Here I am

Lift Pump failure-Check yours

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Phoenix Dealer story - 1 Bad, 1 Good

Gauge Kits

Status
Not open for further replies.
There is a new thread about transfer pumps going bad on 2000-2001's. Also CAT uses sensors to measure fuel pressure before the filter, and after the filter. That is standard on all "B" series engines. That is some valuable information to have. Rig something up if you can for this. You might be money ahead in the long run.

------------------
2000 2500 Red Sport quad cab, 4x4, K&N, muffler removed, mean looking set of 33. 5" tires! Semper Fi!

1972 340 Cuda'. Original tripple black 340 car w/air! 100% stock... with the exception of that NHRA I/SA motor and those 30x9's on Weld Prostars. Bombs away!
 
I found this link at Lemonaidcars.com. It may help with unsolved warranty problems and "good will" repairs, lift pumps ect. Looks like a nice find.


1. Chrysler Owner Review Committee

RAR17@chrysler.com

Set up in 1998, this Review Committee is still paying off customer claims that had been refused when presented through Chrysler's regular channels. I wish F**D had the good sense to create a similar mechanism for its aggrieved customers. No, you won’t read about Chrysler's newest consumer complaint committee in your owner’s manual or see it touted anywhere at your local dealership. Chrysler’s Review Committee was set up in February 1998 in response to the bad publicity and threats of court action coming from Lemon-Aid and about six hundred Chrysler owners who helped form Chrysler Lemon Owners Groups (CLOG) in British Columbia and New Brunswick. These groups submitted the names of irate owners to Chrysler and have succeeded in getting sizeable refunds for brake, transmission, and paint repairs. If you have had any of these problems and want "goodwill" repairs or a refund for repairs already carried out, go through Chrysler’s regular customer relations hot line. If you’re not satisfied by the response you get, phone, fax, or email Mr. Larry Latta, Vice President Sales and Marketing, or Lou Spadotto National Service Manager, Parts, Service, and Engineering at: 519-973-2300; fax: 519-561-7005; email: RAR17@chrysler.com. They use the Review Committee to take a hard look at all claims, including those that were previously rejected. Up to now, I can say the Committee has treated most consumer complaints diligently and professionally. Three suggestions if you plan to contact the Review Committee: send Chrysler copies of all your repair bills or independent garage estimates, don’t accept a refusal based on the fact that you’re not the first owner, and finally, don’t let Chrysler turn your claim down because the repairs were carried out by an independent repair facility. If you wish to contact CLOG (B. C. ), call Patricia Wong at Tel. 604-657-2298, Fax 604-255-1831; Email underdog@Lynx. bc. ca.




See it all here:

http://www.lemonaidcars.com/gripe_sites.htm



[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 03-24-2000). ]
 
Hi all,

I finally got my new lift pump installed; it took 3 ½ weeks to get the part (in stock and on the shelf) to get to me only 430 miles away. The Cummins parts distributor in Anchorage needs help. After installing the new pump my pressure is now 13 psi at idle and it starts better when cold, it acted to lean at startup sometimes dying on initial start.

I took the pump apart to see if it could be repaired and what I found doesn’t make sense. There was a ball bearing jammed in the input (suction) side of the pump where the screen is, not sure were it came from but after I take it completely apart (motor section) maybe it will become apparent then.


------------------
99 2500 QC/LB 4X4, ProTorque TC, BD Valve Body,
TST 275hp injectors, PowerMax1 & VA CPC.
60 Gal. Aerotank, Geno's Combo Gage, Espar Heater,
HX40 Turbo ordered
 
Just for info, I had a lift pump on my tractor go bad and the dealer wanted $250 for a new one. It was mechanical, which is nice for priming the system and bleeding air, but you can also acomplish with an electric. Anyway what I did was buy on of those universal fuel pumps $22 at Autozone and bypassed the lift pump. These little pumps come in various pressures and seem to work fine with some type of pulsing diaphram system, at least for a tractor. It was several years ago and still working fine. Not sure how it would work on the cummins though. I'd rather spend the $500 on something a little more fun.

------------------
-----------------
01 2500 QC LB ETH DEE 4x4 3. 54 LSD SLT TOW Fog
 
If you have the prime-loc fuel filter system installed, they have two ports on the fuel head to check pressure. One before the filter and one after the filter. You can screw in your sensors or two gauges. You can pickup a gauge for 12. 00 from McMaster-Carr.

