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I may have to get a 68RFE in my new truck.

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RAM 2015 problems

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Please, look at you own photos, and look at the amount of coach that is behind the trailer axles. It is acting like a teeter-totter. Just imagine how much leverage there is back there. This is why semi trailers, and gooseneck horse trailers have the axles way more rearward. A good percentage of what you carry in the coach will be hitch weight. Before you throw money away, fully outfit the trailer, full tanks and all the fixin's, and try it again. What's the downside?
 
I watched your video you posted back a few pages, is the pin rearward of the axle? If it is turn the anderson hitch the other way so your forward of the axle.
 
I tow very heavy with my truck pulling a 34RL Cedar Creek using a Trailair pin box. This is my second trailer with a Trailair pin box. I love them since they eliminate a lot of the bounc on the roads when you tow. I would estimate about 90 to 95% of the harshness of the rough roads as the trailer is towed.

I would Air your bag up in the Trailair pin box so, the shock is even with the top of the line on the bottom of the shock. Marked by arrow tip. This is the correct ride height for the Trailair pin box to eliminate the bouncing you will feel in the truck. The air pressure could be as high as 100 PSI I know my bag is close to 95 PSI air pressure in the bag.

Now the Trailair pin box will do nothing for chucking that can occur between the king pin and the slop around the hitch jaws. When I changed my hitch to a Demco Glide Autoslider hitch the slop between hitch jaws was eliminated. This is do to the design feature of having a tight fitting hitch jaws around the king pin to work with the sliding feature of the hitch. Thus no chucking occurs.

If you have any slop in the king pin joint you will get chucking which can be volient in some trucks.

I believe the Anderson hitch that you have has introduced slop in two places one at the device that attaches to your kin pin. Than this device again when connected to the ball on the Anderson hitch is also introducing some more slop. This is accentuated by the height of the Anderson hitch ball on the hitch.

The Morryde king pin box may work for chucking but will do nothing for the bouncing that can occur.

If you are determined to replace your current Trailair pin box I would look at the Trailair Flex Air pin box rated for the 18,000 lbs trailer.
 
Yes it is acting like a teetertotter seesaw the axles on the trailer are in my opinioin too far forward so yes thats the motion that is being made the pin weight is just kind of going up and down I guess when we have some weight in it the trailer will be different.

This is a learning process guys.
 
It looks like its an inch or two behind the center of the axle but thats the way the Andersen works, if I were do this over again I would go for a BW COMPANION and the Flexair but for me to do that now would cost almost 2500 bucks more and have a fight with the rv dealership.

I am an andersen dealer but for a long bed crew cab dually its really not necessary however I do love the TRAILER JACK BLOCKS........................................https://andersenhitches.com/Products/36086cs--trailer-jack-block-6-pack.aspx
 
Listen to others, you need to have your RV "LOADED" before anything can be critiqued!!!

Nothing wrong with your TrailAir pin box. One can argue your ANDERSEN is moving fore and aft as they do. Get the pin ahead of the center of rear axle especially when you have a long bed.

This is my hitch setup with 5,800# pin and tugging 23-25k. I also have rear air that I run in ALT all the time.

I have no chucking!!!

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Is that the Trailair that slides forward and backward kind of like the Moreride I think it was called the TRIGLIDE????? the regular Flexair does not have the three bolts on the bottom, or I may have missed them???
 
okay guys I've got it here here's the weight scale ticket with a full tank of fuel and full deaf and me and my wife and not much in the truck or the trailer but okay here's the basic wait right here without any tanks full of whatever or water or gray tank or black tank or freshwater tank.
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Listen to others, you need to have your RV "LOADED" before anything can be critiqued!!!

