Here I am

I may have to get a 68RFE in my new truck.

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Almost none of the trucks at Kernersville have the puck system installed on the 3500s they seem to like to install the BW 1320 for 850 dollars yes I get it and the 649 doc fee is just extra dealer profit.
 
Why does the Anderson put the weight behind the axle? That's not where you want it.

The weight is also not centered on the Anderson hitch, which means a lot of leverage on the aft crossmember. Probably why GM's need bed reinforcements.

Still not sure why you would want a hitch that puts all that pin weight onto the bed sheet metal instead of the hitch. The bed deals will all the torque forces, not the frame.

Pick a better Hitch to be a dealer for, and sell/use those.

Almost none of the trucks at Kernersville have the puck system installed on the 3500s they seem to like to install the BW 1320 for 850 dollars yes I get it and the 649 doc fee is just extra dealer profit.

$649 doc fee :mad: I'd go somewhere else just for that. I paid around $150 doc fee with a Seattle dealership.

They can add the OEM system to your truck. You don't have to use the B&W unless you want to.

Using the Anderson Bed shaft seem better than the B&W GN ball, as it has fewer parts. There's probably a reason Anderson says it's 33% stronger than just using a GN Ball.
 
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They set back the ball because so many people have the six four truck bed and its the only way to prevent the RV from hitting the rear window in a turn or just go eight foot bed.
 
Being paranoid and my mechanical engineering background I did a free body diagram analysis on the Anderson Hitch. Let me just say I would not put that in my truck nor tow with one. Especially since they are now made out of AL. One little ding in one of the support legs and all I have to say is good by bed and trailer. The bending moment alone scares me with the offset of the king pin mount on this hitch. You are also relying a lot on the welding of AL structures and from 40 years of manufacturing experience I have never seen very good welds on AL.

Just my very humble opinion and $0.02
 
They set back the ball because so many people have the six four truck bed and its the only way to prevent the RV from hitting the rear window in a turn or just go eight foot bed.

Or buy a slider hitch with a short bed, besides you get a better hitch that attaches directly to the frame that way.

Nothing like spending 70K on a truck to get a hitch designed for a short box.

I honestly cannot think of one single benefit to the Anderson Hitch. You’re buying a real HD truck, get a real HD hitch.
 
I said I was a dealer and not everybody has a truck like the one that I'm looking at the purchase you know $79,000 not everybody has that some people have 2500 some people have this some people have that the Andersen ultimate 5th wheel connection is obviously not for everybody nor is a Freightliner sport chassis it's just the way it is different strokes for different folks.
 
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I thought you were getting the AISIN truck?

None of those are required for what you’re doing. Save your wife's money, or spend it on the AISIN.
 
I see hear a picture of the lippert trailair air ride 5th wheel pin box on the jayco 377rlbh here's a picture of it.
IMG_4161.jpg





I see hear a picture of the lippert trailair air ride 5th wheel pin box on the jayco 377rlbh here's a picture of it.


HERE YOU GO THE TRAILAIR AND ULTIMATE FIFTH WHEEL IN MOTION.
 
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This is my set-up on my truck. I have an 18K Demco Glide Auto Sliding hitch (expensive yes, but worth it) and a 18K TrailAir king pin box for my Cedar Creek. I have towed a year and a half with this combination. 95% of the chucking and bounce has been eliminated for me with this towing set-up. I have with no worry about hitch failure or ding the cab of the. I use to pull with a Reese manual slider hitch, but this finally wore out and was replaced by the Demco Hitch.

I did consider a Pullrite hitch, but this required an additional expense of a capture plate which the Demco Glide does not require.

I do use a deep dish Al Mag-Hytec transmission oil pan with temp gage but that is all I need for pulling my trailer. My temps I normally see on an 90 DEG ambient day are under 200F when towing. No bypass valve or steel treaded adapter are required. In fact I would be afraid of the threaded adapter because you are introducing dissimilar metals in the transmission, plus an orifice do to the threaded adapter. I have 127K miles on my transmission along with other who have gone at least 250K on their 68RFE towing commercial with a 3500DRW truck, without the steel treaded adapter and bypass valve without any issues. I would save your money these are not required.
 
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