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Homemade rail cap, WOW!!!!!

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Where to sense fuel pressure on 05 CTD

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Rail Cap

GOOD NEWS !!



I'll be testing a rail cap set up on my truck. Please respond to me thru e-mail your interest in the rail cap !!. With successful testing I'll be getting kits together !! Parts for the kit are already in the works, so shipping will be within 24 of receiving payment.
 
Has anyone went to the track before and after the cap mod? My dually quits smoking just after it comes off the line. . Runs clean down the track doing 13. 5's at 101. . I was just looking for a little faster time slip...
 
Morse said:
Has anyone went to the track before and after the cap mod? My dually quits smoking just after it comes off the line. . Runs clean down the track doing 13. 5's at 101. . I was just looking for a little faster time slip...



it depends on a few things, first is how much pressure are you running and how much is demanded. if you are running 22k and you pump is requesting 25k then you could use a rail cap. why? you are loseing pressure (power) through your relief valve, givin that the rest of your fuel system is in good working order. also are you running a pressure box or a timing and duration box. a pressure box adds pressure to the system while a timing and duration box depleates pressure, so it things like this you need to consider. :cool:
 
Morse said:
I'm running the crazy larry programming. . To my understanding it adds some pressure as well. .

Not really. I only see 23K with my crazy larry. I also have a seperate pressure box that I run for pressure only when needed. I have monitored as much as 27-28K(limit of factory sending unit) with the two combined and the CP3 had no problems keeping up. :cool: So I know the crazy larry was not draining the rail
 
Just a curious question. If stock bango bolt is metal and I add a metal bolt in its place why would you think the solid bolt would fail? If the valve is blown letting the pressure past isn't it the same. Then the bango bolt will fail. Right.



After reading this post earlier got me curious. After running tst, 100 horse enjectors and ramifier truck seemed to be slow. Yep valve is shot. I removed bango nut installed aluminum rivot upside down (old hammer style) and reinstalled bolt. If rivot does give way wouldn't it be sent to filter anyways? I checked bolt after a few passes and don't see any changes on rivot. Time will tell.
 
Fitchconstruction said:
Just a curious question. If stock bango bolt is metal and I add a metal bolt in its place why would you think the solid bolt would fail? If the valve is blown letting the pressure past isn't it the same. Then the bango bolt will fail. Right.



After reading this post earlier got me curious. After running tst, 100 horse enjectors and ramifier truck seemed to be slow. Yep valve is shot. I removed bango nut installed aluminum rivot upside down (old hammer style) and reinstalled bolt. If rivot does give way wouldn't it be sent to filter anyways? I checked bolt after a few passes and don't see any changes on rivot. Time will tell.



did you see a d/f?
 
I don't understand why it's so hard to take a hollow bolt out and put a solid bolt in? No muss, no fuss and no return line to block off or eliminate ... ... ... ..... cost is less than a buck!
 
Fitchconstruction said:
Just a curious question. If stock bango bolt is metal and I add a metal bolt in its place why would you think the solid bolt would fail? If the valve is blown letting the pressure past isn't it the same. Then the bango bolt will fail. Right.



After reading this post earlier got me curious. After running tst, 100 horse enjectors and ramifier truck seemed to be slow. Yep valve is shot. I removed bango nut installed aluminum rivot upside down (old hammer style) and reinstalled bolt. If rivot does give way wouldn't it be sent to filter anyways? I checked bolt after a few passes and don't see any changes on rivot. Time will tell.



And did the HP pick back up?



BTW - cool idea!
 
JHardwick said:
I don't understand why it's so hard to take a hollow bolt out and put a solid bolt in? No muss, no fuss and no return line to block off or eliminate ... ... ... ..... cost is less than a buck!



The potential problem is you or putting 26-30Kpsi of pressure on a banjo fitting that is probably not designed to take it. When the relief valve typically pops the fuel pressure going through the banjo is not near as high. The pressure in the banjo before it blows is probably right around 0psi since it is a return line not flowing any fuel.
 
JHardwick, thats exactly what I did. Its been working great ever since I started this post. My rail may crack tomorrow or blow 6 injector bodies, but today its working awesome. The only thing I did different than what your talking about is that I took the return off and stuck a bolt in the top of the valve. Then I put another bolt and nut in the return line banjo hole. I used a rubber coated washer on each side just like it had with the banjo. I'm very happy with it, especially since it cost about $1.
 
what about replacing the banjo on the return line with a "modified" one?



One with say a pinhole so that you get some degree of protection/release, but even if the relief valve goes off low its going to keep a very high pressure on the rail with a slow bleed off?
 
Blacksdieselhp,



The difference I see between your approach and JHardwick is that you are holding the relief valve closed with your bolt, as apposed to blocking the flow of fuel after the relief valve releases. I'm not saying JHardwick's solution won't work (as it obviously already does), I think I would just be more comftorable with your approach of holding down the existing releif valve.



With that said [Soap Box ON] I personally think blocking the relief valve is asking for trouble as it is there as a safety relief to keep other parts of the fuel system from failing and causing damage and possible personal injury [Soap Box OFF]
 
ModifiedDiesel said:
With that said [Soap Box ON] I personally think blocking the relief valve is asking for trouble as it is there as a safety relief to keep other parts of the fuel system from failing and causing damage and possible personal injury [Soap Box OFF]



Truer words were probably never spoken. I rigged mine up temporary to try and determine that the valve was actually shot, LOL ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ..... now I'm having a hard time spending the $350. 00 since it's back to full power and cost $0. 49 :-{} <~~arguing with self
 
Did you ask is the power back! Oh yea. I can toy with a sebring today with three tens in it. Should of seen their faces. Only if they know I had 20 sheets of 7/8 plywood in the bed. :D This is the top of mods I've done. I just looked at the bango fitting to be on the save side. Aluminum rivot has NO marks on it. I'm thinking so far that it must ack like an other hose. If you plug one end with out the air or fluid to release fliud will not take that path. So which direction will it take?
 
ModifiedDiesel said:
With that said [Soap Box ON] I personally think blocking the relief valve is asking for trouble as it is there as a safety relief to keep other parts of the fuel system from failing and causing damage and possible personal injury [Soap Box OFF]





I agree as well. On the other hand, it's a damn shame that you can ruin the relief valve with ONE hard run on a stock engine/drive train. Ask me how I know.
 
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all you need (for gen 3 ) is a 14mm /1. 50 thread x 20-25mm long add one washer as spacer under head of bolt then add the rubber sealing washer. Make sure metric bolt is 10. 9 hardness or higher, i used a german lug bolt and 2 washers i got those from advance auto and it costs $3. 75. all you do is remove the return line banjo bolt and put the bolt in its place, the added length of the bolt will hold the relief valve down as well, had mine on for a month now and no signs of wear or leaks. .
 
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I have been thinking that I may have a problem but today I put my diablo in diagnostics and with the extreme tune in I had 36 MPa or about 5200 psi at idle and 162 MPa or 23500 psi at WOT so it looks like all is well and that my relief valve is holding. :D
 
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