Instrument Cluster and Interior lights

[Bill Littlefield]

I too have had some issues with my 03 where it has done this. I also can feel the truck cut out for a split second when driving. I have chased it and finally sent it to local dealership that I have good faith in. They are about 30mins away they scanned tested and drove and never had a problem. I thought it was more pronounced when the truck was cold, but have noticed it at all times also. Service manager gave me a theory that I am beginning to think might be right. He new the truck wasn't my daily driver and that it sets for a while. He thinks the batteries are drained just a little and that till they are fully charged the system is seeing minor voltage drop which is causing the issues. Truck set for the whole month of January and when I started it and took a 2 hour drive the first 30 mins were awful lots of the cutting out. Parked truck at airport for 5 days and had the same issues when I returned and started home. Drove truck everyday for the next week and never had an issue. Don't know if this helps but something else to look at. By the way I haven't checked my battery cables or my frame grounds.

Interesting. You mentioned that you truck cuts out momentarily when you have a similar issue. My truck does not cut out. Nothing in the motor or outside the cab appears to be affected. Which leads me to believe that your problem and my problem may come from different sources (which sucks). But I'll be posting solutions or problems that I find in hopes that it will help others and I hope you get yours fixed.

 

[Bill Littlefield]

My 03 has a similar problem and has had it for quite a while. I will get a single chime and a single flash of 1 or more of the dash cluster warning lights but it will only do it when the outside ambient temperature is cold enough for the grid heaters to stay on after the truck is running. I have noted that the chime and flash will occur at the same time I hit 20 MPH and the grid heaters are automatically turned off. I am therefore guessing it is caused by a spike or drop in voltage as noted on the battery voltage gauge when he grid heaters shut off. I will be watching this thread to see if anyone has the fix to this annoying problem.

Jim - Makes me wonder if the grid heaters are drawing too much amperage? Anyone know how to test this to confirm if the heaters are drawing what they should? I wonder if a bad or failing grid heater could cause this. .... Mine used to only due this when it was cold. And at first, not only was it only on cold mornings but it only lasted for 3 - 4 chimes. But now, it happens all the time, and it never stops. So whatever was causing it when it was cold has gotten worse. My biggest concern is that if it continues to get worse, then I will lose my dash and other things affected in the cab permanently. In a week I'm going to have to pull a trailer with a tractor on it 5 hours to another state and 5 hours back. Hopefully nothing goes so bad I can't complete the journey.

 

[Bill Littlefield]

After reading the above comments/suggestion and then doing some more research, I think my trucks problems might be coming form a failing ignition switch. At least the accessories function of the switch for now. And if it gets worse, other problems will likely come into play.
So I did some research about replacing the switch and it sounds like once you replace it, the dealer has to program the new one or reprogram you truck to the new one because it is part of the anti-theft system. Sounds like the truck will not start if it is replaced and not reprogrammed. Here are my questions:
1) Is it true that the dealer has to program it for it to work if it is replaced?
2) I confirmed that I can buy a new one from Rockauto. They have a $16 version and a $25 version. Based on their description, I can't be sure this is the part I want or why I would pay the extra for the $25 version. Both have the word "starter" in them and it's not the starter part of the switch that I'm interested in. So if I buy one from Rockauto, am I to take it to the dealer and have them installed it so it can be programmed? Something tells me the dealer will frown on me (or worse) if I bring in a part purchased elsewhere and ask them to install it and program it. I'm also pretty sure they would not warranty any of it if I've supplied the part. I suspect it may just go bad all the way around. However, I'm sure they have a version they will sell me for much, much more $$$. I really am not a fan of the dealer... Help me out here with the best option for success.

 

[Topzide]

@Bill Littlefield, I believe that the security for the keys is the RF box that is located behind rear seat if extended cab or drivers seat if not. I added the factory remote start to my truck and it came with 2 FOBs and RF box with other components for install. I don't think changing the ignition switch needs programming given the fact that some newer trucks have a push button switch. Could be wrong and wish someone with more knowledge will chime in. Dealer switch is $75 - $85 online from Mopar dealers. Don't think a dealer would like you bringing aftermarket part in to be installed. Looking at description on Rockauto, says not key programmable, not sure what that means. Maybe contact a dealer and asked what cost is to replace switch and whats involved. If he doesn't say anything about programming it, then if it was me, I'd get part from RA and install it.

@sag2, Do you know if he can replace switch without needing programming? Thought you might have some insight here. Thanks.

 

[Bill Littlefield]

Anyone know how to disable the chime? It's driving me crazy!

 

[Bill Littlefield]

Short update: Truck has been at dealer for 4 days. I tried to get to the tech directly so I could share what I've already trouble shot. No dice. They told me that "is impossible." (right) The cute little 20 something girl that took my info was adding notes to the file. I was very insistent that I wanted the tech to spend time chasing down the ignition switch and replacing if they felt it "might" help. After one full day and a few hundred dollars, I got the request to authorize more trouble shooting $$ (another $370). It was a text msg and I've still not been able to reach the dealer by phone... The text message had a link to the file and once in there I was able to read all the notes. Wasn't really much there other than they spent the day testing the instrument cluster, all the grounds and power leads and everything works as expected (duh). There was no mention of looking at the ignition switch. No mention that I requested that they look at it. Frustrating. After several texts back and forth I authorized the additional spend. That was 2 1/2 days ago and I've still heard nothing. Last night I put in a request for an update and am waiting to hear "we don't know anything yet." I will update this thread when I get to the bottom of it or even if I don't.

 

[Ozymandias]

You can change everything related to the ignition switch without any programming.
The electric part of it fails often, mine too, and is replaced within half an hour. Cheap.

 

[bighammer]

You can change everything related to the ignition switch without any programming.
The electric part of it fails often, mine too, and is replaced within half an hour. Cheap.

Is the electrical part of the switch separate from the "halo" for the key chip?

 

[Ozymandias]

Is the electrical part of the switch separate from the "halo" for the key chip?

Yes it is, the e -part is on the left side of the steering column, opposite of the lock itself.
So it's actually three parts, the mechanical lock, the e-part and the chip reader.

 

[Bill Littlefield]

Here is a final update. Problem is finally solved. I had the ignition switch assembly changed out by the dealer after waiting months to get an appointment and months longer to get the replacement part ordered in. It did not solve the problem. Mechanics/engineers from the factory were pretty confident that the problem still originates in the instrument cluster. I purchased a used instrument cluster off of eBay from a shop up in Bothell Washington that tests and sells used instrument clusters. I had them program it to my original mileage before shipping it out. I put it in and my problem was solved. However, my two key fobs no longer worked. I was able to go to a local locksmith company and they were able to reprogram my key fobs for a fee. I have been using the truck for a couple of weeks and no more problems at all. The place I purchased the replacement instrument cluster offered to buy my old core for $50. Since Circuit Board Medics could not detect my problem when they had my clusters and were testing it, I'm going to keep it so that no one else gets stuck with a faulty instrument cluster. I may need some LEDs off of it as the replacement instrument cluster I purchased has one burned out where the fuel gauge is located. I can still read it at night but it's not very bright there. Thanks to everyone who had suggestions. I hope this post helps out someone else.

 

[Ozymandias]

Good it's finally solved.
The cluster has ordinary incandescent bulbs in it, no LED, and they are very easy to exchange.
Thanks for keeping the old cluster so nobody else has that problem forwarded.