I have a slight disagreement with this statement, you should be able to attach the 5ver at the dry weight and pull OK. The added weight might help with the OP's issue, or hurt him. If the pin is not forward of the axle, he can experience a porpoising effect of the rig. A neighbor of mine had a 96 CTD that pulled a 27' 5ver without issue. I had a 94 2500 gasser and bought a used 27' 5ver and needed to install the rails for a cheap RBW 16K 5ver hitch. As I followed the detailed instructions it wanted me to put the center on the pin 1" to 2" forward of the axle. So I was curious, and asked if I could get the measurements from the neighbors 96 CTD, he granted me permission to climb in the bed with his setup (He had the same hitch.) and get them. I found it to be 1" rear of the axle and pointed out to him what the instructions stated, he said thats what the installer set it at. I did not follow that example and I put mine 1" forward of the axle. A few years went by, and he bought a brand new 5ver in the 35' class. I asked him how does the 96 CTD pull that big of a 5ver? His answer was not surprising, he claimed he had to be carefull because the front end lightened up causing a weird suspension feel. He measured what I told him about the 1" rear of the axle and confirmed it. Because the 5ver was so heavy and a little over weight for the cheap RBW 16K lb hitch, he bought a heavier rated hitch and had it installed 1" forward of the axle. He stated the ride improved and felt good, and you could also see the frontend of the truck was no longer higher when hitched. Fast forward to 2004, I bought a set of brakets for my 04.5 CTD that clamped to the new hydroformed frame (No drilling or welding allowed) and had no adjustment of where the hitch would be, after installing it, the pin was again 1" forward of the axle. I pulled my Arctic Fox to the scales with the 04.5 to have it weighed to know if I was within the axle rating and was at dry weight except for the Propane tanks being full. It turned out to be just under the RAWR and FAWR. So I took it on a test drive, and it felt good, the CTD with the NV5600 manual trans handled it flawlessly. OP, do your self a favor and turn that system 180* and then pull it again and see what it does. As far as the Video I watched, that adaptor was surely all over the place, that alone can cause you an issue. Get the B&W Puck system with the Companion, regardless of your loyalty to your brand or cost. Why cheap out on a system that is suspect, as well as the safety factor, with the best in Class (in my opinion best ever CTD Ram) truck with the luxury to enjoy a smooth quiet ride, when a good stable platform like B&W will give you years of enjoyment.
 
Ok so how do I make sense of the numbers guys I have no clue?????????????? but I think the SRW would have been way over weight lol.

Those numbers are well within your ratings, and yes a SRW would have gotten out of its ratings quickly. The SRW would be about 6500 on the rear axle, which doesn’t leave much room for more pin weight.

Since you don’t have a scale ticket of the truck without the trailer this is just a guess.

It appears the trailer has about 3300 lbs of pin weight, and a empty weight of closer to 14,700. It’s about 700lbs heavier than the brochure weight. With about 400 of it on the pin and 300 on the axles.
 
Please, look at you own photos, and look at the amount of coach that is behind the trailer axles. It is acting like a teeter-totter. Just imagine how much leverage there is back there.


I would take a long look at this comment. All RV's are not created equal, then you toss in about 20 floor plans per manufacture.

Note where your large driver side slide out is, there is also a slide in the same location on the passenger side, all aft of the trailer axles. Since there is no side wall support (big hole in the wall on both sides) the main frame is doing all the work. If it is not up to the task, it will flex at that location. Frame flex will beat you to death.

Don't get me wrong, that is a beautiful RV, however, just because an RV manufacture built it, don't always make it right. They can mess it up, concentrating on bling and overlook what is important. RV manufactures come and go, constantly.

In my opinion, both of those slides should be centered over the trailer axles.
 
Where is your unloaded weight ticket?

I assume your rear axle weight would have been around 3,900# so that would give you about 3k pin. So that puts you at around 20% pin.

You need to use the weight/inflation chart for your tires, look under Dual wheel. Add 5psi to what the chart calls for. Your individual tire weight is 1,730#, use that number.

Proper pin, you seem to have the minimum required and will be better with "STUFF" added. Get your tires inflated properly! Leave the fronts at 80 always.

As I and others have mentioned get your pin ahead of rear axle if possible.

See if you can place shims under your hitch base right above the bed crossmember frame location to make base more solid and not be able to move fore and aft.
 
I watched your video you posted back a few pages, is the pin rearward of the axle? If it is turn the anderson hitch the other way so your forward of the axle.

Take a look at his pictures on post #211, he has the adapter turned towards the cab, it looks like to me, if so he is as far forward as he can get. Unfortunately the Andersen he has ,the hitch itself I believe ,can only be run with the offset in the rear position. Unlike the Andersen rail mount which can be run either way, towards the cab, or rearward .
 
If you have not already, why don't you join over at jaycoowners.com. There is quite a lot of info available on the North Point line that may be helpful in the future.
 
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