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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Jacobs brake kit install

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:confused: 2002 H. O. 6 Spd . Just took delivery of a "Jake" kit from HOESLI Diesel. Reading the destructions was easy. Going out to the truck however ,, locating the ECM took some manuvering. The only way I could access it was from the bottom. Am I correct in assuming the Starter will have to come off to get a workable shot at the ECM plug? Anybody thats already poured sweat into this type of install is welcome to give me friendly advice. Thanks in advance to those who lend a hand.
 
Getting to the ECM plug should be easy enough - just pop the fuel filter out of the way. Two bolts and it's dangling free and out of the way.



Actually, with my Jake I got tired of the ECM turning it on when I didn't want it to. So I put a switch on the shifter and wired it to a switched 12V source off the fuse box. The ECM/factory switch is still wired in, but I never use it. If I were to do it all over again I would have just skipped messing with the ECM wire altogether.
 
nps said:
Getting to the ECM plug should be easy enough - just pop the fuel filter out of the way. Two bolts and it's dangling free and out of the way.



Actually, with my Jake I got tired of the ECM turning it on when I didn't want it to. So I put a switch on the shifter and wired it to a switched 12V source off the fuse box. The ECM/factory switch is still wired in, but I never use it. If I were to do it all over again I would have just skipped messing with the ECM wire altogether.

Yup,That's the way I do it too,With the 2 spd shift switch on the shifter,and most people are happiest controlling the whole show.



Bob
 
I did mine myself. Just crawl under there and do it. Less work that way. I did not want mine to be able to engage under throttle, as that might cause problems.
 
WestTN said:
I did not want mine to be able to engage under throttle...
Assuming that you're referring to the ISB Ram in your signature, exactly how did you envision the brake engaging "under throttle"? The ECM controlled exhaust brakes on the 24-valve Rams depend +12 volts at pin #20 of the ECM. The +12 volts is only present when the engine has been in a defueled condition (not "under throttle") for about 1. 5 to 2 seconds or longer.

The only ECM controlled exhaust brake problems I've ever seen on this board have been caused by the solenoid-operated butterfly getting stuck in the closed position. This could happen whether the solenoid were powered via the ECM or some homebrew switching method.

A properly-operating ECM-controlled exhaust can't be on in a fueled condition. An exhaust brake controlled by a hand-actuated switch will be on if the truck operator forgets to turn the switch off before pushing the go pedal.

My vote is to install a switch - shift-lever mounted - in series with the ECM/solenoid circuit. This wiring allows the exhaust brake to be disabled with the right hand on the shift lever. The only objection that I can envision with this method is that some might complain about the 1. 5 to 2 second delay mentioned above.
 
Exhaust brake

I wired mine so that I control it rather then the engine. Just used a fused wire for the relay controls. Fused power for the relays for what ever you need to do!



I made up a stainless steel sheet with 6 holes in it for switches and a 3/4" strain relief connector to hold the sheet S/S with the switch at my finger tip for the brake.
 
Thomas,



he was refering to not using the wire pin in the ECM and just hooking a switch to it... . I went the ECM route as I have found on my thumb actuated switch, sometimes I accidently switch it..... If I had bypassed the ECM, it would have come on a number of times... . by my own doing of course but this is good, so it takes 1 second to engage, so what? I have never regretted it.



Heres my thumb switch



#ad




Heres how I sometimes hit the switch by accident if I am not paying attention to what I am doing



#ad
 
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EricBu12 said:
Thomas,

he was refering to not using the wire pin in the ECM and just hooking a switch to it... .
Possibly - but after reading the original question about removing the starter motor, followed by two replies that basically said leave the starter motor alone and work from the top, I am still wondering what method is described by I did mine myself. Just crawl under there and do it. Less work that way. I did not want mine to be able to engage under throttle, as that might cause problems.
 
Thomas said:
Possibly - but after reading the original question about removing the starter motor, followed by two replies that basically said leave the starter motor alone and work from the top, I am still wondering what method is described by I did mine myself. Just crawl under there and do it. Less work that way. I did not want mine to be able to engage under throttle, as that might cause problems.
Click here , then click Dialectize to read a translation. Maybe it will be clearer then. :-laf
 
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I removed the fuel canister from mine, took the plug off the ECM (after disconnecting the batteries). Used an oxy/acetaline tip cleaner to remove the dummy pin plug, inserted the wire and put everything back together. Never went under the truck except to remove and reinstall the exhaust down pipe. The hardest part was tapping the cig. lighter wire as the lighter receptacle did not want to come out and I did not want to destroy it. After removing the cup holder assembly I spotted the wire, stripped and soldered the EB wire and taped the connection,reinstalled cup holder.



Dave



Dave
 
When I said just crawl under there and do it, I meant do it like the instructions said. Using a manual pushbutton to activate it does not allow the ECM to inhibit activation under throttle. You could activate it at maximum boost and high RPM's. And I believe that would cause problems.
 
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