help

[ryley gremard]

my 2017 6.7 2500 was in need of a oil change , went to loosen the drain and it was on there really tight , eventually i got it out and the threads inside the oil pan came along with it . what do i do?

 

[Cummins12V98]

Replace the pan I suppose. Any fix could fail.

I’m sure someone will come up with a good idea.

who changed oil last?

 

[TMyers]

That's called the Bung that came out. Most are welded in but it looks like Cummins did a press fit on these. They sell weld-in bungs but I don't know how it could be done with the pan on. As a temp fix, I'd get a new bung and plug and clean up the area around the hole to bare metal and try JB Weld. There's no stress on it so as long as it's clean and oil free when you do it, it should hold.

 

[ryley gremard]

Replace the pan I suppose. Any fix could fail.

I’m sure someone will come up with a good idea.

who changed oil last?

the dealership who i bought it from

 

[ryley gremard]

That's called the Bung that came out. Most are welded in but it looks like Cummins did a press fit on these. They sell weld-in bungs but I don't know how it could be done with the pan on. As a temp fix, I'd get a new bung and plug and clean up the area around the hole to bare metal and try JB Weld. There's no stress on it so as long as it's clean and oil free when you do it, it should hold.

thanks!i’ll look into that, just tryin to take her back to the dealership w/o a tow..

 

[seafish]

As a temp fix, I'd get a new bung and plug and clean up the area around the hole to bare metal and try JB Weld. There's no stress on it so as long as it's clean and oil free when you do it, it should hold.

Dont get me wrong, I am a huge fan of using JB Weld, Baling wire, duct tape and/or zip ties to fix most any accessory or broken part that is attached to my truck.

That said, using JB weld as a fix (even temporary) on an oil pan that if it fails and is not noticed could toast a $10k engine in mere minutes is NOT something that I would ever consider or recommend.

IMI, the OP should get the truck towed to a repair shop that can, if possible, weld a new bung with the pan in place (but the ECM disconnected) or replace the pan as needed.

Just my .02

 

[ryley gremard]

Dont get me wrong, I am a huge fan of using JB Weld, Baling wire, duct tape and/or zip ties to fix most any accessory or broken part that is attached to my truck.

That said, using JB weld as a fix (even temporary) on an oil pan that if it fails and is not noticed could toast a $10k engine in mere minutes is NOT something that I would ever consider or recommend.

IMI, the OP should get the truck towed to a repair shop that can, if possible, weld a new bung with the pan in place (but the ECM disconnected) or replace the pan as needed.

Just my .02

thank you

 

[seafish]

MAYBE you could use something more secure like this as a temp fix ... if you can find one

the correct size range,

 

[sarj]

That said, using JB weld as a fix (even temporary) on an oil pan that if it fails and is not noticed could toast a $10k engine in mere minutes is NOT something that I would ever consider or recommend.

It depends ... . A new pan?... the only way to go. How to get there? It depends.

JB weld sounds a bit risky, but like the earlier poster mentioned; there isn't any any mechanical stress involved here... Which gets me to my contribution. Late 80's or early 90's, a bunch of us were out in the desert on 2 strokes. I've always been a CR500 kind of guy but most everyone else was on 250's which have a lot higher sweet spot on the power band. They run hotter. They run very hot. Back at camp after a day riding, a 250-guy notices a drip of oil on the bottom of the case. He has a hairline crack in the case. Very bad for anyone that's spent time on bikes. He was done for the rest of that trip.

We get back to civilization, and being single guys on a budget, a new case on a used CR250 is a budget buster for this guy, and has a hard time penciling it out anyway. With nothing to lose, out comes some de-greaser, emery cloth, and some JB Weld. This wasn't my advise at the time. A week later, we go out to the track; 5 min, then 15 min, another 30, and then a few hours... dry as a bone, and powdered dirt doesn't lie. Long story short, that bike raced a few more grand prix's, a couple times on stadium tracks, and two years worth of trips out to the desert. All with no leak. That made me a believer in the impossible as far as JB Weld goes.

Clean everything up, rough it up with a dremel and emery, and feather it out. Try it out locally on some test drives, and then make the call. You need a new pan anyway. Depends on how far to the dealership and what your options are whether trying it pencil's out. Seafish's plug night be worth a field test locally too to see if that works (although I'd be a little more leery of relying an a rubber seal here).

I wouldn't say it's optimal, and there's gonna be a bit of a risk, but it might get you out of Dodge the cheapest and easiest, and at least back to a dealer if that's how you have to go. I'd park it and do the pan myself, but that's me. I can tell you JB-Weld can easily exceed expectations, and this might be one of them. It's a risk/reward thing that might pencil out versus a tow.... whatever that's gonna run. Not a lot to lose if you ease into the field test of the repair before you try hitting the road to a dealership. I can tell you one thing; I keep a couple fresh packs of JB in the trail-box of the CJ7 at all times, and wouldn't be afraid to go there under the right bad circumstances. I'm already screwed if I'm looking at it as an option, and it's saved the day a few times.

 

[TMyers]

It depends ... . A new pan?... the only way to go. How to get there? It depends.

