Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Help with 95 2500 CTD

[dusthomps]

Guys...



My neighbor has a 95 2500 ext cab long box w/ auto (all stock) that is really sad. He wants me to see what I can do to get it more power. What should I test or look for to start with? I took it for a drive tonight and it took a while to just get to 60. Started right up and started backing out of the driveway and it killed twice. I've driven my friends 97 that is stock and it gets up and goes much better. He said pulling an enclosed 16ft car hauler filled with insulation, it takes him almost 3 miles to hit 60. Fuel filter was just changed and he's had performance problems for a while now, also averages 11 mpg. I'm not exactly familiar with the 2nd Gens so any advice on where to start is much appreciated.



Thanks in advance...

Dustin

 

[bighammer]

It could be a bunch of things. Maybe check intake (air fiter?) and exhaust for restrictions (cat?) Timing could be off, (retarded) low boost for some reason,(faulty wastegate?) lift pump or fuel restriction, or wear in the pump or engine.



Is it smokey? (at startup or under load? color?) Using oil? Run rough? Could it be something other than engine? (dragging brakes, trans problem)

 

[dusthomps]

At initial startup, it smokes blue for maybe 5-10 minutes. Currently not using any oil at 222k and it did run a little rough for me when I took it out. Seemed to want to miss until I got after it. Air filter is good and exhaust is straight piped w/ no cat. Transmission was new rebuild about 35k ago.

 

[PUMPERDUDE]

Check the shut down solenoid to make sure its pulling all the way up. Check the overflow valve. If those are ok ,then check the fuel pressure going to the injector pump. After yall get it running ,its time to add some bombs to wake up that old 95. Good luck with it.

 

[midwestdually]

i would think timing and idle for starters

 

[jimk]

95

Originally posted by dusthomps

At initial startup, it smokes blue for maybe 5-10 minutes. Currently not using any oil at 222k and it did run a little rough for me when I took it out. Seemed to want to miss until I got after it. Air filter is good and exhaust is straight piped w/ no cat. Transmission was new rebuild about 35k ago.

I have a 95 and after replacing the muffler and freeing up the exhaust I saw no better performance. Next I replace the fuel hoses, overflow valve,fuel filter,and screen. Along with the fuel pump. No help here ether. Check the fuel pressure before you spend a lot of money here.



I had just bought the used truck 4 years ago. Finally I decided to set the timing up. That was before I heard of TDR.

The timing was the only thing that helped the poor mileage. The mileage went from 15 to 19. 5 and you can feel the difference in power. A good check is try to accelerate the engine when is cold after you have good oil pressure and see if the engine misses. Slow timing will cause this along with smoke.

I have ran several different timing settings and I like to run around 17 or a little more. Locate tdc, the timing pin can be off.

For power I have ran with a stock fuel plate slid all the way forward and AFC housing also. I would install a TST plate #6 and a governor kit. Log on to Piers web sight to see how to make the adjustment to the back of the pump.

Tighten all of the hose clamps on the inner cooler, block the bypass to the waste gate. Install some gauges. That is all you can do untill you do some thing to the transmission.

With a good transmission I would install a set of injectors and some 181 or 191 delievery valves.

I modified the detent lever to not return all of the way back to the original position. This I THINK may help me get more life out out of a stock transmission. I raised the shift points by doing this to 1850 rpms. This also increased the oil pressure at idle a lot. By increasing the power you don't use as much a throttle angle so you don't have as much pressure on the clutches. The oil pump reaches maximum at 1750 so that is the reason for keeping up the rpm. The 95 will require a lot to the transmission the make it live a high hp. My hp is around 270 I think. A #6 slid all the way forward along the AFC housing, modified to get more travel, 3 k, governor kit, and 17. 5 degrees timing. Also a blocked the wastegate and I get 32 lb boost. I don't short shift the transmission. For sure don't stand on the throttle at low rpm ( oil pressure) The combination of internal leaks in the transmission an low pump speed is a sure way to slip the clutches.

I bought a KN air cleaner but I am going to buy a larger paper filter and give the KN to some one.

In a few more months you may see some new changes as far as oil pump volume and towing in lockup. I have 95 k miles on the stock auto an I tow with it but you have to use common since. Extend shift point and don't jump on the throttle. I manual shift when I tow. I start in D2 and let the transmission shift into 2 and extend the rpm until I get 45 and shift into 3 with the overdrive locked out. Then I ease into the throttle and shift at 60 into overdrive when I tow. I have gotten 95 k miles on the auto and It shifts good and goes into gear good so I assume this is a good way as any. IMOP here lol jimk