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I would like to understand how my fan/clutch works

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promisedland

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I am watching my fan speed of late and am wanting to expand my know-how of rpms= min & max/ if i unplug fan wire, or put a switch in to 'switch' off the fan for winter time....
How doe's the variable drive work?
And YUP! You can even 'like' the thread if you ,uh, like it! :D
 
Start here:
http://www.haydenauto.com/featured products-fan clutches and fan blades/content.aspx

Then in depth here:
http://www.haydenauto.com/upload/HaydenAuto/Documents/Cat_Hayden/Fan_Clutches_How_They_Work.pdf

And from experience and references the obsolete thermal spring fan clutches loose 200 RPM per year from leaks, silicone breakdown, and wear. So at 5 years it is 1000 RPM down and needs to be replaced. "My engine isn't overheating"... but your AC sure is. The Electronically controlled fan clutches (Like ours) can compensate for this till they reach their max on time and then trip a code.
 
The Electronically controlled fan clutches (Like ours) can compensate for this till they reach their max on time and then trip a code.

Or fulfill their copper deficiency by dining on the easily available connector cabling directly between the fan and radiator on the early 3Gen trucks!!!!:--)
 
The fan is controlled by the ECM based on speed, ECT, A/C pressure and probably a couple other variables. The clutch is also not a on/off clutch and it can be partially engaged.

RPM's are then based on %age of clutch applied and engine speed. Just driving down the road with the clutch at 0% will still have some rpm's based on fan drag and minimal engine rpm input.

Unplugging a fan wire will throw a soft code for sure and maybe a hard code (CEL).

You can look at your Touch and see how little the fan is actually commanded on in the winter so there isn't a good reason to disable it. I don't recall the last time I saw my fan engaged at any level.

Start here:
http://www.haydenauto.com/featured products-fan clutches and fan blades/content.aspx

Then in depth here:
http://www.haydenauto.com/upload/HaydenAuto/Documents/Cat_Hayden/Fan_Clutches_How_They_Work.pdf

And from experience and references the obsolete thermal spring fan clutches loose 200 RPM per year from leaks, silicone breakdown, and wear. So at 5 years it is 1000 RPM down and needs to be replaced. "My engine isn't overheating"... but your AC sure is. The Electronically controlled fan clutches (Like ours) can compensate for this till they reach their max on time and then trip a code.

The first link only deals with thermal clutches, which we don't have.
 
Thanks guys!
John, i have my Touch set on fan rpms, will this be 'actual' speed? As clutch wears, will this be commanded speed or 'real' speed?

And what is min/max RPMs?
 
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The fan is controlled by the ECM based on speed, ECT, A/C pressure and probably a couple other variables. The clutch is also not a on/off clutch and it can be partially engaged.

RPM's are then based on %age of clutch applied and engine speed. Just driving down the road with the clutch at 0% will still have some rpm's based on fan drag and minimal engine rpm input.

Unplugging a fan wire will throw a soft code for sure and maybe a hard code (CEL).

You can look at your Touch and see how little the fan is actually commanded on in the winter so there isn't a good reason to disable it. I don't recall the last time I saw my fan engaged at any level.



The first link only deals with thermal clutches, which we don't have.

So the 2nd link is how our fan clutches work? What is it called= viscous?
 
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The first link only deals with thermal clutches, which we don't have.

Not exactly. You just replace the "obsolete thermal spring" with a electronically controlled solenoid valve and add a RPM sensor. Rest of the clutch is the same. It's like asking how a gas engine works and calling out the difference of a TBI injection system vs. the carburetor equipped one I posted. :D BTW the first link at the bottom of the page has EV clutches and the 2nd link PDF is how Spring Thermal Viscus clutches work.

In Summery the Electronic - Viscous, EV, Fan Clutch is merely an update to the old technology. It (can) suffers the same 'morning sickness', running after first startup, that all viscus fan drives suffer from.

Aside of doubling the price for a fan clutch and giving you more things to go wrong it has some real advantages the least being it can tell you when things go wrong.

Problem we have with cooling systems is when you go from light/no load to full power full load on a grade. Say it's a good long grade with a heavy trailer. Thermostat is closed, radiator is cold, and you just dropped the go pedal to Chernobyl full nuclear. Start the timer on ECT runaway until the fan gets on to stabilize the ECT. First the coolant has to heat up enough to start opening the thermostat. Add some temperature overshoot as the thermostat slowly opens up. Now you get some cooling as the radiator gets heatsoaked. Now you have a heat soaked radiator, t-Stat full open and what about the fan?

The Obsolete Spring Thermal fan clutch's thermal spring is just now seeing the hot air to warm up the spring and then a delay as the working fluid gets to the working chamber. Add a long ECT runaway delay time here before the fan gets up to speed. It can take 2 min to get the fan on per the allowed time delay from the EV ones before a code trips.

With the EV fan clutch the computer can start the fan coming on before the radiator is even hot. So when the hot coolant hits the radiator the fan is just starting to come on and further ECT rise is slowed or stopped. In other words it eliminates the spring heat up delay to bring on the fan and stops ECT runaway sooner during the grade climb because the ECM starts the process to get the fan running full speed before the radiator is hot.

This is great for AC systems as your condenser can get hot and the compressor tripping off before the engine warms up. The cold engine radiator actually cools down the hot air coming off the condenser so the thermal spring never sees the hot air and allows the AC system to overheat. EV systems will kick on the fan just for AC cooling - Worth every penny of the $500.00 wire munching EV clutch when it's 120 degrees outside and the AC starts and keeps blowing ice cold without stopping to wait for engine warm up. (Note early EV programming allowed AC systems to overheat and was fixed per a TSB flash update.)

" i have my Touch set on fan rpms, will this be 'actual' speed? As clutch wears, will this be commanded speed or 'real' speed? And what is min/max RPMs?"

Computer commands a % of lockup looking for a desired RPM range biased off engine RPM. The computer does not command a specific RPM - just a duty cycle for the solenoid aka % on. You may be able to see desired RPM from a scan tool, etc. Fan RPM should be actual RPM of the fan. Some (most) fan pulleys are driven faster than the engine RPM due to different size fan and crankshaft pulleys. The computer allows like 2 min for the fan to be within a percentage of the desired RPM before setting a code. This includes time to get over 'morning sickness' and slow down as overspeed of the fan also will set a code. More RPM means faster lockup/unlock due to moving the working fluid in the clutch.

If you have an old clutch the ECM just commands more % on time till the fan is within the desired RPM range. Think of a servo feedback loop. The day you need more cooling and the fan doesn't come up to minimum speed in the long time window you get the code.

Max RPM of the fan varies especially with MPH (ram air) and the ability of the drive belt not to slip at full lockup. Sitting still at 100% lockup and 3000 RPM is different max fan RPM than going down the road at 65 with full lockup.
 
Short said, it is far better to have the fan controlled by water temperatures and Engine load instead of hot air in the past.
 
It's like asking how a gas engine works and calling out the difference of a TBI injection system vs. the carburetor equipped one I posted.

I would say more like asking how a multi-port fuel injection system works and showing a carb diagram :-laf

Great post BTW!!!

I have been looking thru UDC pro and there is some fan tuning available for the 2010+ trucks. I am really hoping there is also fan tuning on the 03-07 5.9's!!
 
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