i tried a search first...but HELP is appreciated

[JLEONARD]

Don,

Are you saying the new lift pump apparently corrected the problem? Awsum.



You should put the old pump in a vise and hacksaw the retaining band and pull the pump apart and inspect it. Tell us what failed. That may make more sense of it all.



Jay

 

[Don Tanklage]

i will cut the pump open and let you know what i find



it is still idling rough sometimes



but i have narrowed it down a little



truck has two tanks - stock and a huge alum one in what is left of the bed



has two valves on drivers side floor board



when i switch to primary tank it starts running rough almost right away now



so, either the supply line for that tank or the valve is leaking



but it still does it a little bit running off the aux tank



so, maybe its sucking air in thru the valve but mostly when on the primary tank?



dunno - gonna get some blue hose and some good pushlock fittings and redo the aux tank from supply to lift pump, no valves



if it still does it - either i got a bunk lift pump from cummins or the ve needs parts



has anyone bought one and had it be bad from the gate?



i dont see how, it still revs nice to 3k (if i want it to)



went to a race today, pulled trailer great, just gets peoples attn when at a light



lol



don

 

[MMiller]

You need to figure it out soon. When my springs broke, the pump shop knew what the problem was, and told me not to drive it until they could get to it. When they took it apart, I only needed springs. George my pump guy said that if I kept running it with broken springs then the pump head would have been ruined. He had one setting there that had a ruined head due to the broken springs.



Good luck with the problem. I'd have a hard time believing the lift pump is bad. A pressure gauge screwed into the fuel filter base, and taped to the windshield will tell you if the lift pump is bad after just a short ride.



Michael

 

[Leper]

IIWY I would direct plumb the main tank. Remove the switch valve from the equation and see what happens. If the problem goes away, you know why.

 

[Don Tanklage]

IIWY I would direct plumb the main tank. Remove the switch valve from the equation and see what happens. If the problem goes away, you know why.

what is iiwy?



that is what i am going to do



cant do it today, mesa hose is closed on sunday



as far as the "dont drive it if the springs are broke" part - i was on my way out of calif, headed for washington, when it started acting up. then i had to drive it all the way home. little late for that one, but thanks. at least now i know that if the springs are the culprit not to waste my time trying to pull the pump and rebuild it. the rpm does not jump, it only goes down. at a stop i have to slightly rest my foot on the pedal and idle it at a grand so it wont die. i will let you know

 

[MMiller]

what is iiwy?



that is what i am going to do



cant do it today, mesa hose is closed on sunday



as far as the "dont drive it if the springs are broke" part - i was on my way out of calif, headed for washington, when it started acting up. then i had to drive it all the way home. little late for that one, but thanks. at least now i know that if the springs are the culprit not to waste my time trying to pull the pump and rebuild it. the rpm does not jump, it only goes down. at a stop i have to slightly rest my foot on the pedal and idle it at a grand so it wont die. i will let you know

IIWY= If I were you... ... .



I'm not saying the pump is junk yet, I'm just saying, if the problem leads to the pump, don't keep driving it. Of course spend time troublshooting and chasing your problem, but I wouldn't be using the truck much at all until the problem is resolved. I drove mine to work and back(50 miles) for a week or two, and running around because mine problem was very intermentant. Then when we figured it was in the pump, the guy that did my pump work could not get to it for a week, and he recommended that I park it and no driving until it was fixed. That was my only warning... ... . trying to save you some heartache.



Michael

 

[Don Tanklage]

appreciate the heads up



truely do



i think my truck had at min 2 problems



weak lift pump - (have not got out the die grinder yet but a small round black plastic piece fell out of it a min ago?)



and air in lines - dont know if it is the lines themselves or possible the valves. not going to risk it, gonna start over



if there are broke springs in the pump they have already gone thousands of miles



lets hope they are not broke



thanks again

 

[Don Tanklage]

Don,

Are you saying the new lift pump apparently corrected the problem? Awsum.



You should put the old pump in a vise and hacksaw the retaining band and pull the pump apart and inspect it. Tell us what failed. That may make more sense of it all.



Jay

it didnt correct the problem



but it sure runs a lot better with the new one



cut it apart and diaphram is fine, both chk vlvs are fine



only thing wrong with it is the plastic nipple that is on the top of the springy thingy had broken off



my cam is in the trailer which is in storage or i would shoot you a pic



don

 

[Don Tanklage]

i dont remember who wanted to know, but someone did so here goes - it is fixed, i think... lol



got rid of all the plastic lines, replaced every rubber line, basically built a new fuel sys from tank to ve



went with the fass pump cuz they all scared me outta using the accel i use with gas motors



installed a 6 micron filter, a big one, under the truck, no more heater either



after i finished everything i flushed it (about a gal) into a bucket, then i bled it at the ve by cracking the line and turning it on and tightening



started right up, idled fine for about 30 seconds, then stumbled like it was doing before



i figured either it had air in it or the ve is wasted



drove it for 30 mins and it drove GREAT



came back and idled for 30 more and no more stumble



but...



on the way up north the problem seemed to have gone away and came back 500 miles later



guess at this point there is no way to know if the pump is okay or not, going to sonoma, if it does it once on the trip i will pull the pump when i get back



how long does it usually take to get the air out ?



thanks for all your help everyone



don

 

[MMiller]

How long to get the air out? Usually when it starts and idles for a few minutes(we'll say 10) and it starts fine, then the air is out, unless it is getting air from some where. Sounds like you changed everything to the VE.



It just stumbles, or cuts out, or dies out? No revving up going down the road yet? I had another thought, if it just stumbles, or cuts out, look at your connections to the shut off solenoid. For a while I would be driving my truck and get "dead pedal". It was just like the truck shut off going down the road. Then it would come back to life. It did it a few times to me, never did have it leave me on the side of the road. I put new connections on the wires to the shut off solenoid and the cold start solenoid. No problems since. Sorry I did not think of this sooner.



Michael

 

[Don Tanklage]

duh, i have done enough reading on here... i shoulda figured that out too! however, it seems to be running fine. no, great! but that is something to keep in mind for next time it starts acting up. i just hope i didnt hurt the ve driving it all those miles with little to no pressure and sucking air into the lines. yes, i changed everything from the tank to the ve. did you guys know they make fittings that lock onto the stock fuel tank so you can run good line instead of that plastic stuff?



don

 

[DValentine]

Do tell about said fitting.

 

[Don Tanklage]

my camera is in the trailer (in storage) or i would take a pic of it for you



i will when i return from next weekends race



anyhow, you can get a fitting that is mostly steel, some plastic, that snaps right onto the fuel tank outlet (it is a quick disconnect, like the stock one, only better quality) and then it is barbed so you can run 3/8 pushlok hose on it. i would still run a clamp tho. i ended up not using this one and will just run the truck off the aux tank (60-70 gal) for now.



they also make that dip tube or what ever they call it - which wouldnt be a bad way to go for one of these trucks with a modified motor and a stock fuel tank. i think those are avail in both 3/8 and 1/2"



i got that fitting from vulcan performance



one thing is for sure, i bet there are a lot of trucks running around with bad lines on them. and what really sucks is that not only do you not get optimum perf, i guess it can be bad on the ve too