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Help-vibration started on 2005 Diesel 4X4

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Help with a Chassis Part...

04 steering box

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I've got a mystery to solve. I have what I would call a vibration but I hesitate to call it that cause its not a typical jiggle, thump thump but more like driving on a rough surface. It's most noticeable over 40 mph and at about 65 mph it seems to smooth out a bit. If I lift off the accelerator the truck runs smooth, give it just little throttle and I feel it. If it was a U joint, you would think it would be rough all the time. Anyone else had this one ? Ive got 45,000 miles on the truck.
 
Back in the day, I had a old 55 Ferd Fairlane. Swapped a transmission (1st time for this 16 year old). Too much in a hurry to double check my work, had the same issue. When the power was applied it shook the car , when backed off it smooth out. Pulled over after a couple of miles, found I had not tightened the U-Joint U bolts. A bad U-Joint acts the same way. If the Ubolt does not capture the UJ cap, it will act as if the bearings in that cap were not doing thier job in smooth out the rotational forces as power is applied. If you have a center bearing look at that very closely. If it's about to fail or has failed it can play H-ll with tailshafts as well leading to bigger costs.
 
I would say check the u joints also. Maybe jack the rear end up so you can spin the drive shaft around and check. I had a similar vibration in my 93 this spring, like you said I would let off the accelerator it went away. I looked at my u joints and tires several times and didn't find the u joint until I picked the rear end up in the air.
Matt
 
Ujoint, brake rotors, hanger bearing, tires. Could any or a combination. Sometimes oyu just have to start replacing pieces. U-joints is the most common so a good place to start.
 
I tow with my 3500 dually... . I'm on my 3rd set of u joints... . Last purchase was the 351A joint from Rockauto.com

The joint has the roller bearing worn into the surface that it rides on... when your under load the pressure causes the the two surfaces to rumble or vibrate as they cross paths... . when your not under load the surfaces pass without the pressure thus no vibration...

On my cars from years past you could wiggle a bad joint with the drive shaft installed... with these trucks and all the torque they have... the joint will feel good and even with a pry bar its hard to see... but if you pull it apart you will see the problem... .
 
Thanks everyone for the helpful suggestions. Made me feel good that it was only a U joint and not something more serious $$$$. While I was having my BD exhaust brake wiring done, they replaced the rear u joint and everything is smooth again.
 
I verified my middle ujoint was bad with an infrared heat gun. It was warmer than the other two. Looked and felt solid while on the truck. Obvious once the driveshaft was removed.
 
I verified my middle ujoint was bad with an infrared heat gun. It was warmer than the other two. Looked and felt solid while on the truck. Obvious once the driveshaft was removed.

What a great idea. I knew I needed one of those IR heat guns. Off to the store.
 
I tow with my 3500 dually... . I'm on my 3rd set of u joints... . Last purchase was the 351A joint from Rockauto.com



The joint has the roller bearing worn into the surface that it rides on... when your under load the pressure causes the the two surfaces to rumble or vibrate as they cross paths... . when your not under load the surfaces pass without the pressure thus no vibration...



On my cars from years past you could wiggle a bad joint with the drive shaft installed... with these trucks and all the torque they have... the joint will feel good and even with a pry bar its hard to see... but if you pull it apart you will see the problem... .



Second that. Had the kind of vibration mentioned. Pull drive shaft and joints seem tight and smooth. A very slight differece in stiffness in one spot caused me to proceed with the joint change. Old joint when apart ant it was obvious. Glad I did not put that one vback on the truck
 
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