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Load Trail Gooseneck Dump Time.

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Lithium rv trailer battery

Tire Load Range Ratings

One way, a little work, would be to section the cross pivot tube and slide the assist spring on, then weld the tube back in... I'll try to remember to take a picture of my ramps tonight but they are just torsion springs on the pivot tube that lay under the ramp and against the back of the trailer

Yes, that appears where they need to be. That will be more than I can tackle. Not sure why that pin is welded solid. The bottom hinge pin is removeable but don't appear they will work there. The spring would interfere with sliding the ramps. They still might work there and help some. It seems like the angles would be off.

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The spring would interfere with sliding the ramps.

I forgot to take a picture, but promise I will tonight... My ramps slide and the spring is on that pin, they slide just fine if you have enough room, Mine only have one spring and don't slide that far.
 
Started on the deck, 2x8 rough cut. Not being a very good wood person, I did the math wrong and kind of had a issue in fitment. Using an inside deck width of 89" and (11) 8" boards at 88" I started the install. Well, it turns out they measure 7.5" to 8.25 in width, dang it. A little late but I spread them all out so I could pick and choose the right board for the location, it will still turn out pretty good.

Ordered (3) 50 count boxes of self threading/lubricated deck screws, not enough, so I had to order more. I have enough I can cut/fit the full deck and just place a few screws to hold it, then finish when they come in.

While I am waiting, I can work on the leaking oil bath hub caps, they have made a mess over the years. Also, ordered 6 D-rings to mount over the fender area, nothing to tie to there. I left a gap on the first outer board to access the outer rail and crossmembers for hold downs.

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@NIsaacs, Around here, when you ask for rough cut lumber, you get true dimensional lumber( 2 x 8). Not the dimensional size of 7.5 x 1.5! I guess it all matters on who runs the sawmill! I prefer to use the Amish mills for that type of need. For the way that you'll be using the trailer, that spacing will be fine. It's an equipment trailer, not a material trailer (sand,gravel or the such). You've got a trailer for that! :cool:
 
The sealer needs to be applied where the rot will start as in the edges. If you are in a really dry environment not really needed to do anything.

LOOKS GOOD!!!

WOW, I have not seen Olympic for many years. I always liked it.
 
Were originals rusted and ground flush or could you back them out?

They all unscrewed or broke flush, with the top of the cross members. The torx was in great shape, no striping at all. Some were plugged up with sand and you had to clean them out with a small screw driver and blow them clean.
 
@NIsaacs, Nice JOB! :D Gonna be hard to watch that one go down the road.:oops:


Thanks! It is hard to part with, it is a fine trailer. But it will pay for the stock trailer that I want to keep. I also replaced two bearing sets and all 4 seals. Don't buy them at Napa, $168 for 4. I can buy them all day long, on line, for $24 each. On oil bath, I use the high grade seals, the one on the right, the other two are economy and standard grade. Some old stock I had on the shelf, they are okay for grease hubs. Disregard that number on the bottom box, it was wrong. I needed BR25520, they didn't have it, so I had them order it, it came in as a Timken.

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