Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
Here is a set of general instructions for the installation of a Borgeson steering shaft to replace the OEM shaft/coupling which fails with regularity.....
I believe these are the parts info numbers you need but please confirm them ... J8130157 SEAL SERV KIT 82042
To change the steering shaft, the first thing I did was remove the front wheel. Make sure to turn the front wheels so you have good acess to the roll pin on the steering shaft before you jack
the truck up.
Next, take a pair of vise grips or pliers and pull out the orange plastic piece that is inside the roll pin. If it breaks off, you can use a small diameter punch to drive it out.
To drive the roll pin out, you need to hold a block of steel behind the shaft to absorb the blows from hitting the roll pin. If not there is a chance you could damage the upper set of needle bearings on the stub shaft of the steering gearbox.
A 2 lb. hammer head or a chunk of steel stock will work fine. You just don't want the bearings inside to be taking the force of the blow when driving the roll pin out. I know this from experience as I ruined the oil seal in mine by not supporting the shaft. Anyway, if the roll pin won't drive out one way, turn the shaft and try the other way.
Sometimes when the roll pins are driven in, they flare a bit and it is much easier to drive them out in reverse than on through.
Once the roll pin is out you will have to remove the old shaft at the rag joint. It requires strong arms and a 12 point wrench, 5/16" I think. Then you can take the old shaft out.
Now to tackle the seal. Clean the stub shaft up with a wire brush, emery cloth, and carb cleaner. You can remove the dust seal and snap ring with a small scribe or screwdriver. As for the seal, you may have to drill a small hole on each side of the seal and screw a couple of drywall screws in to help pull it. Take note that the metal "cage" of the seal is darn tough stuff. You should have atleast a couple brand new 1/8" drill bits or maybe even #30 bits. It takes some decent pressure to get the hole drilled thru. If you don't have any drywall screws handy use appropriate diameter wood or selftapping metal screws. Turn them in enough to get a good bite then use a cheater bar or large screwdriver to pry on an alternating basis to "walk" the seal out.
On some, it just takes a small chisel to drive/turn it out.
Once the seal is out, you will have to wait for a small amount of oil to drain out. Once it stops dripping, clean everything up the best you can with carb cleaner. I greased the shaft and put red locktite (optional) on the outside of the seal. The grease will help keep the lip from rolling on the seal and the locktite will keep oil from leaking out around the ouside of the seal.
I used a deep well socket to gently drive the seal in. Then take a small screwdriver and fill the gap between the oil seal and the dust seal with the grease that comes with the two seals. This will help keep any water out. Then the dust seal will drive on/in. I think somewhere in there there is a snap ring, but I can't remeber where it is. You may encounter it somewhere, but it is very easy and self explaining.
When you put the new Borgenson shaft on, make sure the steering wheel is centered before you file the flat spot on the stub shaft flat. I found the best way to center the shaft is to put the wheels on and drive the truck down the drive. You will understand once you try it. Once the shaft and steering wheel is centered, then tighten the set screw to mark the stub shaft. Also mark where the steering shaft goes on so nothing gets out of alighnment. Then you can file/dremel a flat spot on the stub shaft for the set screw to sit on/in.
Also, for the lowest set screw, remove it from the steering shaft and file a flat spot on the steering shaft where the lock nut will set.
Borgenson doesn't do this, and it causes the set screw to stretch and possibly break when the lock nut is being tightened. (Dohhhh!) The flat spot on the steering shaft, gives the lock nut a shoulder to set on. Trust me, been there, done that.
Everything else is pretty straight forward. Good luck and feel free to ask any more questions. It will probably take about 3 hours to do everything. Have fun!
One final note... . if you pack the bearing really full of grease it helps the install. Also, you will likely find that for a while afterward, the excess grease will weep or seep from behind the big retaining nut and make it look like it is leaking again. Be patient and it should eventually stop once the pressure of the excess grease and heating force out the last extra bit.
Mine took a couple weeks to resolve itself. Just wash it down with strong detergent every few days, rinse off and keep driving. Soon or later it will stop weeping and dry up.
BTW, the kit from DC includes the stub shaft seal as well as the seals for the other steering box shaft as well.
The DC dealers in my area no longer do the "repair" since they have about a 50% failure rate on their repairs of leaking seals.
