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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission how prone are the alloy wheels to cracking?

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) new thermostat

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission cigerett and dash power

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so i had a nice surprise when i went to get 4 new tires put on today. 2 cracked rims. glad my tire guy was on the ball on found them. i think i have seen it discussed before just curious if this was a big problem with 2nd gen alloys or not. i know around here salvage yards wont resell alloys off a 2nd gen for this reason. guess i'm gonna put steel wheels on it so i dont have to worrying about it again.
 
I have two complete sets of OEM alum. rims (summer set and winter set). In 240,000 miles, I've only had 1 rim develop a crack.



It was major difficulties finding on locally, but eventually did.



At the first opportunity, I bought another complete set of OEM's on ebay to have on hand as backup. Fortunately, I haven't needed any of them.
 
Although I have no factual data to back this up, In my opinion, the guys who tow heavy often experience this crack issue. I had 4 trucks with these rims and never had one crack. I never tow. All my reading and dealing with an old boss who hauled heavy ALL the time is what makes me come up with this conclusion. This is just my experience... . Thoughts??

Dave
 
PS ~ Note in TboneMan signature, he pulls a travel trailer. Although this is not heavy, I am slowing trying to prove towing is what does the damage.
 
I had two bad rims when I had new tires put on last time. I found different some at a junkyard. Mine cracked where the tire bead seats and one even leaked air and I knew I had a bad rim when I went in, but not two. I think next time I am going to buy some aftermarket rims, unless I find a good deal on some stock rims. I do tow often.
 
Please keep in mind that when I say towing is the cause, in NO way is this operator error. There is a design flaw that in my opinion, seems to rear its ugly head while towing trailers. As long as I have been on TDR, and as many posts I have read about this, the only link I seem to find is TOWING. I currently have a set of new aluminum and I have 4 spare tire rims that came both 01's and both 02's. They will all be powder coated and made into a match set.
 
Another vote for the towing link to the cracked rims. What did you do to solve this issue? New rims? Weld shut? Where I used to work, they were welded shut and never seemed to reoccur. As mentioned, I have 4 steel spares that could be powder coated and made into a VERY nice steel set. PM me for more details.



~PS I am in northern MI
 
I know the 3rd gen alloy wheels are very strong the only time I have seen them crack is air down in high speed off road applications, there 17" but may be a good upgrade. The Power Wagon wheels are even better
 
Another vote for the towing link to the cracked rims. What did you do to solve this issue? New rims? Weld shut? Where I used to work, they were welded shut and never seemed to reoccur. As mentioned, I have 4 steel spares that could be powder coated and made into a VERY nice steel set. PM me for more details.



~PS I am in northern MI



i havent done anything currently. still doing some checking locally for steel rims. havent had much luck at salvage yards. my brother is also checking around for me as well. i will let you know what i do. i may be interested if i cant find any locally. as far as 3rd gen wheels goes, 17in tires are more expensive where i buy tires. my truck is silver so steels will look fine on it anyway.
 
The winner is: The lowest bidder. Those stinkin' wheels are cheap made, and don't hold up. I've seen several dozen broken. Seems to me it's the vibrations and road stress. The trucks I see from Western Texas all seem to have the chronic problem. The rough roads, dirt roads, and carrying a trailer or just whatever in the back make 'em break like glass. The trucks I see around the DFW area don't have the breaking like the western trucks, unless they're 4x4 and they go off roading. There is a reason why. They are cheap cast aluminum. Low bid. Poor quality. Nothing new for OEM. I've got one set on an '01 gas rig I use to feed and check cattle in, and I have a rear right one that's got a slow leak. I'm sure when I pull it down, it's gonna have a crack somewhere. There's a customer's '01 in my yard that's got a flat, and i know it's cracked, I can see it, and if you pour water over it, it bubbles. There is also a brand new set of Eagle alloys in my shop waiting to go on it when I get the time to fix it. Eagle Alloy wins my vote for quality, as they use an injection mold forging, which basically presses the molten aluminum into the mold, and squeezes the air out of it. Only thing better in aluminum is Alcoa. All others are made out of country. Alcoa forges a solid peice of round rolled aluminum @ 17" in diameter and however long, hammer forges it, heat treats it, and then cuts a wheel out of it. Not the cheap way, but the strongest way. Of course, they cost twice what others do, too. Personally, I go with Eagle's or steel wheels from Rickson or Stockton Wheel.
 
I thought of going to a 3 gen wheels on my truck, but after I looked at the tires: OEM size 265/70-17E were rated less than my OEM size 265/75-16E, and they cost more per tire. So for me there is no benefit for having to buy 5 wheels/tires from a 3 gen truck. It does not make sense to me. I'll be looking for a set of 16" Eagle or Alcoa (if I can afford the Alcoa).
Ilian
 
Just so you know, the Aloca 16x7 Factory replacement wheel set I can sell at $875. This includes the center cap, lug nuts, lug nut covers. Just for a price reference..... If you can find it cheaper, it's probably a good deal.
 
been a little busy lately so i havent been able to update. i got lucky and my brother found a set of the early 2nd gen wheels, the chrome plated steel ones. $200 for all 4 and center caps. they need a good polishing but look just as good as the ones i had on. thanks for all the help and advice.
 
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