JB weld sounds a bit risky, but like the earlier poster mentioned; there isn't any any mechanical stress involved here... Which gets me to my contribution. Late 80's or early 90's, a bunch of us were out in the desert on 2 strokes. I've always been a CR500 kind of guy but most everyone else was on 250's which have a lot higher sweet spot on the power band. They run hotter. They run very hot. Back at camp after a day riding, a 250-guy notices a drip of oil on the bottom of the case. He has a hairline crack in the case. Very bad for anyone that's spent time on bikes. He was done for the rest of that trip.

We get back to civilization, and being single guys on a budget, a new case on a used CR250 is a budget buster for this guy, and has a hard time penciling it out anyway. With nothing to lose, out comes some de-greaser, emery cloth, and some JB Weld. This wasn't my advise at the time. A week later, we go out to the track; 5 min, then 15 min, another 30, and then a few hours... dry as a bone, and powdered dirt doesn't lie. Long story short, that bike raced a few more grand prix's, a couple times on stadium tracks, and two years worth of trips out to the desert. All with no leak. That made me a believer in the impossible as far as JB Weld goes.

Clean everything up, rough it up with a dremel and emery, and feather it out. Try it out locally on some test drives, and then make the call. You need a new pan anyway. Depends on how far to the dealership and what your options are whether trying it pencil's out. Seafish's plug night be worth a field test locally too to see if that works (although I'd be a little more leery of relying an a rubber seal here).

I wouldn't say it's optimal, and there's gonna be a bit of a risk, but it might get you out of Dodge the cheapest and easiest, and at least back to a dealer if that's how you have to go. I'd park it and do the pan myself, but that's me. I can tell you JB-Weld can easily exceed expectations, and this might be one of them. It's a risk/reward thing that might pencil out versus a tow.... whatever that's gonna run. Not a lot to lose if you ease into the field test of the repair before you try hitting the road to a dealership. I can tell you one thing; I keep a couple fresh packs of JB in the trail-box of the CJ7 at all times, and wouldn't be afraid to go there under the right bad circumstances. I'm already screwed if I'm looking at it as an option, and it's saved the day a few times.

I knew I would catch some flack on the JB Weld comment. If it's clean, bare metal and oil free, it will stick and stay stuck. I've seen a fuel tank hole patched with it and it's still holding today after 10 plus years.

 

[Jim W]

As had been stated before I would replace the OIL Pan with a new pan. Why it is far less costly putting a new oil pan on VS replacing a $10 K engine. This pan has failed regardless of any temporary fixes that you maybe advise to do. Geno's garage is selling a replacement pan Dorman for $439.95 + shipping for your year of truck, or a Mopar pan for $540 which includes the gasket.

I would also install a drain valve that Genos sells also, a finger touch oil drain valve for $22. You will no longer need to remove the drain plug to drain the oil.

I have had one on my engine since 2009 and it has never failed makes it easier to change the oil.

I believe the engine can be left in the truck to service the oil pan. Just removing the engine mounts and raising the engine enough to allow the old pan to be removed and replace with a new pan.

If you have the time and the ability to do the work yourself, you would be money ahead. An engine hoist from Harbor freight will work (I bought one for my son's Christmas present several years ago). He has used this on several vehicles which he has worked on over the years.

just my $0.02.

 

[Ozymandias]

Weld it in, Problem solved, no need to take the Pan down for this if you have an experienced welder on hand. That's really not a big deal.

 

[monovasia]

Sir, I would just tow, don't take the chance of blowing your motor (which will require a tow anyway)...there is a time and place for McGyver solutions... this is not one of them

 

[seafish]

Weld it in, Problem solved, no need to take the Pan down for this if you have an experienced welder on hand.

The operative word in this sentence is EXPERIENCED !!!

In other words, the dealership is NOT the place to go for this type of repair.

 

[Cummins12V98]

the dealership who i bought it from

Well there is your answer!!! Take your "PART" to the Service Manager and have a polite conversation.

 

[Cummins12V98]

NO way would I accept having to fix this my self. HECK, even WalMart would step up and replace the pan.

Go to the Dealer as I said and let us know what they say. Don't take NO for an answer.

 

[Ozymandias]

The operative word in this sentence is EXPERIENCED !!!

In other words, the dealership is NOT the place to go for this type of repair.

Yep, definitely not. A welding shop is the place to go, or a mobile welder that is willing to do it and shows up at the spot. That would be my way to go.

 

[Topzide]

TIG weld it in place is the best fix without having the oil pan replaced. A call to the dealership to explain what has happened and give them the options, they replace the pan or the cost of having it TIG welded. With TIG welding, heat is kept in a smaller more controlled area. That's my .02 of the matter. Good luck with repair.

 

[Turbo Terry]

The right welder can do amazing things. And j b weld is awesome stuff but I think I would have the pan replaced. Which reminds me I need to get a Genos plug so it doesn’t happen to me Which one is the best ?

 

[SSchang]

I've had a couple different types of drain plugs, but I like the one that has a brass piece that stays in the pan, and a second brass piece and green hose. As you screw the brass piece and green house onto the piece in the pan, it opens a valve and lets the oil drain.