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Lift pump and tire question

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Rear Axle Noise-advise needed

brake rattle

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I have two questions,I'm getting ready to install my new AirDog system and want to know if I should use the wiring from the old lift pump(which I'm removing) to power the new lift pump? I plan on keeping the OEM filter/heater and tie into it.

My second question is... . I need new tires and will be doing the BJ's and the free wheel hubs. I'd like to go with a larger tire to try and get a bit more out of a tank of fuel,and my thought is if the engine is turning at a slower RPM on the HWY,I should get a tad better mileage,or am I confused again? Plus I no longer tow heavy. How tall of a tire can I go with a '03 3500 4x4 DRW quad cab?

Thanks in advance-Casey
 
The large tires will give you some gearing benefit, but it may be eaten up by their higher rolling resistance and aerodynamic profile. An aftermarket turbo and manifold will give you more FE benefit than any tire change- as will the free spin hubs.
 
I have run BFG 285's and got 54K out of them. I have a set of Goodyear Silent Armor 285's on now and they are about to turn over 50K. No problems with excessive wear on either set. You probably don't want to go much bigger than 285's or 305's with the stock rims and front suspension. With a leveling kit and wider rims you could go bigger on your tires if you want.
 
I have two questions,I'm getting ready to install my new AirDog system and want to know if I should use the wiring from the old lift pump(which I'm removing) to power the new lift pump? I plan on keeping the OEM filter/heater and tie into it.



This is what I did, except I used a Walbro. Richard at Glacier Diesel Power, has a ready made harness and relay, that plugs into the stock connector, that allows you to utilize the canister heater, everything except the pump remains OEM.
 
This is what I did, except I used a Walbro. Richard at Glacier Diesel Power, has a ready made harness and relay, that plugs into the stock connector, that allows you to utilize the canister heater, everything except the pump remains OEM.



Thanks for the referral to Glacier Diesel,I'll order tomorrow. Thanks to everyone for the help. Happy Holidays!
 
As far as tires go, I just bought a set of Goodyear Duratracs in 315-70R17. I had them studded too. So far I am very happy with them. I've run this size tire on my truck for years and they fit just fine and the truck loves them as far as power and speed. I've run the BFG All-Terrains and Firestone Destitution MTs in the same size too. All on the Hummer H2 rims.

I just put a new lift pump on my truck at 152,000 miles. Luckily I just ordered one from Geno's to have for a spare last month. Changed it in an hour and a half with a 5mm allen socket and 4 small hose clamps.

Blake
 
I had BFG 315/70/17 on my truck when I bought it. Looked really tough and fit perfectly since it had a 2" leveling kit. I switched to 285/70/17 Nitto DuraGrapplers and they are just a tad wider and taller than stock size, so they fill the wheel well nicely. My wife says I "de-balled" the truck when I went with the smaller tires...
 
my understanding of the free spin hubs is that it would take over a million miles to even come remotely close to getting your money back in fuel savings.



I don't know about a million miles... but it would take a while to recoup your investment in fuel alone. Most will say that you can save on hub bearings, also. So maybe they would pay for themselves sooner. I will consider them when my bearings need replacement simply for the ability to use 2WD Lo. I actually could use that quite a bit, since I have to back heavy trailers into unbelievably tight spaces, and 4 Lo binds up the truck while trying to turn. But I'm probably the minority.
 
Keep in mind also that you're not wearing out front u-joints, drive shaft, or transfer case chain. Let's say you went 1M miles @ 20 MPG, that would equal 50,000 gallons of fuel @ $4. 00/gallon, you're looking at $200,000 in fuel. Make the safe assumption that the DT saves you 5% in fuel cost, that's $10,000. The kit would pay for itself in 200K miles just on fuel savings alone. Add the other factors and the payback is accelerated to well under 200K miles.
 
I finally broke down and ordered the Dynatrac free spin kit as well as new XRF ball joints. I wanted to go with Carli joints but couldn't afford both. I've known the ball joints were hosed for a while now and noticed noise coming from the drivers side hub area making turns. I hate doing things twice,hopefully the XRF joints will go 100K miles before going bad.
 
Retired, when you mention a noise coming from the drivers side hub area, is that the symptoms of a bad hub? Or would that be the u-joints? I would think u-joints, but am not sure.
 
Looks like you're truck is a dually. Don't think you can run 315's on a dually because of tire width.

Don't do all that work without replacing the axle u-joints. Nevermind. I just realized they have to be changed when you change the stub shaft.
 
Retired, when you mention a noise coming from the drivers side hub area, is that the symptoms of a bad hub? Or would that be the u-joints? I would think u-joints, but am not sure.



I believe its the hub making the noise,my u joints still feel OK,but will replace the u joints,along with the ball joints when I install the free wheel hubs that I ordered. With all the crap the State puts down to melt the snow and ice I'm surprised every moving steering/suspension parts isn't rusted out and falling out. I thought about drilling and tapping a zert in the hub to see if it quiets down. The SpynTec hubs kept calling me in the middle of the night:-laf and had to place my order. Plus with all the rusted goodies I'm not sure the old hubs would hold together when removing.
 
315s will require a dually spacer in the rear, or custom rims. 265 is the largest you can run without rubbing excessively on stock wheels..... I'll try to get some pics up tomorrow.
 
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