Help !! transmission fluid in radiator

[TGVET]

The friction material form the clutch packs will just drop into the pan, what can get out anyway. What stays in the clutch packs will stay and clog the vents.



TC clutch friction material will go thru the cooler.



If you are seeing flakes of friction material its only a matter of time. The glue that holds the friction material on is water soluble. As it deteriorates it just gets messier.



Rebuilding now before a major failure is advisable. Just an FYI, a new direct drum for a 48RE is over $600 retail. Save the hard parts as much as possible.

What is the drum ?

 

[NIsaacs]

Sorry I can't make the link work right.



Do a search on "48re direct drum pictures" then click on "48re Performance rebuild at PATC"



Nick

 

[cerberusiam]

The direct drum is drive with the clutches applied, and 2nd gear with clutches off and band applied. Its the one thats the biggest beating.



If you mess up the drum from the band going bad and running metal on metal you have to replace it. Thats where it gets expensive as the 48RE is the only trans that used a 5 disk drum and it is out of production.



A 4 disk drum can be used but a lot of builders won't use them. There are drawbacks.



Its pretty easy to blow 2-3 grand replacing some of thes pieces with either OE or better parts. You really don't want a catastrophic failure.

 

[sag2]

If you are getting black material that looks like coffee grinds it is torque converter material. Get an inline filter like a Magnafine. I do not believe the Magnafine has an actual filter in it, just magnet, so you might want to check around first. Cut the cooler line BEFORE the cooler to install. If you really get in a pinch an inline fuel filter with metal case and 1/2 lines will work for a short time.

As has been said, it is probably a matter of time before it is done, so a freshening might be wise now. If nothing is hurt yet you are only looking at friction material and seals plus a converter.

 

[TGVET]

So far all I'm seeing in the pan is black flake like material like thin brittle gasket which I assume is off the clutch ? No granular stuff and the magnet is pretty clean.

 

[TGVET]

OK. . We have Heat exchangers on every truck in America (Bio-Clean 4 Per unit). . if You want these Exchangers to last Lifetime listen carefully (BC) if I am challenged I will NO longer post in this thread (Questions are ok) You NEED to keep the system (Coolant/Fluid) free form any type of air contamination. . the trans fluid is basically simple. . Service regularly . . DO NOT flush. . Some Garages that do NOT know what they are doing will use chemicals that are not exchanger friendly. . If they are NOT careful and remove 100% of the chemicals ... if they know what and how to remove 100% it works fine. . Do at your own risk.

The coolant requires more care, YOU MUST KEEP THE SYSTEM coolant AIR FREE . . this means knowing what you are doing at drain intrevals. . YOU MUST KEEP THE DE-GAS BOTTLE CLEAN AND AT PROPER LEVELS, check radiator cap or just replace, if Air is allowed to enter the system its only time before corrosions begins. . keep the factory coolant for 4-5 years before service. . rumor has it factory coolants have special additives to prevent this and leaks to seals and gaskets. Check fluid life yearly. . do not service unnecessarily.



I have seen these heat exchanger in like new condition after 10 years of service, generally thier failures are related to contamination or lack of care,they rarely leak.

What is that ? Are referring to the coolant reservoir ? Also, what is the simple way to get any air out of the system ?



Thanks.

Rob

 

[TGVET]

Time for a transmission.

Well, my trans is doing some odd things shifting wise, almost akin to a "hunt n seek" but not exactly, just and RPM increase then settling into motion, seems like 1st to 2nd. ANYHOW, I have been talking to the guys at BD Diesel and am looking at a 6500. 00 bill for their Perf. stage 1 trans, TC and install which is 3yr. /150K which sounds pretty good. (The warranty, not the cost ) I had toyed with the thought of doing a Suncoast (parts rebuild) and attempting it myself to save $$$ but that would be no warranty. I see some guys mention "Gorrend built" but haven't checked them out yet. BD is an hour away from me in Abbotsford, BC so seems logical to go with someone close not out of Calif. or somewhere else.



I looked into a local shop rebuild w/ perf parts but their warranty is not as good. Opinions guys please...



Thanks.

 

[Sled Dog]

Well, my trans is doing some odd things shifting wise, almost akin to a "hunt n seek" but not exactly, just and RPM increase then settling into motion, seems like 1st to 2nd. ANYHOW, I have been talking to the guys at BD Diesel and am looking at a 6500. 00 bill for their Perf. stage 1 trans, TC and install which is 3yr. /150K which sounds pretty good. (The warranty, not the cost ) I had toyed with the thought of doing a Suncoast (parts rebuild) and attempting it myself to save $$$ but that would be no warranty. I see some guys mention "Gorrend built" but haven't checked them out yet. BD is an hour away from me in Abbotsford, BC so seems logical to go with someone close not out of Calif. or somewhere else.



I looked into a local shop rebuild w/ perf parts but their warranty is not as good. Opinions guys please...



Thanks.

Sooo... ..... What Happened?



