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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Injector & Turbo combos

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 53 Block

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Steering issues

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Looking for some suggestions on a problem I have.

I upgraded my stock injectors to Don M's 1. 5's and changed out my Hy9 to a waste gated HX35 w/12 in order to get a little more power while pulling my 12K fiver over some of the mountains between here and Northern Oregon.

I just returned from a long trip up north and my injector / turbo combination fell flat on it's butt! Pulling the Siskyous I was at 27 MPH in 2nd gear @

1200° cresting the summit :( :( (ambient temp was 85°)

With my stock injectors and the little HY I was able to keep it between 45 - 50 MPH @ 1200° pulling this same summit :confused:

I am at a loss as to what happened here? I was able to get about 30 PSI of boost out of the turbo on the way up so I plugged the waste gate on the way home to give me another 2 PSI of boost which didn't help at all.

I know that alot of you tow heavy with a similar setup and are not having this heat problem, what is the secret combination :confused:

I am seriously considering going back to stock with just the EZ box ( which I have had all along )

Any suggestions would be most appreciated

Dave
 
Something sure isn't right...



My 5er setup is only about half the weight of yours, but our truck setup is pretty similar other than transmission. I have seen significant power increase and an overall EGT drop of about 200 degrees with the Rip Rook 4 inch exhaust and Don's 1. 6's.



That's on relatively short local RV trips running up 7-8% grades from 3000 feet to 5000. Power is NO problem.



BUT, the REAL test will be in a few more weeks when we make an RV run from the John Day area over to the Bandon coastal area - several pretty good LONG grades between here and there...
 
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I'm with Gary on this one. I'd check for leaks in your boost side of things. A common one is from the AC sending unit rubbing on lower hose on passanger side. It is a small leak that will show lower top end boost #'s.

You will not see higher boost #'s with the HX turbo, I didn't. You will see lower EXG. temps though. Mike
 
By way of comparison, I just finished a long weekend trip from LV to Southern Utah, up to 8500 ft elevation. This is my first tow since changing from RV275s to F1 Mach 1. 6. All I can say is - more power! I could pull 6th gear a lot longer at lower RPM and then just accelerate. I had no problems maintaining 45-55 speed limits (4th & 5th gears) up 4-8% grades at 7000+ elevation, grossing about 17,500. Engine temps were more of a concern than EGTs, I just had to throttle back as necessary till things cooled back to my comfort level. I think a bigger turbo than my stock HX35 would be better for towing, but towing is a small percent of my overall driving, so I don't have the optimum answer yet, though I'm beginning to consider a bigger intercooler, ala the Banks unit.



In your case, I would expect lower EGTs at the same or slightly higher boost level compared to the HY.



Neil
 
AKAMAC said:
I'm with Gary on this one. I'd check for leaks in your boost side of things. A common one is from the AC sending unit rubbing on lower hose on passanger side. It is a small leak that will show lower top end boost #'s.

You will not see higher boost #'s with the HX turbo, I didn't. You will see lower EXG. temps though. Mike



I have checked all of the boots for leaks, nothing rubbing anywhere and no leaks!

I am seeing higher EGT's with the HX and not able to use the power the 1. 5's provide.

Whats the differnece between the 1. 5's and the 1. 6's?

Dave
 
Gary - K7GLD said:
Something sure isn't right...



My 5er setup is only about half the weight of yours, but our truck setup is pretty similar other than transmission. I have seen significant power increase and an overall EGT drop of about 200 degrees with the Rip Rook 4 inch exhaust and Don's 1. 6's.



That's on relatively short local RV trips running up 7-8% grades from 3000 feet to 5000. Power is NO problem.



BUT, the REAL test will be in a few more weeks when we make an RV run from the John Day area over to the Bandon coastal area - several pretty good LONG grades between here and there...



I have lots of power, recently dynoed at 340Hp and 780 Ft/lbs torque. I just can't use any of it because of the freakin high egt's.

We talked about upping the exhaust side to a 16cm but I am afraid it will turn into a lag pig at lower RPM's. Don has offered to swap my 1. 5's for the 1. 6's, said I should see 50° drop in egt's and a little more power. I don't know if 50° is measurable with these high fallutin gauges I have. May not be worth the effort!

We also talked about sending the turbo to Piers to be modified, If I knew that would solve my problem I would go for it. Just don't want to dump a bucket of money into a problem that can't be fixed!

Dave
 
In your case said:
I could never get my HY past 28 PSI, I can just barely get 32 with the waste gate plugged on the HX.

With the HY and the EZ I could tow my trailer at 45-50 MPH up those grades at 28 PSI and 1200° :confused:

WTF?????





