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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Lift pump ?

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Those of you that have replaced you lift pumps, what problems were you having prior to that that lead you to replace them? Reason I ask it that recently I've noticed my truck cranks a little longer before starting. If it's not the fuel system then maybe 'cuz it's so hot here and some of the fuel in the line evaporates?



Any ideas?



Thanks
 
Slowneasy,



Before I replaced my lift pump, I had absolutely no symptoms that anything was wrong! A friend checked my fuel pressure and there was none. I have since purchased a fuel pressure gauge from Briar.



Good Luck!

Paul
 
Originally posted by MN Cummins Lvr

Slowneasy,



Before I replaced my lift pump, I had absolutely no symptoms that anything was wrong! A friend checked my fuel pressure and there was none. I have since purchased a fuel pressure gauge from Briar.



Good Luck!

Paul



Just like Paul, mine showed "NO" symptoms. I just read about the problem on the TDR and bought one of Briar's FP gauges. When I checked I had zero psi's. Now I check it every 2 weeks with Briars gauge. I am to lazy and cheap to install a perm. gauge. Briars only take a couple of minutes to use and know if yur OK. Plus at the time I think his was only $45 for the whole setup. Quality piece of equipment.
 
I had symptoms. My truck started to cut in and out for about a day or two then one day it just wouldnt start again.
 
I had no symptoms either, other than my guage saying '0' and flasing. Dealer told me the truck would not run without the transfer pump working. He climbed up on the fender, reached down to feel of the pump while another guy bumped the starter, said he could 'feel' the pump running so it had to be working.

Ron
 
What's Considered low

Hi Guys,

I have Briar Hopper's guage and was testing a friend's '99 RAM. What pressures were considered low ? He was reading 11 at idle, 7-8 cruising, and 6 at WOT.



He has the extended warranty, so he'll need to know what pressure DC will consider low.



Thanks,

--Phil
 
Those numbers look pretty good, the 6 PSI at WOT is close. However, given the specs on the gauge which could lead the reading to be off 1-2 PSI give or take, there might be a bit of a fight on his hands if he tried to get the dealer to respond. Mine were 7/0/0 when mine was changed. Bears watching is all, IMHO.

A permanent gauge would be mighty helpful to watch if the performance deteriorates so he's ahead of the curve if it drops any further at WOT.



From what we've been hearing, the dealer's STAR hotline is telling them anything below 8 PSI at any throttle position is the benchmark, if memory serves.



You'll know it's dead-dead when your numbers are like mine above. Until then there can and usually is a deteriorating curve where the numbers steadily decline until dead-dead is reached.



Hope that helps... .





zman
 
Originally posted by Bob Wagner

minimum pressure is 8psi at WOT



anything under should be covered under warranty



The warranty game is another bunch of crap that the dealers try and screw with you on. It should be covered under the 5 year 100K warranty. It is part of the fuel system, that is what is stated in the DC service manual. It is also attached to the engine. Some of the dealers try to cover it under the 7 year 70K emissons warranty. Others are so screwed up that they try and claim that it is only covered under the 3 year 36K warranty. You think DC ever sends any of these service writers and service managers to training?
 
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