Bob ~ 1st Gen Moderator.
I believe these are the parts info numbers you need but please confirm them ... J8130157 SEAL SERV KIT 82042
To change the steering shaft, the first thing I did was remove the front wheel. Make sure to turn the front wheels so you have good acess to the roll pin on the steering shaft before you jack
the truck up.
Next, take a pair of vise grips or pliers and pull out the orange plastic piece that is inside the roll pin. If it breaks off, you can use a small diameter punch to drive it out.
To drive the roll pin out, you need to hold a block of steel behind the shaft to absorb the blows from hitting the roll pin. If not there is a chance you could damage the upper set of needle bearings on the stub shaft of the steering gearbox.
A 2 lb. hammer head or a chunk of steel stock will work fine. You just don't want the bearings inside to be taking the force of the blow when driving the roll pin out. I know this from experience as I ruined the oil seal in mine by not supporting the shaft. Anyway, if the roll pin won't drive out one way, turn the shaft and try the other way.
Sometimes when the roll pins are driven in, they flare a bit and it is much easier to drive them out in reverse than on through.
Once the roll pin is out you will have to remove the old shaft at the rag joint. It requires strong arms and a 12 point wrench, 5/16" I think. Then you can take the old shaft out.
Now to tackle the seal. Clean the stub shaft up with a wire brush, emery cloth, and carb cleaner. You can remove the dust seal and snap ring with a small scribe or screwdriver. As for the seal, you may have to drill a small hole on each side of the seal and screw a couple of drywall screws in to help pull it. Take note that the metal "cage" of the seal is darn tough stuff. You should have atleast a couple brand new 1/8" drill bits or maybe even #30 bits. It takes some decent pressure to get the hole drilled thru. If you don't have any drywall screws handy use appropriate diameter wood or selftapping metal screws. Turn them in enough to get a good bite then use a cheater bar or large screwdriver to pry on an alternating basis to "walk" the seal out.
On some, it just takes a small chisel to drive/turn it out.
Once the seal is out, you will have to wait for a small amount of oil to drain out. Once it stops dripping, clean everything up the best you can with carb cleaner. I greased the shaft and put red locktite (optional) on the outside of the seal. The grease will help keep the lip from rolling on the seal and the locktite will keep oil from leaking out around the ouside of the seal.
I used a deep well socket to gently drive the seal in. Then take a small screwdriver and fill the gap between the oil seal and the dust seal with the grease that comes with the two seals. This will help keep any water out. Then the dust seal will drive on/in. I think somewhere in there there is a snap ring, but I can't remeber where it is. You may encounter it somewhere, but it is very easy and self explaining.
When you put the new Borgenson shaft on, make sure the steering wheel is centered before you file the flat spot on the stub shaft flat. I found the best way to center the shaft is to put the wheels on and drive the truck down the drive. You will understand once you try it. Once the shaft and steering wheel is centered, then tighten the set screw to mark the stub shaft. Also mark where the steering shaft goes on so nothing gets out of alighnment. Then you can file/dremel a flat spot on the stub shaft for the set screw to sit on/in.
Also, for the lowest set screw, remove it from the steering shaft and file a flat spot on the steering shaft where the lock nut will set.
Borgenson doesn't do this, and it causes the set screw to stretch and possibly break when the lock nut is being tightened. (Dohhhh!) The flat spot on the steering shaft, gives the lock nut a shoulder to set on. Trust me, been there, done that.
Everything else is pretty straight forward. Good luck and feel free to ask any more questions. It will probably take about 3 hours to do everything. Have fun!
One final note... . if you pack the bearing really full of grease it helps the install. Also, you will likely find that for a while afterward, the excess grease will weep or seep from behind the big retaining nut and make it look like it is leaking again. Be patient and it should eventually stop once the pressure of the excess grease and heating force out the last extra bit.
Mine took a couple weeks to resolve itself. Just wash it down with strong detergent every few days, rinse off and keep driving. Soon or later it will stop weeping and dry up.
BTW, the kit from DC includes the stub shaft seal as well as the seals for the other steering box shaft as well.
The DC dealers in my area no longer do the "repair" since they have about a 50% failure rate on their repairs of leaking seals.
Bob ~ 1st Gen Moderator.