------------------
Eric Pitts
2001 Properly Valved 2500 Qcab 4X4 auto 4. 10 LSD Prime-Loc
Weston Nerf Bars Smith built brush guard
Command Remote Starter
Neophyte B. O. M. B. er
Terre Haute Indiana
The Pitts Home Page

Member GLTDR
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I had a problem with my dealer when my fuel shutoff solenoid failed on my truck at 37,000miles. It is not covered under 100k warranty. My truck had to be towed about 80 miles with a bill of $300. Repair was around $300. I didn't think it was right that a part like this should fail so early. Understand that there is a written warranty, and an implied warranty for our trucks. By selling us a truck, they are saying that it should run for quite some time. And if it doesn't, they are responsible.

I wrote a letter/statement saying all this and took it to the Dodge dealer and asked the service manager to sign it, so I could send it to DC through arbitration. At this point, the service manager started acting real weird and took me to the owner. 5 minutes later I was reimbursed for towing and the fix. A little under $600.

Let them know that you are serious, and that you can not be turned away that easy. Hope this helps.
Jack

------------------
1997 4x4, 3. 54 rear, 5 spd, red, vinyl floors.
Banks Stinger Plus, BD 4" cat back (minus muffler), K&N SCOTTY Style, Delvac 1, Lund cold front, Shelf-it overhead storage system, CB mounted overhead like the BIG rigs!

Pull Trailswest 2 horse slant, 1972 8' Bell slide in camper (heavy son of a gun), Sylvan 1750 jon with 60/45 Merc. Jet prop, and one great hunting Black Lab

Check out my pics: http://communities. msn.com/BigRedDodge


12 VALVES!!!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hey guys, there is a TSB for this problem on engines between the serial numbers of 56662576 to 56671920. Look on Fritz'z ram page for it. there is alink under TSB in TDR. I think the TSB # is sa00-11. My engine falls between the serial numbers. I braought is back have a little over 8000 miles on it, they said they couldn't replace it unless it was giving me trouble. I guess i can't blame them but they know this batch is bad why not just raplace it. Anyway thought i would let you guys know #ad




------------------
2000 4*4, 5spd, 3:54, QC, 8foot bed,SLT, Flame REd, Duraliner Bedliner,Tow package, Camper Package, Diamond plating on bed rails, 10 disc sony cd changer,
 
junior , go back to the dealer and tell them to re read the service action , is this the dealer you bought from ? the service action TELLS them to REPLACE the pump whether you have a problem or NOT , i had mine done yesterday ,at first they asked if i had a problem and i said "i'm not sure but the SA said to do it anyway" , i think there was a problem it starts quicker and seems a little snappier at low speed ,
 
I went to the Dealer I bought my truck from and asked about the service action. They looked at me as if I just landed from a far away Galixy. I gave them the service action number 00-11. They said that the number is not a DC sequence and asked where I got it. I told them the internet. Their reaction was that the internet reminden them of a bunch of old ladies with nothing better to do. What a statement in todays world. I have E-Mailed them the service action from Fritz's web site and asked them to have someone from the service dept call me. We shall see.

Barry Horner
Lake Forest
Orange County, Ca

2001, SLT+, ETH, 6 speed, White quad cab, short bed, Sport, 2wd , 3:54 anti spin, Camper Special with trailer tow, 16x8 Forged Aluminum with 265x75 tires, Fog lights, Audio controls steering wheel mounted, AM/FM cassette with CD, Travel Convenience group, Keyless entry with remote, Leather agate heated seats. Line-X bed liner.
 
barry , i get the same response from the dealerships , they just hate it that the customer knows MORE than they do , the monkey service writer knows NOTHING about the servicee action till they get a couple to come thru , i had to actually talk to service managers , one in jims dealer in pa , SHE was very helpful even though i didn't buy from there or plan on going there for repair , i'm in Mass. , they are in PA. once i finally talked to my service manager , and he looked into it , he called me back and said that he just passed it on to the foreman and the foremen cubby holed it , after some checking they found out mine was the ONLY truck they sold that fell into this series of numbers , just my luck ... does yours fall into this range ???
 