Keep the ideas coming guys, I need some serious help here or I may be driving one of those Power Stroke or Duramaxes that were blowing my freakin doors off pulling that grade! :eek:
 
Ron Allen has a great deal on a used dodgezilla with 14cm wastegated housing, that would take care of your issues, or it should.
 
can you get us a part number off the turbo? Some of the HX35 turbos have a smaller compressor side which might be the problem.
 
Dave, I think a good start is to pressurize the turbo/boost system with a gauge and check for leaks. Just a visual check for Holes, cracks and such is not good enough at this point. Blair and I did it once on my truck.
 
I just installed a 60# boost gauge because I could peg my 30-pounder. I don't like to flog my truck, but I did one WOT burst up a 5% grade (empty) and hit 32psi. I really never want to see the HX35 go past 35 psi because that's just a waste and a hazard.



:D Hey that reminds me, I gotta put my 30lb gauge in the classifieds!
 
What kind of intake are you running? Is the thing getting enough air? Sounds like the fuel is there, or is it? How's the pressure at the VP? When was the last time you changed the fuel filter? Did you fill up for fuel since the component changes? Is it possible that you got a bad batch? Did you tow last on summer or winter fuel?



There's lot's of variables. look for the easy things first. Air in, air out, fuel in, fuel out. Ambient temp can and will have an impact. Ect, ect.



Dave
 
Cliffman said:
Dave, I think a good start is to pressurize the turbo/boost system with a gauge and check for leaks. Just a visual check for Holes, cracks and such is not good enough at this point. Blair and I did it once on my truck.



Cliff, wouldn't I have boost issues all of the time if I had a leak? I can get it right up to 30 PSI empty with no problem???

How do you pressurize the system?

This damn thing has really got me baffled.
 
Bob Wagner said:
Ron Allen has a great deal on a used dodgezilla with 14cm wastegated housing, that would take care of your issues, or it should.



I saw his turbo in the classifieds, I am just hoping to fix this without having to re-fi my freakin house. I already have $1K in turbo and injectors, don't want to dump another $750 into it if I can help it.
 
Fishin Guide said:
What kind of intake are you running? Is the thing getting enough air? Sounds like the fuel is there, or is it? How's the pressure at the VP? When was the last time you changed the fuel filter? Did you fill up for fuel since the component changes? Is it possible that you got a bad batch? Did you tow last on summer or winter fuel?



There's lot's of variables. look for the easy things first. Air in, air out, fuel in, fuel out. Ambient temp can and will have an impact. Ect, ect.



Dave



Dave,

I have the stock intake which I just had powder coated? hummmm, maybe there is a rag or something stuck in there that I didn't see, or Cliffman sabotaged it when he gave it to me! ha ha ;)

I have the FASS and maintain 15 PSI measured from a tee in the fuel line about 8" upstream from the VP44. I just changed the OEM filter ( may FASS is plumbed through the OEM cannister ) before I put on the new isolator, about 2500 miles ago.

As far as fuel goes, I guess it's summer fuel? don't really know. I would think that the fuel would cause a problem all of the time though not just while towing up grades. I'm not experiencing any problems at any other time.

I pulled this grade last year with my HY9 and stock injectors and the ambient temp was over 100°, it was cooler this year at 85° and I lost about 30 MPH pulling the grade with the HX/12 and the 1. 5's?????

Thanks for the ideas Dave
 
McDowra said:
can you get us a part number off the turbo? Some of the HX35 turbos have a smaller compressor side which might be the problem.



The serial number # is 02367116

and the Assembly # is 3539373
 
Don’t think it's the turbo. Turbo makes boost and you're boost #'s are right in line. I'd switch out the injectors back to stock, hookup my 5er and pull a hill and see what you get. I would also like to eliminate the possibility of a bad pyro so let’s check that too Dave.
 
Cliffman said:
Don’t think it's the turbo. Turbo makes boost and you're boost #'s are right in line. I'd switch out the injectors back to stock, hookup my 5er and pull a hill and see what you get. I would also like to eliminate the possibility of a bad pyro so let’s check that too Dave.



I guess Don M is going to ship me out some new injectors to try out. ( thanks Don and Bob, above and beyond the call! )

I guess then I can bolt on a 14 or 16 and see if the lag is to bad down low.

Don't want to go back to stock if I can help it, but seeing as I use the truck primarily for towing my trailer, something has to be done in order for me to use it!

Maybe we can check out the pyro this weekend, I have got to change out my transmission gauge anyhow.

Thanks Cliff

Dave
 
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