hamm, yes, the Suntouch Warmwire is the exact same stuff I use. Wouldnt use anything else, great product and thier customer service is top notch.
The kits are VERY easy to install and the biggest issue is just making sure the wire is not damaged during install. Its a good idea to check the resistance of the wire periodicly just to make sure you dont nick it some where.
On the self-leveling, it can be tricky. To be honest, if its more than an area of 200 sq ft, I would hire it out. They actually have a pump truck, will come in, prep it, and pour it very quickly, and usually costs under 3 bucks a sq ft, and they garrantee it. I do most my own pours, as most of my stuff is smaller areas than that, but 200 gets to be the limit I can handle. Also, you almost have to have 2 people to do the leveling. One guy pouring and leveling it out with some type of spreader while the other mixes. You gotta work pretty fast as it sets up quickly. Also, follow the directions exactly for mixing and water content, you will be hating life if you don't. I use a dethatching rake for my leveling tool. I coated the blades on it with that rubber coating for tool handles so it wouldnt damage the wire. Basicly, you mix it, pour it, and then move the material around with the rake. I wear football cleats so that I can walk around the room and not have my feet stick to the floor, and also it doesnt mess up the leveling process. After I have the entire floor poured, and moved the material around so that there is no bare spots, I walk around with the rake, and move it up and down on the surface, going back and forth across the room until the entire surface has been aggitated.
On the prep side, here are a few tips. Along the walls, get a roll of sill seal, its a thin foam that is on a roll and is used to seal walls to foundations. This stuff works great for keeping the leveling material from seaping under the walls into adjacent rooms. You lay it flat agaisnt the wall, and tight to the floor. Just staple it to the sheet rock to hold it there. In door ways that lead out side of the tiled area, cut a piece of 2x2 pine and screw it to the floor, make sure that the edge is the center of the door, not the door way. You dont want your tile past the door, as when you shut the door you dont want to see the flooring outside the room. Take Greatstuff foam and put a small bead along the board you put in the door ways to again keep the leveling material from seeping out. Tape any cracks in the floor with tape, most guys use duct tape. This will keep the leveling material from going through the floor boards. If on a cement floor, some cement sealent in the cracks might not be bad idea, because who knows how deep those cracks are. If not filled, your floor might look great, but 2 hours later, you might end up with low spots where the cracks are as it can suck it down. If there is a toilet in the tiled area, make a dam out of Greatstuff on top of the toilet flange, but not over the drain hole. After the leveling material sets, you just break the foam out, works very well. Also, before you pour, make sure you prep the plywood with a leveling primer, this will make it tacky, and suspend any dust that you didnt get cleaned off prior.
So, the order of details,
1. ) Clean the sub floor and brace any lose joints. If the subfloor is not tongue and groove plywood, your going to have to install another layer of plywood, even if its only 3/8" thick. The subfloor plywood should be no less than 5/8" thick.
2. ) Self level primer
3. ) Tape all seems in the plywood
4. ) Floor prep, block door ways, walls, floor vents, toilet flanges, any hole in the floor.
5. ) Map out your wire and install your wire clips.
6. ) Install your thermostat according to directions
7. ) Staple down a plastic or fiberglass mesh over the entire floor, be careful not to staple any wires. (this is only required for flooring over plywood, cement floors do not require this step)
8. ) figure out how much material and water you need, and have it all ready and close by. Most self leveling materials require a minimum floor thickness of 1-1/4". So, if your sub flooring is 3/4" TG plywood, your self level should be a minimum of 1/2" thick.
9. ) Mix material with a 1/2" HD drill, dont try anything less or you will kill it, trust me. The drill should be less than 500 RPMs (IIRC)
10. ) pour and level out with rake. Again, I have found that the plunging motion over the entire floor on the last sweep works wonders and really helped with getting the floor perfectly flat.
11. ) remove all the prep materials, and I like to put a coat of the leveling primer on the top of the self leveling material too. Its not really required, but it locks up any lose powder and dust and the thinset seems to stick better to it.
Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
messed that up once, luckly suntouch sent me some extra wire and I was able to extend the wire 4' and stay with in spec of the wire ohm rating, and was able to repair the floor without much trouble, but it did suck. It was the end of the wire and figured that last run being 3" apart vrs 2. 5" was no big deal... man was I wrong, ended up with a cold spot by the tub. Plus, it didnt help that the air and surface temps under the tub (accessable from the mechanical room) were 15-20* cooler than the room temp, so the tub was radiating cold into the floor as well. 