Mopar

Sure does. My luck is holding. I could fall innto a bucket of t--s and come up sucking my thumb.

Barry Horner
Lake Forest
Orange County, Ca

2001, SLT+, ETH, 6 speed, White quad cab, short bed, Sport, 2wd , 3:54 anti spin, Camper Special with trailer tow, 16x8 Forged Aluminum with 265x75 tires, Fog lights, Audio controls steering wheel mounted, AM/FM cassette with CD, Travel Convenience group, Keyless entry with remote, Leather agate heated seats. Line-X bed liner.
 
I just finished installing a Stewart warner fuel pressure gauge with two sensors (before and after the filter) and found out that my lift pump is dead too! It doesn't fall into the TSB either - Doc Tinker is picking up a lift pump for me tomorrow and I'll be installing it either sometime during the day Saturday - at the Hell rally - or Sunday morning. Mine is putting out 7 psi at idle and driving down the road it hits 0!!!!!!! I'll post pictures and details of the install as soon as I get a chance. CHECK YOUR LIFT PUMPS!!!!!


------------------
-Steve St. Laurent - President of the Great Lakes TDR, Chapter Forums Moderator
'98 Quad Cab Long Bed (CMNSPWR), 4x4, ISB, 5sp, 4. 10 LSD, Prime-loc remote fuel filter, boost & pyro gauges, TST Powermax, muffler eliminator, 5" chrome tip, BD Exhaust Brake, Isspro turbo temp monitor, Permatech spray in liner, Grizzly stainless nerf bars, Stull SS grill & bumper inserts, Front Draw-Tite receiver, BFG 285/75R16 AT KO's
 
Here's the link to Fritz's Page describing the TSB for the lift pump.
http://www.ecpe.vt.edu/~dfritz/technical/TSB00/Sa_00-11.htm

I had mine replaced a couple weeks ago under the recall without any guff from the dealer. Frankly, I can't tell any difference in how it runs (had 12,000 miles on the original one). The pressure gauges sound well worthwile. Guess I'll be installing one too.

------------------
2000,4x,qc,6sp,3. 54,285/75r16 bfg/at's,Van Aaken cpc, DD Boost Module, Elbow, popup cmpr, 9000 lbs,14. 5-16. 5 mpg, WB6BFD for ID. Whats next, DD1's or 2's?? Now thats a tuffy!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Where do you get a tester? How much do they cost? Do they screw into the top of the fuel filter housing where the plugs are? Help! I'm worried that BOMBs may have revealed an impotent lift pump and I don't want to lose my VP44.

------------------
99 3500 QC 4X4 5sp 3. 54 K&N air filter, DiPricol gauges, 275 hp injectors, Pacbrake, Westin nerfs, GN hitch, Tekonsha Brake controller, Mopar seat covers, Husky mats, silencer ring removed, Draw-tite front receiver
 
<font color=blue>Yes can someone please explain how to test this and a step by step method? And what tools and or gauges are needed to test this. My curiousity is up... . and well... you know curiousity killed the cat #ad


Plus bored, bored at work... so get some posts going here!

This simple test procedure seems very important so someone please take the time to enlighten us all.
 
Okay the testing procedure for fuel prssure. This is a condensed version of what is in the 2000 repair manual. I think the fitting to hook up the gauge is a banjo fitting (that's what I've always reffered to them as sorry if that's the wrong name) my fuel pressure gauge I got seems to fit the connectors but I haven't preformned the tests yet.


1 On the fuel filter there is a banjo fitting clean area around it and remove protective cap.

2 Use specail fuel test gauge 6828 (the same one used for gassers from what I can tell it seems to be a standard banjo fitting).

3 to prevent engine from starting remove fuel system relay

4 using key crank engine while watching gauge prssure should be 5-7psi.

5 re-install fuel system relay

6 start engine and check pressure it should be a minimum of 10psi at idle.

7 because fuel system relay was removed a trouble code may have been set remove code using scan tool

Pressure drop test

8 shut engine off attach pressure gauge to outlet port (it is on the inlet to the injection pump) start engine and check fuel pressure. Fuel pressure should not be more than 5psi lower than inlet pressure if it is replace fuel filter.


Is there any way to remove the codes without the scan tool? Thanks.

[This message has been edited by kaffine krazed (edited 06-24-2000). ]
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top