I solved the slow fillup problem on my '03

[Spooled-up]

Yo Hoot,



I see what you're saying. The reason I specify using the 11/16th hole saw is that it requires you to thread the fitting down into the tank even before you put the nut on. When I went in search of a bulkhead fitting to use, one guy at a marine supply store said that they just thread the fitting down into the tank and it seals fine without the nut on the back. I realize that's just what they do, and it seems kind of like a jury rig that way, but with the nut on the back, the fitting threaded into the tank, and the o-ring there to back it up, I don't forsee any problems with it leaking.

I've been looking for some other kinds of fittings to maybe simplify this whole kit and make it a little cheaper, but bulkhead fittings are hard to find. I'd like to just cap the factory vent and run a new vent line to the metal vent on the fill neck, but finding a 3/4" bulkhead fitting with a 90 degree bend in it is proving to be a challenge.

 

[Jeff_K]

Spooled Up,



Installed my kit today. Went in pretty easy. Thanks again.



Jeff

 

[Patriot_RAM]

I can't find my directions to see whether or not this was already in there, but -- Mine didn't work right every time after the install. Sometimes it would top off in 10 - 15 seconds, other times 10 minutes. Seemed random to me. It hit me tonight and I think I know what is happening. My new vent line running from the raised part of the tank to the original vent line has one small section that is sagging. If fuel happens to get in the part that is sagged, no air will pass through because the fuel won't drain back into the tank.



Seems like common sense now that I think about it! I'm going to see if I can rectify the issue tomorrow. Thanks for the kit!!!

 

[MMeier]

David, if it is sagging where I think it is, couldn't you just tie strap the new vent line to the fill neck in a couple of places? Now for my problem, the first time i attempted the install, I broke the dang lil' tab off the electrical connector!!! #@$%! Anyone know if the thing will still come off, I tried to get in there with a small screwdriver but no luck. I am thinking I will just cut the wires and reconnect them afterwards and seal them with shrink wrap to keep out the nasties, any one else have a different opinion on what to do ??? Thanks Mark

 

[Jeremiah]

You might try places that sell water tanks. As a result of the drought the last few years, my well dried up and forced me to haul water. I bought a 300-gallon tank that included bulkhead fittings as large as 2 inches. However, I don't remember seeing any brass stuff.



I'd also try a hose and bearing business. I found one in Colorado Springs that sells brass fittings in all kinds of sizes.

 

[TBrennan]

The electrical connector will come off with the red tab removed, I actually pulled the tab completely out. I just installed an ESPAR fuel pump on my tank so I went through the same things you guys are. I actually cursed the man who designed the "quick" connect fuel line fittings. I'm sure that somehwere in Chrysler there is an inside joke about them, kinda like giving a really big man the nickname "tiny". :-laf It literally took me 2 - 3 hours of struggling to remove them and probably 30 minutes to get them back on. (Note that there are two different sizes, the return line is smaller than the feed line).





The ESPAR bulkhead fitting uses a threaded part that passes through the cut hole (not threaded) and just a metal washer on the inside of the tank. The outside uses a thick rubber washer and a large metal washer on top of that.

 

[Spooled-up]

Mark,



Don't cut the wires! If you look in the engine compartment, you can take a red tab out of one of the connectors behind the driver's side battery if you need to. Tbrennan may be correct that the connector will come off with the tab removed. I had a dodge service tech tell me that it would not come off with it removed. If you have any trouble, just to be on the safe side, use the tab from the engine compartment connector to get it off and on agan, then use a tie wrap to hold the engine compartment connector on as it's easier to get to and check every now and then.



Many people have had trouble with the fuel line connectors. Once you get a look at them, it becomes clear how to line things up and get them on and off. I have some pics of the connectors in my reader's rigs that should help you get an idea of how to remove these things. I agree, some Chrysler engineer chuckles just before he falls to sleep at night with a little grin on his face when he thinks of his design and all the trouble we would have with these things.

 

[Yo Hoot]

Yo Hoot,



I see what you're saying. The reason I specify using the 11/16th hole saw is that it requires you to thread the fitting down into the tank even before you put the nut on. When I went in search of a bulkhead fitting to use, one guy at a marine supply store said that they just thread the fitting down into the tank and it seals fine without the nut on the back. I realize that's just what they do, and it seems kind of like a jury rig that way, but with the nut on the back, the fitting threaded into the tank, and the o-ring there to back it up, I don't forsee any problems with it leaking.

I've been looking for some other kinds of fittings to maybe simplify this whole kit and make it a little cheaper, but bulkhead fittings are hard to find. I'd like to just cap the factory vent and run a new vent line to the metal vent on the fill neck, but finding a 3/4" bulkhead fitting with a 90 degree bend in it is proving to be a challenge.

