Let the debate begin!

[RSchwarzli]

I should be putting this in the second gen forum, but it is concening our trucks. Which is a better engine the 12V or 24V. Which is easyer to install in a 1st gen? I see some guys have put 24V's in and others 12V's? I am figuring others have already wighed out these issues so, why did you choose the ones you did? Any thoughs or opinions? Anyone?



Robert

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

12V is lighter (probably 50-75 pounds or so), easier because very few electronics (gauges are run that way). EAsy to get power with the P pump, which is also much more reliable than the VP44 of the 24 valve. Also looks and is more consistent with the 1st gen which came with a 12 valve, just with the smaller VE pump.

 

[Greenleaf]

12.



I have a fleet of each and the 12 is like way better. Trust me when I say this. In the real world/nitty gritty, all jokes aside, the 12 is a workaholick.



The 24 has so many nitpick items that have to be like, "right on" in order to operate (not to mention, start) it is less maintenance free and more apt to "leave one stranded". Been there and done that.



-S

 

[DKasper]

I've had a 24 valve in a '99 and 2 12 valvers in '93s -- so I'm not an expert, but have experienced both.

The 24 valve worked great, it was a little freer revving than the 12 valve and I never had any trouble with it in the 100k that I had it . . . it works great when it works, but when it doesn't, get ready for the headaches.



I like the 12 valve better. The big pointss for me are:

- fewer computer controls -- I've driven a '93 150 miles home with a fried computer -- it still goes!

- easier to work on than the 24

- more control with any "tweaks" you want to make



I'm a big fan on in-line injection pumps -- I've had them on other engines and I seem to have better luck with them than rotaries. But that's just me -- lot's of guys here are real wizards with the VE. For me, I would love a p-pump engine in my '93!



For conversions the 12 valvers seem to be more popular. I'd still like to shoehorn an air-cooled Deutz BF4L913 in my '76 Ford F250 . . .





Dave

 

[JLEONARD]

I don't think there is a debate at all... ...

12V P pump is king.

Jay

 

[tugboatphil]

I've driven my own 12V and also my step dads 97 3500. I like the performance of his better, but talk about no room to work!! It's almost as tight as a fit as a 440 or a 429 used to be. The back half of the block is under the windshield. It would do much better in a 1st Gen.



Having said that, what is a fuel plate that they use in the 2nd Gens? I've seen them on EBay. Where do they go and what do they do?

 

[JLEONARD]

The fuel plate is under the top cover of the P pump. It serves the same function as our "eccentric" fuel pin in that it has a cam that an internal pin rides against to control the fuel going thru the pump and into the injectors.

There are different plates and they can be positioned differently in the pump(they have mounting slots), and they can be "custom" ground/modified like our fuel pins can.

Jay

 

[Greenleaf]

OK Jay,



I still aint found no "top cover" on the P7100 ... ... ... ... ... . ?????



GL

 

[JLEONARD]

aint found no "top cover" on the P7100

Then maybe that's not the official name... . But we changed the plate on my son's truck... .

There's a cover with either 6 or 8 screws that has to be removed. . the fuel plate is under that.

 

[RonA]

There are 4 screws in the AFC housing. Remove it and the plate is underneath held on with 2 screws. My 24 valve has a p-pump. Don't they all come that way?

RonA

 

[Greenleaf]

Now we are getting somewhere....................

... ... ... ..... or so i thought



The AFC cover, yep-er. I'm familiar with that, however... ... ... ... .



How would one go about removing said cover when it's held -on with near "tamper proof" fasteners, HUH!!!??? :{ :{



Cut the head off, then drill and tap out the threads?????? :{ This stinks! The old VE only had a plastic and a pressed tin cover over the gov. settings.



-S



BTW, I'm begining to wonder what the Superintendent will say about the order for seven #11 fuel plates :-laf

 

[RonA]

On mine the top two are torx (spelling) and the bottom two which also hold the fuel shutoff solenoid are 10mm hex. Be very carefull when you lift off the cover, there are 4 small springs with little ball bearings that fly out(just kidding).

Ron

 

[Greenleaf]

Oh, Very Funny

Oo. Thanks Ron I'm nervous enough as is.



GL

 

[RonA]

First time I took mine off I used 1/2 a roll of duct tape and an old sheet to catch anything that fell out.

RonA

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

First time I took mine off I used 1/2 a roll of duct tape and an old sheet to catch anything that fell out.

RonA

ROTFLMAO X 5... ... ... ... ... :-laf :-laf :-laf... yer killin me here Ron... geezzzz...



pastor bob... 12 valve all the way Baby, Yaa... ...

 

[JLEONARD]

Thanks Ron  I'm nervous enough as is

Hey come on. . BUSBOY :-laf :-laf ..... no guts, no glory!!

How's that one..... busboy... not bad eh? :-laf I can stop :-laf at that!

All in fun buddy.

Seriously... easy stuff, just do it. Perform a pumpendectomy

E C Jay

 

[RonA]

It's real easy. Just be sure and take the pressure line off and apply about 1/8of 1 psi vacuum on the line and hold it there when you remove the cover. If you don't have a gauge, you can just suck on it real hard. This serves no earthly purpose, but it's funny as heck to watch. Don't forget the duct tape and sheet.

RonA

 

[RSchwarzli]

Thanks guys. I should have known the answer would be 12V (I am asking it in a forum dedicated to 12V's )Well, I guess it is hands down all out 12V! Oo.





Robert



I wonder what answer I would get in the 24V forum?

 

[RonA]

I'm sure it's easier to do the electrical on the 12 valve. But it is hard to find a 12 valve that doesn't have 150k plus on it. I didn't want an old worn out one so I found a 24 valve with 25k on it. .

RonA

 

[BJMarshall]

"150k plus = old and worn out" Mine is about to hit 300k and it just quit using oil. I guess it is finally broken in.