i want to learn to weld...

[JWelch]

I have a question about remotes. I am used to the kind that go down to 10 and then up to a hundred %. Lately the only kind I have been seeing are going down to zero. My question is does the zero represent 0 amps or the lowest percentage of amps? TIA

 

[JWelch]

HA HA HA HA Dave you yanks talk funny as well.

 

[Coalsmoke]

I have a question about remotes. I am used to the kind that go down to 10 and then up to a hundred %. Lately the only kind I have been seeing are going down to zero. My question is does the zero represent 0 amps or the lowest percentage of amps? TIA

Depends on machine and the remote. Are we talking about something like a tig machine? My Dynasty on remote will go from 0 amps up to the setting I dial in at the machine, so if I dial in at 285A it will go from 0 (off) to 280A at max travel of the remote. Now my Lincoln Pipeliner engine drive would work in a different manner with an amperage range selector that would be fine tuned with the voltage dial. Of course a remote for a CV power source will often operate different than CC too. So, it all depends. Need more info about the specifics.

 

[JWelch]

The latest have been Miller Dynasty types I think. Or the big MaxStars. But I am interested in the remotes for engine driven as well don't get them very often on a job.

 

[Coalsmoke]

Well, since you're wondering about various types, the best advice I can offer is the check with the specific remote manufacturer for whatever your specific setup ends up being. Both have their own purpose for the type of work they are designed to do.

 

[JWelch]

The remotes I am talking about are were you set the machine at the maximum and then you have the remote that can then be set to use just a percentage of those max amps. Sorry I wasn't clear with the first post.

 

[Coalsmoke]

OK, most of those units work on the basis of zero on the remote is the minimum current output for the power source (usually somewhere between 15-30 amps) and 100 on the remote is the max amperage that has been pre-set on the power source using the current selector. This of course only holds true for CC units and not CV power sources.

 

[JWelch]

Thanks CS that what I thought but wasn't sure.

 

[DValentine]

Ya'll figure out what a Hibay welder is?

 

[JWelch]

Still not real sure.

 

[DValentine]

Here is a good one. I took at test the other day for a job at the Exxon refinery here in Billings. It was a down hand, open root plate test with 7048 rod. Anyone heard or used it? Exxon wants it used in the down hand position instead of 6010 for a root and fill. We are putting in new door sheets in a tank. It is a new one on me. I have welded with 7018 down hand, and this stuff is different. The slag moves out of the weld puddle better than 7018. This company, the contractor, didn't even have a weld procedure for the test. I tried to tell the weld inspector that I couldn't weld a test plate without a procedure. He didn't laugh. Well I did pass the test. Took some playing around with the amp setting though.

D

 

[GHarman]

Er-7048

This must be a new rod. Did a quick research on it and found this. Bottom of the page. GregH



Kjellberg Finsterwalde - Welding of mild and low alloyed steels



and this one. middle block, center.



Welcome to HYUNDAI WELDING.

 

[DValentine]

I'll let you know how it runs in the field, with old metal.

Oh yeah, the test coupons, plate, were cut across the grain. The straps almost broke, outside the HAZ. I also did a TIG tube test, and a 3 position open root E 7018 plate test.

 

[GHarman]

Dave, Are you saying that the rolling grain of your coupons was perpendicular to your weld (I would expect that, if the rolling grain was parallel to the weld. ) AND they still almost broke, outside the HAZ? What kind of material are you welding? A-36? Was it in bad condition?

Man, sounds like you're back into the swing of things! Just like ridin a bicycle. Stay Safe , Bud! Hows the Family? GregH

 

[DValentine]

The grain was parallel to the weld when the coupon was bent. Didn't rip but you could see stress lines.

The family is well. Riley is great. What a blessing.

D

 

[DJW]

Off thread, but can anyone tell me the duties of an Engine Room Artificer? Thanks, I thought that all 70 rod had to be run vertical, once on a winery doors, very heavy ones, the spects. called for 7018 three passes down hand on the hinges, I ran one vertical, for a start penetration, second amount of weld deposited owing to thickness of hinges, deposit of weld matched thickness of material being welded. Take two plates veed, run a pass downhand (top to bottom) bend open and see amount of weld metal deposited, I've found them as thin as paint. Not forgetting Gravity is pretty much all around us, and keeping gas coverage of molten metal is to be admired. Granted done very little rod welding for years so may be out of touch of things. At work whether welding Stainless, Aluminum or High tensile steel, weld a sample, quench it hot and fast in clean cold water, take it to the heavy vise and try to destroy it, that for each job. With my own business if changing procedure weld two test pieces, try and destroy one for myself, stamp date on other and put on shelf if others want an independent test. (Should have, could have, made a better living as a Lawyer without the dubious comfort of burned cloths and uncooperative skin at times, granted feels good after a good shower and all forgiven.

 

[RACE427]

Lincoln Electric Motorsports Welding School

Lincoln Electric has an excellent Motorsports Welding School in Cleveland, Ohio. I treated myself to both their basic 1 week class and their advanced 1 week class. Well worth the investment in your education !!! The instructors go out of their way to be certain you understand what is being taught. If you want to try a piece of welding equipment, they will have it set up for you to try and you can actually weld with it.

You can check them out on their web site, Lincoln Electric

click on "Welding School" I had a super great time when I was there !!!

Hope this help !! Tony G

 

[GHarman]

Lincoln Electric has an excellent Motorsports Welding School in Cleveland, Ohio. I treated myself to both their basic 1 week class and their advanced 1 week class. Well worth the investment in your education !!! The instructors go out of their way to be certain you understand what is being taught. If you want to try a piece of welding equipment, they will have it set up for you to try and you can actually weld with it.



You can check them out on their web site, Lincoln Electric



click on "Welding School" I had a super great time when I was there !!!



Hope this help !! Tony G

Tony, Man, what an experience! You cant beat that, anywhere! GregH

 

[RACE427]

Lincoln Electric Motorsports Welding School

If you can get one or more of your friends to attend with you, then a hotel room could be shared to cut down on that expense. What they teach and show you is awesome. You could be attending the class with welders or mechanics who are involved with Nascar or Indy cars. The Basic class is of great benefit and gets you started the correct way.



If they offered a 3rd Motorsports Class I would go back !! LOL



Tony G

 

[rbattelle]

I think I learned something....

Tonight I tried to weld together two pieces of steel of very different thickness.



I was using 3/32" 6013 to weld a piece of square tube, 0. 080" wall thickness, to a piece of 3/8" thick steel bar.



This is a purely decorative bit of work - a small novelty abacus someone asked me to make. So there is NO load carrying requirement. It simply needs to be "stuck together".



I was running at 60A, which is the maximum recommended for that size electrode. I was fillet-welding along the seam where the tube meets the steel bar. I held the electrode at about 45°, pointing straight into the corner of the seam.



What I found was that most of the weld material ended up being deposited on the thin-wall tube, and almost none was on the thick steel bar! Even when I changed my electrode angle to point more down, into the 3/8" bar, the weld material still deposited almost entirely on the thin-walled tube!



I was thinking that the thick steel bar was remaining too cold given the size of the electrode and the current setting, so all the heat went into the thin-walled tube. The filler metal simply followed the heat.



Does that sound about right? How can this be mitigated? Should I have pre-heated the joint? Should I have run with the electrode pointed straight down at the 3/8" thick steel bar?



I'm going to grind down the "welds" I made and maybe have another go at it, so I'd appreciate any pointers on this job.



Ryan