I have the same thing Right Now! ATF fluid in the radiator overflow bottle.....

its as RED as can be.



Got a New radiator in the box, thermostat, gals. of coolant and atf fluid and atf filter. :{



Feeling SICK!

 

[mwilson]

Sled Dog,



Did you obtain a new transmission cooler as well??



Mike.

 

[TGVET]

I did not by a new radiator. I spent several days flushing out the cooling system with hot water mixed with cascade dishwasher soap LOTS of water and then final rinses w/20 gals of distilled H2O. Once done with cooling, flushed out transmission with 20gals of Walmart cheap fluid. Then installed new exchanger bought from Cummins NW in Oregon for 390. 00 + shpg. Removing it was a *****. Reinstall not too bad. Put about another 1,000 miles on the thing while waiting in line for total rebuild by DTT in Canada one hour north of me. I now have a totally rebuilt billet everything transmission rated to 900+ HP and 20,000 pull all day long. (No, I don't have 900 or plan on doing sled pulls) I do plan on at least another 250,000 miles from it though.



I talked to one guy with an 07 who says he tows 21,000 all the time "no problem". Anyone thinking their OEM 48RE will tow 20,000 + is livin the lie. Sure it will, but I guarantee you it won't last 245,000 miles, I also did not tow the crap out out of mine either. Just a daily driver hauling my tools and occasionally towing my boat, work trailer and toys trailer. No one could believe I got 245K out of my stock transmission. Third gear was shot as was the drum even with regular maintenance, Mag HyTek double deep pan, Amsoil ATF.



If you really don't like someone and they have a 48RE, wish upon them the HE failure. It's hell.



Good luck with yours, feel free to ask any other questions.



DTT has trained installation facilities around the country so you don't need to go to Abbotsford, BC



I talked to several shops, all "highly recommended". No one gave me the generous time and detailed information with several follow up calls and numerous questions comparing quote to quote prior to choosing them like DTT did, nor did they promise me the moon in "guarantees" like some other builders.

 

[Sled Dog]

TGVET you've got mail.

 

[Sled Dog]

Anyone have a website for Cummins NW for the heat exchanger?

 

[mwilson]

Sled Dog,

Where are you??? Maybe there is a Cummins dealer a little closer to you.



Also, see Post #21 from sag2, try the part number he suggests at your local Dodge dealer. Could save some money for you.



Mike.

 

[JBlakeman]

Well I think this makes a lot of us with 3rd gen Auto's start wondering if we should be replacing our heat exchangers?!? I'm close to 190K on my truck, 3rd water pump and 3rd trans cooler. I'd rather spend $400. 00 on the part than $4000 on a trans plus all the work cleaning up the cooling system... .



Has anyone done this as a maintenance item and any issues afterward?



Curious,



Jon

 

[cerberusiam]

Well I think this makes a lot of us with 3rd gen Auto's start wondering if we should be replacing our heat exchangers?!?

I wondered about it on the 1st gens.



I worried about it on the 2nd gens.



I considered it on the 3rd gens.





To date I have had to replace none of them. We hear about the failures not the non-failures. Probably about as often as an oil cooler dumping coolant into the engine.



I figure if it hasn't broke by the tme we get to 5 years and a couple hundred k its a good one that will last.

 

[TGVET]

Had the lower coolant return hose on my HE not burst a year ago last August requiring me to make the repairs in a grocery store parking lot, I would not hesitate to agree with Cerb. I say this because, it was next to impossible removing and replacing the lower hose, I had to literally carve, peel and pry it off with a razor knife and curved thin blade screwdriver as it was really stuck to the neck of the HE. Not to mention, just trying to remove the spring clamp. There is virtually no room to work on it without removing the fender and wheel which I did when finally replacing the entire unit and even then, it was a bear.



So I'm left with thinking that all the manipulating of it in the process of emergency repairs on the road stressed out the unit causing premature failure.



Makes me wonder how others would fail if never having been touched other than replacing the inlet and return coolant hoses which MUST be done very delicately.



That's my take.

 

[JBlakeman]

Good points Cerb and TGVET. Sounds like this is still a pretty remote problem and possibly the failure TGVET experienced could have been realized with the original coolant hose repair (air / contaminants may have gotten in place... who knows??).



Since I stay pretty current with my fluid changes (including coolant changes with my water pump sagas... ) I'll let it just do it's job and cross my fingers that this doesn't happen to me down the road... .



Jon

 

[TGVET]

Why the lower coolant return hose though and no others ? Nothing rubs on it, I wonder if anyone else has had that hose burst ?

 

[JBlakeman]

Pressure difference in the system..... radiator cap going bad; I haven't replaced my cap since my second water pump a while back (around 80k) so might add that to the shopping list as well now that I'm typing this...

 

[Prairie Dog]

Mine too I guess. Next spring will be time for another coolant change and I think I'll spring for a new Stat, Cap and maybe even a water pump - or at least have one on hand.