I really don't think you need the o-ring at all. It's a nuisance. Since the threads seal pretty well, a washer made of something impervious to #2 should be all u need. You also have the nut on the other side. I know for a fact my o-ring squeezed out. I was not happy.

 

[PKitchen]

I installed Spooled-up's kit over the weekend. Everything went smoothly except disconnection of the electrical connector. In my short-bed truck, I could only fit one hand to the connector. Using one hand, I wasn't able to squeeze hard enough on the tab while pulling at the same time. After half an hour I discovered a slick trick to getting the connector off. I have a mini Vice Grips that I used to squeeze and hold the tab. Once I did that, the connector came right off. Here's a few other tips for future installers:



- having a couple of floor jacks to raise/lower the tank is very helpful.

- don't bother using the o-ring. It just pops out anyway.

 

[Jeremiah]

Results are in!

Results are on Spooled-up's kit. I had 684 on the odometer and 40 left on the overhead DTE. Refueling took 34. 4 gallons. Very pleased. Oo.

 

[MMathewson]

I installed Spooled-up's kit about a week ago. Deep sockets made it easy to undo the supports. The hardest problem for me was the disconnection of the 2nd fuel line. The 1st fuel connector took me about 30 seconds. The electrical connector took me about a minute. The 2nd fuel connector took me over an hour. Just couldn't get my fingers in. I ran it 20 miles past DTE=0. Had about an inch to 1 1/2 inches of fuel left. Lesson learned: Don't try to drain the fuel sender unit. It contains a few inches of fuel in it. Diesel fuel is smelly and doesn't clean off your clothes. Total fillup took 37. 0 gallons. Only could put in about 0. 1 gallons after the shut-off. Quite pleased! Drove 110 miles (50% city/ 50% highway) so far and fuel gage just came off the peg and is now sitting at "F".

 

[MMeier]

David, and others, the red tab is not what I broke, I broke off the grey tab on the connector itself, maybe I'll take out the red tab all together and try the vise grip routine and see what else i can do

 

[Yo Hoot]

- don't bother using the o-ring. It just pops out anyway.

Especially if you tighten the nut after putting locktite on the threads.

 

[RKerner]

David, and others, the red tab is not what I broke, I broke off the grey tab on the connector itself, maybe I'll take out the red tab all together and try the vise grip routine and see what else i can do

The grey tab seems to break easily. I broke mine and then came in from the back side with a small screwdriver to disengage the tab and then squeezed the connector like Spooled up's pix illustrate, wiggled it a bunch and it finally came off. That was after totally removing the red retaining clip. I tried a small needlenose Vice grips but didn't have too much luck after the tab broke off.

 

[Patriot_RAM]

The cam and crank sensor connectors have the same type of plug. They are a PAIN in the butt. I understand how they work, but with time, mud, etc, they tend to bind up and become functionally worthless. Not only did I have to battle with the one on the tank, but the other two when I installed my TST box.

 

[Dean Upson]

Spooled-up's kit went on The Great Silver Beast today and I put 33. 404 gallons in ($73. 46!!!!!!). That is the most I ever put in (gallon-wise and $$$$-wise), topping it off was a pleasure compared to before, I don't think it took more than a minute or so after the pump first shut off. I am more than happy with this little mod. Thank's, Dave Oo. Oo. .



Dean

 

[Eric_77]

I am wondering what a stock tank really holds. I put 38. 7 gallons in my non modified tank (I was stuck in traffic with a trailer and went 45 miles after DTE went to zero actual MPG about 10) and this was not even topped off as I thought it was but the tank burped and there was no fuel visible in the fuel neck when I went to put cap back on.

 

[Jeremiah]

Stock tank capacity

If you looked at your fuel tank, I'm sure you saw the tall expansion chamber where the vent hose mod went. In theory, this section should not fill up under normal circumstances. If you're getting that number of gallons in the tank, I'm guessing that some of it is going into the expansion chamber.

 

[rfoust]

The kit is great. After installing it I went down to fill up and I got over 36 gallons in----but I had to run the card twice because they only allow you to pump 75. 00 at a time. Then I drove 150 miles before the guage came off of full---285 miles to 3/4. Great kit and instructions Spooled Up.

 

[JohnnyH]

I got my kit installed on Thursday evening. The only problem I had was getting the middle fuel line off. The electrical plug and outside fuel line took about 30 seconds combined. The middle one took about 1. 5 hours. I did the job myself in my driveway, at night, with a jack and 2 jack stands. When I started the project my DTE showed 35. I would not recommend doing it with more fuel than that if you are working by yourself, without the right tools.



Anyway, I went and filled up to the neck and put 37 gallons in faster than I ever have. In fact, I've never before filled till I saw clear fuel in the neck. I always ran out of patience after about 5-10 minutes. So far I've traveled 145 miles and the needle hasent even moved off of the peg. I've probably got at least 30 miles or so till it gets to the full mark. Great kit. Thanks David, good job.



John