast is easy. Heres a pic of a typical Jig if no ones ever seen it.

From Tri county machine in CT:

 

[zstroken]

Well then that changes things, there has been some prior discussion about someone trying to do their own on a mill.

 

[SpicyJam]

Signal I really hope this is not your first time cutting. That is the BHJ jig I use, just cause you can read in thousandths does mean you are ready. I have been using my jig for almost 4yrs now.

There is more to it than bolting it on and cutting, I really hope you don't think it is that easy.

Besides the price of that cutter is not cheap... ... ... most people would not pay the price for it just to cut your own head. Enjoy!

Later Jim.

 

[Signal73]

no fear!

Signal I really hope this is not your first time cutting.

For me, yes, for the guys helping me, no.

That is the BHJ jig I use,

Sitting in my garage as we speak.





Ill let you know how it comes out!



Sorry your thread got hijacked IC :-{}

 

[IC Smoke]

hey no problem, its all info!! Ive not seen the "jig" so its been a informative post so far!! I think I might have it done by a spicey pro, I cant afford to trash the head





as far as "decking" the head or have it true and flat what is the best way to go about this? weve got surface grinders at the shop so I might do it that way but if I remember dont the valve springs sit above the top of the head?



THanks guys!!

Ian