idler pulley preventive maintenance

[S.Morris]

Have seen a handful of idler pulley bearing failures lately. Bearing is cheap (embarrassingly undersized )and seems to be failing around 150k miles.

Leads to another question. Can the idler on tensioner be removed without removing tensioner it self? Does fan have to be removed? An extra 6"""of front end room would have been nice!

Steve

 

[DennyDay]

Yes you can remove the pully - - BUT - - unless you are a magician and have magic powers, you will have to remove the idler to get at the center bolt - - It really isn't hard to do (remove the whole idler) yes it is tight, but if you remove the air box you will be able to get to it. (I think the '04 and my '06 habe the filter boxup front.

 

[CToney]

I have had no problem on both my dad's truck and my own changing the tensioner pulley. I also changed the idler, non tensioner, on my dads as the bearing had play in it. The replacement had a larger bearing.

 

[CPittman]

You need to distinguish between the idler pulley and the tensioner pulley - your 5. 9 has one of each.



The tensioner pulley part number is Dayco 89094 and available from Geno's for a reasonable price. Here's a link to the part on Geno's. Geno's also sells a new part number that is a whole Gates tensioner assembly. If your truck has 250K miles or more you might consider going this direction.



Changing the tensioner pulley is super easy. Just release the serpentine belt with a 1/2" drive cheater bar from the tensioner pulley then use the same cheater with a short socket to remove the one bolt that holds the tensioner assembly (normal threads in case you're wondering). This is also a good time to go ahead and replace the serpentine belt.



Once it's off it's just one bolt on the tensioner idler; put the new part on and button it back up. If it takes more than an hour you're drinking too much beer.

 

[S.Morris]

Thanks for the input guys... . yes the top idler is easy. Laying under truck looking up tensioner idler looked really tight. Never thought of airbox...

Trying to get my truck in signature and my sons 04,5, 05, onto a maintenance schedule that addresses some of these critical breakdown areas.

The 04,5 ,and 97 are on road/road ready at drop of hat 24/7. The 05 coming online to retire tbe 97 to backup service. My personal 04 lives a pampered life as backup service and rv work in non winter conditions.

Steve

 

[Shadrach]

Because the arm that goes through the pulley on the tensioner can bend, causing it to "throw" a belt, I highly recommend changing the tensioner as an assembly, either Dayco or Cummins, made by Dayco. The idler pulley up top has been upgraded by Cummins if you buy a new one. I did both but then my engine was out so it was real easy. Here is a picture of the front of my 03 engine before I put it back in the truck.



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Shadrach

 

[CPittman]

S. Morris - it is tight but if you use a 1/2" drive breaker bar and a short socket you can do it from underneath without removing the airbox. It really is pretty easy.

 

[rashwor]

I just replaced my complete tensioner assembly the other day at almost 200K miles. I do this every 100K as the first one failed and in turn left me stranded and cost me 500+ at the nearest SA dealer (sorry a##). Cost $40 and a little of my time to prevent. That is math made easy!

 

[Jack in Alaska]

pulley/belt

I just replaced my pulley and the serpentine belt at 91k miles.
It was real easy... ... . I drove into K&C in Casa Grande and said " please change my idler pulley and serpentine belt".
In about 50 min. it was done... easy. :-laf

 

[steved]

I've taken my pulleys off and popped the seals out... added grease to them. I had around 200k before I decided I should actually change them out... got the idler pulley from Geno's and the top guide pulley from Cummins. The tensioner felt fine at 200k.

I have both the originals behind the seat as spares.